What would you use to power them. These bulbs remind me of strobe lights.
http://www.donsbulbs.com/b/i/p/pxa50.html
They also look different for each of the bulbs....ie the -44 looks like a straight tube
I'd hate to see the electric bill of on of these. They eat 4,000 watts, thats just way to much for anything home related, IMHO.
http://www.donsbulbs.com/b/i/p/pxa50.html
They also look different for each of the bulbs....ie the -44 looks like a straight tube
I'd hate to see the electric bill of on of these. They eat 4,000 watts, thats just way to much for anything home related, IMHO.
eebasist,
i believe that is a stobe light. has to be. you would only get that kind of current from a good capacitor setup
i believe that is a stobe light. has to be. you would only get that kind of current from a good capacitor setup
Ohms Law
Donno if you heard of Ohms law but I use it daily amount of current depends on amount of voltage required if im not mistaken these use several hundred volts I.E. 400W HPS 240V = 1.66 amps the 4000W PXA 600V = 6.66 amps any standard outlet can handle 15 - 20 amps depending on what size citcuit it is. The 600 is just a guess its prolly higher like 1kv but I just want to show you how that works.
Just found this.
Electromagnetic noise is generated during the discharge voltage of the flashlamp because of high instantaneous peak currents and the high voltage trigger pulse (3 to 4 kV) required to ionize xenon. Some applications may require shielding of the lamp through enclosure in a grounded metal housing. 1100 Series Lite-Pac® Trigger Modules and Power Supplies utilize noise-suppression circuitry to minimize this problem
With this kind of voltage it is very important to be carefull a charged cap can knock you on you butt real quick.
Donno if you heard of Ohms law but I use it daily amount of current depends on amount of voltage required if im not mistaken these use several hundred volts I.E. 400W HPS 240V = 1.66 amps the 4000W PXA 600V = 6.66 amps any standard outlet can handle 15 - 20 amps depending on what size citcuit it is. The 600 is just a guess its prolly higher like 1kv but I just want to show you how that works.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just found this.
Electromagnetic noise is generated during the discharge voltage of the flashlamp because of high instantaneous peak currents and the high voltage trigger pulse (3 to 4 kV) required to ionize xenon. Some applications may require shielding of the lamp through enclosure in a grounded metal housing. 1100 Series Lite-Pac® Trigger Modules and Power Supplies utilize noise-suppression circuitry to minimize this problem
With this kind of voltage it is very important to be carefull a charged cap can knock you on you butt real quick.
Yes I am quite aware of Ohm's law....I too used it frequently. I wasnt saying that 4000 watts isn't possible out of the home....just not the best idea for economic sense. The heat it would also create would pose an issue as well.....also figure for about 5,000 watts of power with a power source thats semi efficient.
BTW....the capacitor required would be able to do more than knock you on your ***, it should be able to kill you.....just look at a simple photo flash unit....that will shock you, imagine the power needed in a cap for something that size.
BTW....the capacitor required would be able to do more than knock you on your ***, it should be able to kill you.....just look at a simple photo flash unit....that will shock you, imagine the power needed in a cap for something that size.
found a site that has projection lamps for next to nothing, unfortunately they only have lamp/bulb #'s no pics.
link:
http://www.ceitron.com/passive/ge.html
check it out. might get a great lamp for nada.
ap0the0sis
link:
http://www.ceitron.com/passive/ge.html
check it out. might get a great lamp for nada.
ap0the0sis
laptop screen
just found these pdf files about Chips and Technologies, Inc. 65554 PCI controller:
www.intel.com/design/graphics/mobilegraphics/design/050168001.pdf
www.tempustech.com/pdf/sbc555manual.pdf
www.tri-m.com/products/aaeon/manual/pcm5894.pdf
www.tri-m.com/products/aaeon/manual/pcm5892.pdf
www.theochem.uni-duesseldorf.de/~guido/highscreen_laptop_linux/files/an119_1.pdf
anyone can help with wirring desktop video card to that laptop video card?
just found these pdf files about Chips and Technologies, Inc. 65554 PCI controller:
www.intel.com/design/graphics/mobilegraphics/design/050168001.pdf
www.tempustech.com/pdf/sbc555manual.pdf
www.tri-m.com/products/aaeon/manual/pcm5894.pdf
www.tri-m.com/products/aaeon/manual/pcm5892.pdf
www.theochem.uni-duesseldorf.de/~guido/highscreen_laptop_linux/files/an119_1.pdf
anyone can help with wirring desktop video card to that laptop video card?
eebasist,
I doubt you will get killed off of a cap it would be like a stun gun and give you a good shock but a cap cant hold enough charge to really hurt you bad but it is enough to give you a bad day :/
I doubt you will get killed off of a cap it would be like a stun gun and give you a good shock but a cap cant hold enough charge to really hurt you bad but it is enough to give you a bad day :/
whinner
nope, no one here is going to be able to help you with that.
you are going to have to trace it out on the PCB to determine where exactly the PCI bus integrates with the video card....reason no one can help is because we wont be able to do it without having it.....even then you are looking at many hours of work............i wish you the best of luck, but i dont think you'll be getting this beast to work again.
nope, no one here is going to be able to help you with that.
you are going to have to trace it out on the PCB to determine where exactly the PCI bus integrates with the video card....reason no one can help is because we wont be able to do it without having it.....even then you are looking at many hours of work............i wish you the best of luck, but i dont think you'll be getting this beast to work again.
