Tribolectric? Back in the day less resistance was more desirable. That usually decreases with cross sectional area increasing. Twisting insulated wires will make capacitors and inductors. I would expect that would be worse than just straight resistance given their non linear frequency response. Effectively making filter circuits.
SY can you adapt a normal tube phone for balanced input. My preamp is the SRPP design from EleKtor. 15 years and going strong!!
SY can you adapt a normal tube phone for balanced input. My preamp is the SRPP design from EleKtor. 15 years and going strong!!
Yes, that's it exactly. And yes, less resistance is more desirable, with this being significant for low R cartridges having low output voltages.
Adapting an older preamp to balanced (and jlsem, yes, "balanced," not just ungrounded) is not a trivial exercise, I'm afraid. That's one major reason I just chucked my old phono stage, built a new one, and made new cabling for my turntable. The disadvantage is that I can't interchange components with most people- I think that EC8010 and perhaps two other people would have systems compatible with mine.
Ever see a dynamic mic with a center tap voice coil? Nope, doesn't need it. As long as the signal is differential it's balanced. Ground is not referenced in the signal.
In fact, the signal going to speakers out of a bridged amp is "balanced". The negative terminal is not connected to ground. My little BTL class-d amps work that way. So could a tube amp, is the secondary of the transformer is not tied to ground. But there isn't much advantage in a speaker level signal being balanced. Mic and phono, yes.
In fact, the signal going to speakers out of a bridged amp is "balanced". The negative terminal is not connected to ground. My little BTL class-d amps work that way. So could a tube amp, is the secondary of the transformer is not tied to ground. But there isn't much advantage in a speaker level signal being balanced. Mic and phono, yes.
LOL Quite right! (sometimes you really do have to bang it home, or it gets lost in the noise)
There was mention, but you do well to mention it again, and at further length. Thanks. (see my last sentence above)
Neither do I. But you do get a balanced signal. And in fact, a connection to ground with a center tap (either on the source end or the load end) will be detrimental to low noise transmission.
So how 'bout a nice litz wire and no jacketing?
1n34a.com has some 20/44 litz (31 gauge equivalent) with a single nylon serve. The only drawback is you really should use a good solder pot when dealing with litz wire.
se
Balanced means just what pooge said it means.
Just because there isn't a fixed ground doesn't mean it's not balanced.
se
Steve,
I've seen you reference that wire for tonearms before, do you know anyone who has used it or compared it to Cardas 33ga. ? Most other web forums on the "Net" seems to think that Cardas litz is the standard for copper. Just trying to bring this thread back to terms most of us less informed folks can comprehend. F5 is alive and doing well! Thanks!!!
So,
Sy, what wire is in your tonearms now, and why?
Ron
I've seen you reference that wire for tonearms before, do you know anyone who has used it or compared it to Cardas 33ga. ? Most other web forums on the "Net" seems to think that Cardas litz is the standard for copper. Just trying to bring this thread back to terms most of us less informed folks can comprehend. F5 is alive and doing well! Thanks!!!
So,
Sy, what wire is in your tonearms now, and why?
Ron
Inside the tonearm? Whatever came with it- as I mentioned in the phono preamp article, I was too chicken to do surgery. From the arm to the preamp, shielded CAT-5, for the reasons mentioned earlier in the thread- balance, shielding, low R. Silver would even be nicer (slightly lower R, great solderability), but I have a mortgage to pay.
Well, I suppose you could identify the individual conductors in a Litzendraht wire and use them for individual signals. Never really considered it previously.
To amplify pooge's comment, balanced is about impedances; the impedances to earth must be equal from each leg. So it's not just stray capacitances, it's also leakage resistance and inductance.
And you don't realise the futility of such a question? A length of Cardas tonearm wire together with a set of nice clips costs less than an average lunch. Why don't you just try it for yourself? No surgery required for a test as you can simply cellotape the wire to the arm tube. If you hear no worthwhile improvement you can certainly recoup at least half of your expense by selling it.
I wasn't suggesting using a single litz bundle for everything, but rather four separate litz bundles. And more specifically, made up of very fine strands such as the 44 gauge used in the 20/44 litz that 1n34a sells.
I suggested it due to its extreme flexibility vis a vis impeding the arm's movement. The combination of ultra fine stranding and the ultra fine nylon "floss" that's served over the wire to keep it together gives much greater flexibility than you'll get with an extruded plastic insulation.
se
That's what I did in my old Thorens TD124. Worked just fine. Can't swear it was better then stock, but it wasn't worse!
This is where definitions and implementations can cause confusion. To some, Tonearm wire is the wire inside the tonearm. To others, Tonearm wire has the same meaning as interconnects. Still, to confuse matters even more they can be the same thing. (which seems to be the preferred option) Now, I think we all can agree the connection between the turntable and the preamp / receiver should be shielded, also to my limited knowledge by design of the MC / MM the 2 pairs of wires from the cartridge are balanced......more or less from the factory.
So, this discussion does indeed come down to "Do cables make a difference"?
It would seem important with such low mVs being transported, that the lower the resistance and inductance the better.
Should different wire types be used inside the tonearm than outside the tonearm? With a run as short as possible between the turntable and the Preamp / Receiver. Either by removing the shielding prior to entering the tonearm or connecting different wire types near the plinth exit. Which is better? Why?
Which brings us back to tone-arm wire quality, anyone actually try different brands / styles? This is subjective opinion of course, but isn't that what it all boils down to in the end, our own unique preferences?
Ron
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