Hello,
Can anyone help me??
I have a dikits.com.hk TCXO clock kit.
It's all populated and ready to go in but I have no 12vac in the CDp , it states you can use direct 5vdc, anyone know how I should wire it at to 5vdc??
Do I remove/jumper the rectifier and go directly?
Thanks
Can anyone help me??
I have a dikits.com.hk TCXO clock kit.
It's all populated and ready to go in but I have no 12vac in the CDp , it states you can use direct 5vdc, anyone know how I should wire it at to 5vdc??
Do I remove/jumper the rectifier and go directly?
Thanks
Last edited:
Probably more likely because this is an obscure kit that isn't well supported.
Personally, I wouldn't connect 5VDC directly to it, as you'll lose any benefit the clock's power supply would have afforded you. How you'd connect is really depends on what voltages are available inside your CD player.
The power supply is designed to regulate about 16.5VDC (regulated 12VAC), so if your player has a 15VDC supply, that may suit. If you post the values of the two resistors connected to each LM317 regulator, I'll be able to tell you what range of voltages is suitable.
But to be honest, the best way to use the clock is with its own 12V transformer, like the designer intended. Add a small 240V to 12V transformer inside the case.
12v toroidal
I'm going to go the route Wu (diykits) intended.
The only problem I have is I'm new to electronics and I know I'll need a transformer, but which one is the question?
I've been looking for a 12v ac toroidal but see there are primary/secondary windings, how do you wire them for 12v ac out?
Can anyone help? I'll be purchasing it from farnell so if anyone can point me at a specific item on the site (item no??) then that would be great.
Thank you
I'm going to go the route Wu (diykits) intended.
The only problem I have is I'm new to electronics and I know I'll need a transformer, but which one is the question?
I've been looking for a 12v ac toroidal but see there are primary/secondary windings, how do you wire them for 12v ac out?
Can anyone help? I'll be purchasing it from farnell so if anyone can point me at a specific item on the site (item no??) then that would be great.
Thank you
Farnell product number 9530231 looks good. To wire this one up, you'd need to make the following connections:
Primaries:
Brown lead to Phase
Blue lead to Neutral
Connect violet and gray leads together
Secondaries:
Red lead to either of the 12VAC terminals on the PCB
Orange lead to the other 12VAC terminal on the PCB
Connect black and yellow leads together
Also, as with any mains electricity project, there are many rules to follow, such as:
- There must be a fuse in mains supply to the transformer. A fuse value of 100mA would be about right.
- If the CD player you are installing this into is double insulated, make sure your work is too.
- Make sure you don't form a shorted winding with the transformer.
Primaries:
Brown lead to Phase
Blue lead to Neutral
Connect violet and gray leads together
Secondaries:
Red lead to either of the 12VAC terminals on the PCB
Orange lead to the other 12VAC terminal on the PCB
Connect black and yellow leads together
Also, as with any mains electricity project, there are many rules to follow, such as:
- There must be a fuse in mains supply to the transformer. A fuse value of 100mA would be about right.
- If the CD player you are installing this into is double insulated, make sure your work is too.
- Make sure you don't form a shorted winding with the transformer.
No problem.
If your new to electronics, it might be best to post some photos of your install before you apply power to it, so others can check that it looks alright.
Anton
If your new to electronics, it might be best to post some photos of your install before you apply power to it, so others can check that it looks alright.
Anton
-Do I not need a fuse before and after the transformer?
-Double insulated? I'm unsure of what you mean, sorry.
-Shorted winding? is that wired incorrectly?
Thanks
Okay, put the fuse in as per the attached diagram. A secondary fuse is not necessary.
There are two types of appliance, grounded and double insulated. With grounded appliances the chassis is connected to ground, and the power cord will have a ground pin (three pins total). Double insulated appliances are not grounded, and will only have a two pin power cord. They use two layers of insulation to ensure they remain safe.
If your CD player is double insulated, and a lot are, you need to put two layers of insulation on all the 240VAC cables and fittings you add to make sure the player will still be safe after you modify it.
A shorted winding is formed when you somehow make a conductive loop through the middle and completely around the toroid. The transformer will get very hot, then very broken. See diagram for example.
There are two types of appliance, grounded and double insulated. With grounded appliances the chassis is connected to ground, and the power cord will have a ground pin (three pins total). Double insulated appliances are not grounded, and will only have a two pin power cord. They use two layers of insulation to ensure they remain safe.
If your CD player is double insulated, and a lot are, you need to put two layers of insulation on all the 240VAC cables and fittings you add to make sure the player will still be safe after you modify it.
A shorted winding is formed when you somehow make a conductive loop through the middle and completely around the toroid. The transformer will get very hot, then very broken. See diagram for example.
Attachments
Wow, I'm gobsmacked. Thank you greatly, really impressed. The drawing is brilliant. Now I know exactly what I need to do.
All the best,
Ant
Another question for any helpers out there......
Does anyone know if it is common practice when fitting any type/brand of ugraded clock to remove/bridge the 2 associated ceramic capacitors leading to earth from the old oscillators legs and also remove the parallel resistor?
Thank you
Does anyone know if it is common practice when fitting any type/brand of ugraded clock to remove/bridge the 2 associated ceramic capacitors leading to earth from the old oscillators legs and also remove the parallel resistor?
Thank you
You will need to remove all of the components you mentioned. Of the two pads where the crystal was, one will be XIN, the other XOUT. The clock output needs to be soldered to the XIN pad. What IC was used as the clock generator (what chip was the crystal connected to)?
Thank you again for your reply. I started another thread as I didn't think people would spot my question. Tha chip is a Toshiba TC94A54MFG 001. Think I've figured out the in/out from a basic diagram: http://www.toshiba.com/taec/components/Generic/05B04_TC94A5460MFG.pdf (in at pin 23 X1, out at 24 X0) is that correct?
A helpfull chap has been guiding me, there should be a recent post heading 'clock replacement' if you would like to see what's been posted.
Thank you again & all the best,
Ant
Okay, just saw that you posted that it is a Toshiba TC94A54. On this IC, XIN is pin 23, so connect the clock PCB's output to this pin (or the trace from the removed crystal that leads to this pin).
Great stuff, just what I thought. About to order the toroidal now and start burning my fingers. Just looking for an inline fuse holder on Farnells. Thanks, Ant.
Hello, either I have a problem or the 100mA fuse is not enough?????
Upon power up the fuse blows, could it be too low a value??
Current draw answer needed?
Hello,
I'm in need of a desperate answer.
Does anyone out there know what current the diykits.com.hk clock kit draws?
I'm using a 12v toroidal with a 100mA fuse but it blows as soon as connected.
100mA seems a bit low to me, what should I go for????
Thanks
Hello,
I'm in need of a desperate answer.
Does anyone out there know what current the diykits.com.hk clock kit draws?
I'm using a 12v toroidal with a 100mA fuse but it blows as soon as connected.
100mA seems a bit low to me, what should I go for????
Thanks
Hi Nad,
It's possible the 100ma fuse can't handle the turn on surge, depends on how much capacitance they have before the reg. Try slo blow fuses if that's not what you have now. You could safely go to 250ma, if there is a problem elsewhere it will still blow instantly.
Best, Bill
It's possible the 100ma fuse can't handle the turn on surge, depends on how much capacitance they have before the reg. Try slo blow fuses if that's not what you have now. You could safely go to 250ma, if there is a problem elsewhere it will still blow instantly.
Best, Bill
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