Question about bulb replacement?
I ordered 2 new bulbs for my Buhl 2963 OHP. They are 400 watt halogen 5,500 lummens...When I put them in I noticed I can see the bulb on my screen (It is like the light is not totally diffused) Everything looks fine in the housing of the bulb...it is put in straight and seems aligned fine but when I turn it on and watch a dvd I do notice a light spot in the center (it is not overwhelming but it is a concentration of my my bulb light) Any suggestions to the steps I take to try to resolve this.
(1 week so far 7 movies watched in my new theater Wa HOOOOO!)
-Blockhead
I ordered 2 new bulbs for my Buhl 2963 OHP. They are 400 watt halogen 5,500 lummens...When I put them in I noticed I can see the bulb on my screen (It is like the light is not totally diffused) Everything looks fine in the housing of the bulb...it is put in straight and seems aligned fine but when I turn it on and watch a dvd I do notice a light spot in the center (it is not overwhelming but it is a concentration of my my bulb light) Any suggestions to the steps I take to try to resolve this.
(1 week so far 7 movies watched in my new theater Wa HOOOOO!)
-Blockhead
Whew...! I`ve just read about a gazzilion posts on this stuff. Hey heres my plan. Tell me if you guys think it`ll work.
I have a 14" LCD pc monitor, and a rear projection screen from Da-Lite. I want to build my projection screen into the wall and stick my LCD screen back there (yeah, theres room) with a Fresnal lens (or two, whichever is better) and stick it as close as I can get it to the rear proj. screen and still get a 48" x 36" picture.
Seems to me that a pc LCD monitor would put out plenty of light for a screen thats only as big as what I said. Plus there will be no ambient light behind that wall where the LCD screen is. With an adapter or two I should be able to plug my DVD into my LCD monitor.
What do you guys think about that?
Mitch
I have a 14" LCD pc monitor, and a rear projection screen from Da-Lite. I want to build my projection screen into the wall and stick my LCD screen back there (yeah, theres room) with a Fresnal lens (or two, whichever is better) and stick it as close as I can get it to the rear proj. screen and still get a 48" x 36" picture.
Seems to me that a pc LCD monitor would put out plenty of light for a screen thats only as big as what I said. Plus there will be no ambient light behind that wall where the LCD screen is. With an adapter or two I should be able to plug my DVD into my LCD monitor.
What do you guys think about that?
Mitch
hey Mitch,
that thing with the wall sounds not bad; the only problem is the lcd will not be bright enough. I tried the same thing with a 21" TV (no not the 100" big-screen thing with the fresnel lenses; i built my own lens with eye glasses and had a sharp but too dark 60" picture) but it didn't work out though 🙁
If you double the picture size you'll need 4 times more light behind the screen.
And in your case that would mean you want to make a 60" picture out of a 14" lcd screen, so the screen has to be 16 times brighter to have 60" picture that is worth to see a movie. With the TV I had a projected picture that was 8 times darker than the picture on the TV itself and it wasn't worth to look at it. Just imagine you turn the brightness and contrast on your pc monitor on 100 and then you turn it both back to 6. That would be the brightness of your projected image on the screen (in a completly dark room).
You won't have ambient light behind the screen but there is still light on the screen from the front, so you can only watch films in a dark room.
I think your lcd has about 250cd/m... = 250 lumen. So you would need a light source that produces about 4000 to 5000 lumens to make your project work.
You would have to open your lcd and replace the backlight...
The last part is only a suggestion, because i am still working on that and haven't finshed it yet.
You can try on your own risk and if you have finished it before i have plz let me know if it works... 😉
Sorry for my bad english, hope you got what I mean
Andy
that thing with the wall sounds not bad; the only problem is the lcd will not be bright enough. I tried the same thing with a 21" TV (no not the 100" big-screen thing with the fresnel lenses; i built my own lens with eye glasses and had a sharp but too dark 60" picture) but it didn't work out though 🙁
If you double the picture size you'll need 4 times more light behind the screen.
And in your case that would mean you want to make a 60" picture out of a 14" lcd screen, so the screen has to be 16 times brighter to have 60" picture that is worth to see a movie. With the TV I had a projected picture that was 8 times darker than the picture on the TV itself and it wasn't worth to look at it. Just imagine you turn the brightness and contrast on your pc monitor on 100 and then you turn it both back to 6. That would be the brightness of your projected image on the screen (in a completly dark room).
You won't have ambient light behind the screen but there is still light on the screen from the front, so you can only watch films in a dark room.
