I buy end of roll 1% resistors of odd values at a discount from newark. Cheap. $1.20 a hundred usually for 1/4 watt. The 20% resistors are all the same wrong value anyway, usually a low value to save cost. Sometimes there is a process shift and of 100 20% parts ~40 parts will be one value and ~60 parts will be another. The days of random distribution value in 20% parts are all over. So if the 1% resistors are within 20% of a nominal EIA value, I use them for that. At least the two channels will match.
RIAA or filter circuits require more accuracy. I'll use 2 resistors in series sometimes to make those values accurate.
RIAA or filter circuits require more accuracy. I'll use 2 resistors in series sometimes to make those values accurate.
I buy cinemag blue label 3440 AH step up transformers and I am definitely guilty of name dropping.
They make a great product.
You can call them on the phone, speak directly to the owner
They arent expensive. I dont know of a manufacturer who makes an equal device that is substantially cheaper. They look great and have name recognition.
Boutique caps are not for me.
If they were I'd design my own gold and brown heat shrink and put it over malory 150s and charge $200 for them.
I've got better things to do, though many folks do not...
They make a great product.
You can call them on the phone, speak directly to the owner
They arent expensive. I dont know of a manufacturer who makes an equal device that is substantially cheaper. They look great and have name recognition.
Boutique caps are not for me.
If they were I'd design my own gold and brown heat shrink and put it over malory 150s and charge $200 for them.
I've got better things to do, though many folks do not...
I like the nice red punch of color you get with a WIMA cap.
Are regular black Solen film caps exotic? A couple of months ago I was putting in two Solens (new from Madisound) in a crossover, and one of the caps had a fatter wire on one side only. So to make it fit I had to drill out the one corresponding hole on the xo board...
Are regular black Solen film caps exotic? A couple of months ago I was putting in two Solens (new from Madisound) in a crossover, and one of the caps had a fatter wire on one side only. So to make it fit I had to drill out the one corresponding hole on the xo board...
Does two LM317/337 supplies in series count? The first at +/- 18V and the second (lower noise variant with the so called LF353 servo circuit) at +/- 12V.
How about multiple excessively large screw can electrolytics for the power amplifier supplies along with a soft start? (The soft start is necessary to protect the fuse...)
How about multiple excessively large screw can electrolytics for the power amplifier supplies along with a soft start? (The soft start is necessary to protect the fuse...)
I buy from Mouser, etc. sensible parts from quality manufacturers..... I like to keep things simple.
None of that fancy stuff for me, once its in an enclosure, no one sees it, it doesn't have to be "pretty", just reliable.
Outside the box, I don't go nuts either.. plain-ish, but nice enough.
None of that fancy stuff for me, once its in an enclosure, no one sees it, it doesn't have to be "pretty", just reliable.
Outside the box, I don't go nuts either.. plain-ish, but nice enough.
Attachments
I use CMF resistors -- but I buy them 100x at a crack so they're not hugely expensive...also ceramic tube sockets...WIMA PP caps.
I like Mark's comment wrt Zetex transistors. NP got me started on them with my first F-series amplifiers.
wrt wire -- when my son has the work plane avionics and antennas re-fitted I get loads of extremely expensive coax which goes into none of my audio projects. that's for ham radio...saying this I am still using RG8/U which I bought in the 1970's -- I should know better.
I like Mark's comment wrt Zetex transistors. NP got me started on them with my first F-series amplifiers.
wrt wire -- when my son has the work plane avionics and antennas re-fitted I get loads of extremely expensive coax which goes into none of my audio projects. that's for ham radio...saying this I am still using RG8/U which I bought in the 1970's -- I should know better.
I was wondering the other day if someone has built two amps side by side. One with all the fancy caps and resistors and the other with traditionally priced parts, just to hear the difference. Seems like it would be a great way to prove the affects of parts on a build. If someone's done this could you put up a link?
JZatopa:
There are some natural variables to your idea that likely makes things impossible to determine.
First off, everything is built with components that have tolerences, being 1%, 5%, or other.
Transistors, tubes, transformers, etc., all have variables as well.
Even critically matched tubes perform with their own specific nature, transistors, even matched Hfe ones can drift differently in the same circuit.
So there are variables... plain and simple.
Yes, "picky" audiophiles (should I say Fanatics?) tend to obsess over tiny variables, sometimes to the point of unreasonable nonsense.
In my opinion, and I'm sure some others, a good satisfying balance is more appropriate, and surely less stressful.
The equipment that I've produced or serviced all function with quite respectable specifications, and I've not heard anyone complain yet.
There are some natural variables to your idea that likely makes things impossible to determine.
First off, everything is built with components that have tolerences, being 1%, 5%, or other.
Transistors, tubes, transformers, etc., all have variables as well.
Even critically matched tubes perform with their own specific nature, transistors, even matched Hfe ones can drift differently in the same circuit.
So there are variables... plain and simple.
Yes, "picky" audiophiles (should I say Fanatics?) tend to obsess over tiny variables, sometimes to the point of unreasonable nonsense.
In my opinion, and I'm sure some others, a good satisfying balance is more appropriate, and surely less stressful.
The equipment that I've produced or serviced all function with quite respectable specifications, and I've not heard anyone complain yet.
I like that a lot too
but I use them because they're the correct capacitor to use. You can see them through the vents.
Thanks guys.
I'm a firm believer that plainish, simple, straightforward, is just as impressive as something overly-complex and "busy".
I like "clean looks"
In a way, "less is more".
All my products/projects are naturally my own design, with a bit of help from mainstream commercial offerings.
Hi I did just that but many many years ago when I started with this hobby. That is why I have to laugh at people that state different parts can not be heard.
If you count "ideas" as a system component, then yeah, I do indulge. Some such ideas are:
- If you have to cross to a different driver, do that a decade below the typical Tweeter spot.
- Use DSP and separate amps to do that, if you can
- If you listen to mostly Digital media, keep your signal path all Digital. Analog for Analog source. Avoid going back 'n forth if you can.
- Use analog power supplies for audio if you can. They're almost giving them away on ebay sometimes...
- Put most of your investment in your speaker components. They should be able to transform "anything you got" upstream into pressure waves against your eardrum with minimum flaw.
- An OB trumps boxes by one simple fact - it's noisy in there. Without Herculean measures, that back noise is going to radiate through something. Better to just let it fly than constrain it.
- Boutique digital - FiFo's, Oscillators, aiming at low phase jitter clockage makes a difference in soundstage appearance.
If I happen to have a 39 uf, 50V cap - I'll slap it across the 24V input terminals of my class D amp. Better than leaving it set in a drawer!
- If you have to cross to a different driver, do that a decade below the typical Tweeter spot.
- Use DSP and separate amps to do that, if you can
- If you listen to mostly Digital media, keep your signal path all Digital. Analog for Analog source. Avoid going back 'n forth if you can.
- Use analog power supplies for audio if you can. They're almost giving them away on ebay sometimes...
- Put most of your investment in your speaker components. They should be able to transform "anything you got" upstream into pressure waves against your eardrum with minimum flaw.
- An OB trumps boxes by one simple fact - it's noisy in there. Without Herculean measures, that back noise is going to radiate through something. Better to just let it fly than constrain it.
- Boutique digital - FiFo's, Oscillators, aiming at low phase jitter clockage makes a difference in soundstage appearance.
If I happen to have a 39 uf, 50V cap - I'll slap it across the 24V input terminals of my class D amp. Better than leaving it set in a drawer!
