Yes, I was going to do that, then I thought about PSU problems etc and decided against it. I'm using high-quality sockets though.
Update to all following...
Warning! In Front Panel Designer, if you place studs/standoffs be sure to ask for them to be pressed in especially if you intend for them to be grounding points. I didn't know about this and now I am in conversation with Schaeffer about what to do. 😡 They make no mention of this on their website (I'm not sure about Front Panel Express in the USA), and mine were glued in... resulting in about 10Mohms of insulation!
Here's hoping something can be done...
Dave.
Warning! In Front Panel Designer, if you place studs/standoffs be sure to ask for them to be pressed in especially if you intend for them to be grounding points. I didn't know about this and now I am in conversation with Schaeffer about what to do. 😡 They make no mention of this on their website (I'm not sure about Front Panel Express in the USA), and mine were glued in... resulting in about 10Mohms of insulation!
Here's hoping something can be done...
Dave.
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You can always solder them into the sockets at a later stage.
(I assembled Mr Self's OpAmplifiers without sockets, saved time and plenty socket cash)
(I assembled Mr Self's OpAmplifiers without sockets, saved time and plenty socket cash)
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Still Here...
Well, after a few discussions with Schaeffer about my panels, they decided to machine all the panels with studs again... for free! I should receive the new panels in a couple of days.
As for the IC sockets, I'm quite sure that they will have a negligible effect on the sound quality. I am using high-quality types with gold leaf contacts. Sure, they were quite expensive but, considering the overall cost, they don't make much of a difference.
The feet are being turned up by a local company and I expect that they'll also turn a few heads. Photos will come soon...
Dave.
Well, after a few discussions with Schaeffer about my panels, they decided to machine all the panels with studs again... for free! I should receive the new panels in a couple of days.
As for the IC sockets, I'm quite sure that they will have a negligible effect on the sound quality. I am using high-quality types with gold leaf contacts. Sure, they were quite expensive but, considering the overall cost, they don't make much of a difference.
The feet are being turned up by a local company and I expect that they'll also turn a few heads. Photos will come soon...
Dave.
Hi Dennis,
No, no progress... I've been ill lately - some sort of chest infection 🙁 Also, my wife has to return to China to visit her father (the guy I'm making this for) as he is also sick!
Well, actually, now I think of it there was a minor bit of progress - the feet have been machined and fitted. I have to order the acrylic discs to go in the bottom of them.
As for the Schaffer panels, I received the new ones and they were a disaster! Some of the studs were still glued in and the glue is rubbish - the studs come out easily. If your using them, ask for them to be pressed in. I managed to sort it all out though and the pre-amp still looks good and is now safely earthed. When I am fully recovered I will wire-up!
Cheers,
Dave.
Wishing you and your family a speedy recovery. I look forward to following your project when you are better.
I just re-read the 3 part Elector article in preparation for my future project build.
I just re-read the 3 part Elector article in preparation for my future project build.
Dennis,
Good luck with the build... I have some spare 2SA1085 if you need them - they're quite hard to find. I bought mine in Germany. Also, if you want the blue effect, use my parts list as a guide... I always double solder the parts; first on the underside and then on the component side, unless it's a boxed cap or chip holder. If you use chip holders, don't scrimp - get the good quality ones 😉 If you need any tips for chassis design, i'm always happy to help a fellow builder 🙂
Cheers,
Dave.
Hi HeliMan
Great job....
Some time ago I decided to try the phono stage, I m going to compare it with my ProJect phono stage.How does it sound? The design itself is quite promissing.
I have PSU assembled, just started to fight with phono board and it worries me a litte bit. Do I need any other PCB used in this pre to run phono section?
Tomas.
Great job....
Some time ago I decided to try the phono stage, I m going to compare it with my ProJect phono stage.How does it sound? The design itself is quite promissing.
I have PSU assembled, just started to fight with phono board and it worries me a litte bit. Do I need any other PCB used in this pre to run phono section?
Tomas.
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Hi Tomas, and everyone else who was following 😉
I know I have been absent for quite some time, but I am able to start working on this preamp again now... I have ordered the rear panel and I have finished designing the top inner perspex panel, but I can't order that until next month (funds are a bit low at the moment 😀). I will publish more photos and tell you all how it sounds soon.
Now, to Tomas' questions: Don't fight with any of the boards - you can do a lot of damage that way! Ha ha ha! The phono PCB was easy to construct - just take your time and don't rush anything. I have also built 2 of the input PCBs, but if you're just wanting to test the phono stage you dont have to have them. Make sure that you use polysyrene caps where indicated. I used all 1% metal film resistors too. I found the 2SA1085 transistors hard to find, but I have some spare if you need them. Just connect the inputs to the phono PCB to cinch sockets via a small piece of screened cable. If your turntable has a moving magnet cartridge, connect to 'MM', else connect to 'MC'. Connect +Vre on K3 to +15V, wire a switch between the MM/MC pin on K3 and ground. When the switch is closed the MC input is active. Ignore the IEC pin on K3 for the moment.Connect the outputs to a preamp line-in stage. Let me know how you get on...
Cheers,
Dave.
My project in progress at the moment...
I have just assembled PSU for this pre and something strange..when measured output voltage is not as symmetrical as it should (should it?). PSU alone with no load. The miltimeter shows something 15.8-0-16.4V. Anybody had the same problem?
I have just assembled PSU for this pre and something strange..when measured output voltage is not as symmetrical as it should (should it?). PSU alone with no load. The miltimeter shows something 15.8-0-16.4V. Anybody had the same problem?
Can someone explain to me briefly what the log-law level LED does (I don't have the Eleketor article)? Does it flash according to level, or something?
I asked the same question a couple years back when I was finishing up my build. Read posts #55 and #56 here. Enjoy.
Rick
Hmm, that doesn't really answer my question. I mean, is the LED meant to flash at a visible rate? Or is it supped to 'glow' brighter and brighter as the signal level increases? I'm having trouble seeing how it is supposed to do either, as it is driven by a plain-jane peak-detector and comparator 😕
Hi Everyone!
I'm still alive! Ha ha! But we're now in the process of buying a new house so work on anything else has stopped completely. I do have a rear panel now though, photos to be added tonight....
Also, I have begun to model it in Sketchup... I may post some files for this if anyone is interested. Sketchup allows me to see if all the parts will fit OK.
Dave.
I'm still alive! Ha ha! But we're now in the process of buying a new house so work on anything else has stopped completely. I do have a rear panel now though, photos to be added tonight....
Also, I have begun to model it in Sketchup... I may post some files for this if anyone is interested. Sketchup allows me to see if all the parts will fit OK.
Dave.
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