I think your lcd has about 250cd/m... = 250 lumen. So you would need a light source that produces about 4000 to 5000 lumens to make your project work.
You would have to open your lcd and replace the backlight...
The last part is only a suggestion, because i am still working on that and haven't finshed it yet.
You can try on your own risk and if you have finished it before i have plz let me know if it works... 😉
Sorry for my bad english, hope you got what I mean
Andy
Re: laptop screen
If you really wanna use a laptop with the lcd panel, there are USB tv-cards (apr. 80$) for notebooks. You could connect your DVD-player or whatever, even your pc if it has a graphic card with tv out to the laptop. Only problem is these USB tv-cards only give out a resolution of 328x248 (or something like a 4" display). So the xga panel of the notebook would be useless... That's why i didn't try it. But may be they are better now...
Hope that helps...
Andy
the whinner said:
If you really wanna use a laptop with the lcd panel, there are USB tv-cards (apr. 80$) for notebooks. You could connect your DVD-player or whatever, even your pc if it has a graphic card with tv out to the laptop. Only problem is these USB tv-cards only give out a resolution of 328x248 (or something like a 4" display). So the xga panel of the notebook would be useless... That's why i didn't try it. But may be they are better now...
Hope that helps...
Andy
Due to a lack of activity in the subforums, and people not being able to find threads properly, all threads have been merged back into the video area. I hope that this makes it easier for you to find what you're looking for.
Thanks for the reply, Andy.
The only reason I thought it would be bright enough is because its with a LCD computer monitor and not a regular TV. Computer monitors are brighter than TVs.
Anyways, tell me what you think.
Mitch
The only reason I thought it would be bright enough is because its with a LCD computer monitor and not a regular TV. Computer monitors are brighter than TVs.
Anyways, tell me what you think.
Mitch
Hi,
i have a question about a lcd ...
Which adjustments do i have to make before i can use a lcd screen (5") in my projector ???
Do i have to to remove the back.... and tape a fresnel lens behind it???
Or do i have to completly remove back + backlights?????
PLEASE...help me
thx thx thx .....etc
i have a question about a lcd ...
Which adjustments do i have to make before i can use a lcd screen (5") in my projector ???
Do i have to to remove the back.... and tape a fresnel lens behind it???
Or do i have to completly remove back + backlights?????
PLEASE...help me
thx thx thx .....etc
you are right mitch,
lcds are brighter... but not bright enough with their original backlight. you will even see a projected picture, but it will be too dark; not much contrast and very dark colours
but just like whinner says: everything's worth a try
and if it doesn't work you can still think about replacing the backlights of your lcd with much brighter bulbs.
it's nearly the same thing like this ohp - panel constructions, which the most in here have built very successful; most ohps have not enough light for the panels even if they have up to 2000 lumens. and your lcd's backlight only has 250-350 lumens, that is why i think the picture will be too dark...
Andy
lcds are brighter... but not bright enough with their original backlight. you will even see a projected picture, but it will be too dark; not much contrast and very dark colours
but just like whinner says: everything's worth a try
and if it doesn't work you can still think about replacing the backlights of your lcd with much brighter bulbs.
it's nearly the same thing like this ohp - panel constructions, which the most in here have built very successful; most ohps have not enough light for the panels even if they have up to 2000 lumens. and your lcd's backlight only has 250-350 lumens, that is why i think the picture will be too dark...
Andy
notebook for projection
Today i've read something, that makes me think about the notebook again.
This USB TV-card has such a bad resolution (383x234dots) because the data stream of USB is too low (1,5MB/sec in the best case).
But i read about USB2 with a data stream of 60MB/sec.
I didn't find a TV card which supports USB2 yet, but I'm sure there will be one in the near future. Or may be there still is, then please let me know...
If you had that thing, and let's say it supports a resolution of 800x600 or even 1024x768, then you could buy a notebook that has USB and could connect your DVD-player to the card, the card through USB to your notebook and watch the films on your notebook's tft screen. Then you take the panel apart, and use it WITH the notebook.
The advantage would be that there won't be the problem to make the panel work on a normal controler card, because you would use the original controler with the notebook...
So keep on searching for such an USB2 TV card... 😀
Andy
Today i've read something, that makes me think about the notebook again.
This USB TV-card has such a bad resolution (383x234dots) because the data stream of USB is too low (1,5MB/sec in the best case).
But i read about USB2 with a data stream of 60MB/sec.
I didn't find a TV card which supports USB2 yet, but I'm sure there will be one in the near future. Or may be there still is, then please let me know...
If you had that thing, and let's say it supports a resolution of 800x600 or even 1024x768, then you could buy a notebook that has USB and could connect your DVD-player to the card, the card through USB to your notebook and watch the films on your notebook's tft screen. Then you take the panel apart, and use it WITH the notebook.
The advantage would be that there won't be the problem to make the panel work on a normal controler card, because you would use the original controler with the notebook...
So keep on searching for such an USB2 TV card... 😀
Andy