7" Widescreen
Thanks for the help with the candlepower! Im looking for recomendations for a light source as well as an LCD. I want to use a 16:9 LCD and found one for 200. Can anyone tell me if this is a good one to use?
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/besttoys2/tm7001s.html
Also...im wondering about what types of lenses to use for this and how they should be arranged. Anyone got any diagrams?
I liked the way Zark5150 did his original design if anyone saw that. Also, anyone using ultra bright white LED's?
thanks
-Mike
Thanks for the help with the candlepower! Im looking for recomendations for a light source as well as an LCD. I want to use a 16:9 LCD and found one for 200. Can anyone tell me if this is a good one to use?
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/besttoys2/tm7001s.html
Also...im wondering about what types of lenses to use for this and how they should be arranged. Anyone got any diagrams?
I liked the way Zark5150 did his original design if anyone saw that. Also, anyone using ultra bright white LED's?
thanks
-Mike
FS - Mother of all Metal Halides - sic
This is a 600W, 2000 hour bulb, latest design. Brand new, never used. First $40 into my paypal (joejas@ihpc.net) gets it. This bulb is supposedly temperature expansion compensated, vis-a-vis its mechanical mounting.
This should provide plenty of light with the appropriate ballast. Probably in the 75K lumen range.
This is a 600W, 2000 hour bulb, latest design. Brand new, never used. First $40 into my paypal (joejas@ihpc.net) gets it. This bulb is supposedly temperature expansion compensated, vis-a-vis its mechanical mounting.
This should provide plenty of light with the appropriate ballast. Probably in the 75K lumen range.
Attachments
jjasniew,
Why don't you use it? If you have any hardware to mount such a creature, I'm sure you would have the best light source out there...
I have been checking out the Osram site regarding their 575 Watt bulbs, as apparently used in the Dukane 680 and Elmo 305, and they appear compatible with standard (M59 ???) 400 Watt ballasts when paired up with a "pulse start" igniter.
With the electronic versions of this ballast (higher frequency and better line regulation) the bulbs even give longer life than when used with their normal ballast...
Bill.
Why don't you use it? If you have any hardware to mount such a creature, I'm sure you would have the best light source out there...
I have been checking out the Osram site regarding their 575 Watt bulbs, as apparently used in the Dukane 680 and Elmo 305, and they appear compatible with standard (M59 ???) 400 Watt ballasts when paired up with a "pulse start" igniter.
With the electronic versions of this ballast (higher frequency and better line regulation) the bulbs even give longer life than when used with their normal ballast...
Bill.
I'm giving up on my nView Spectra C. I contacted the eBastard but he never replied. When I power on the unit, it comes to a blue screen that reads, "nView Spectra C". Undream has reason to believe that I'm using a bad cable. It's the '92 model with Analog input, DB9 EGA input, Monitor out, Accessory jack,remote, and power supply.
Here is the link to the eBay auction including pic
As you can see, I bought it for $39.99 and it came out to be $55.99 including shipping. If anyone's interested, please tell me. Maybe you will have more luck than I do. I don't have the patience to go buy brand new cables. I'll part with this item at $25 + whatever the shipping costs. I'm not here to rip anybody off. It's just that it doesn't work for me. And I need a model with composite video-in. If you're not satisfied, you can try as I did and offer it to someone else to try out. I really don't want to rip anyone off. I'm a nice person. Unless my seller magically replies to my emails, then this offer will still stand.
Here is the link to the eBay auction including pic
As you can see, I bought it for $39.99 and it came out to be $55.99 including shipping. If anyone's interested, please tell me. Maybe you will have more luck than I do. I don't have the patience to go buy brand new cables. I'll part with this item at $25 + whatever the shipping costs. I'm not here to rip anybody off. It's just that it doesn't work for me. And I need a model with composite video-in. If you're not satisfied, you can try as I did and offer it to someone else to try out. I really don't want to rip anyone off. I'm a nice person. Unless my seller magically replies to my emails, then this offer will still stand.
HELP PLEASE!
I really need to know if a 7" Widescreen LCD will work. Im also looking for bulb recomendations. I really don't want to exceed 400 dollars on this project and the LCD is already 200. If the 7" widescreen LCD is too large, does anyone know where i can find a smaller 16:9 LCD? I REALLY need help on this. Also: does anyone know what kinds of lenses i will need and have links to a site that sells them. Thanks!
Also, this is the design i plan to build my projector by
http://www.audiovisualizers.com/madlab/lcd_proj.htm
Scroll down to the hand drawn design. Help is greatly appreciated.
I really need to know if a 7" Widescreen LCD will work. Im also looking for bulb recomendations. I really don't want to exceed 400 dollars on this project and the LCD is already 200. If the 7" widescreen LCD is too large, does anyone know where i can find a smaller 16:9 LCD? I REALLY need help on this. Also: does anyone know what kinds of lenses i will need and have links to a site that sells them. Thanks!
Also, this is the design i plan to build my projector by
http://www.audiovisualizers.com/madlab/lcd_proj.htm
Scroll down to the hand drawn design. Help is greatly appreciated.
MikeZupcak,
I think you might have a hard time finding lenses to work with the 7" LCD. They would need to be at least 8" in diameter to cover ther image, and that would probably mean a custom lens=$$$.
If you would like to stick with that LCD, you will probably need to use an OHP style setup...just use the LCD like others are using the LCD projection panels. You could downsize the enclosure by "folding" the light with mirrors.
It might be easier/cheaper to just go with a projection panel, but the 16:9 size is a nice feature to have. You could always black out the top and bottom bars and create a 16:9 LCD from a projection panel like posted earlier.
That's just my opinion. 😉 Good luck with it!
-f4
I think you might have a hard time finding lenses to work with the 7" LCD. They would need to be at least 8" in diameter to cover ther image, and that would probably mean a custom lens=$$$.
If you would like to stick with that LCD, you will probably need to use an OHP style setup...just use the LCD like others are using the LCD projection panels. You could downsize the enclosure by "folding" the light with mirrors.
It might be easier/cheaper to just go with a projection panel, but the 16:9 size is a nice feature to have. You could always black out the top and bottom bars and create a 16:9 LCD from a projection panel like posted earlier.
That's just my opinion. 😉 Good luck with it!
-f4
LCD projection panel
Im still looking into that 7" 16:9 LCD screen
Any way i could build an LCD projection panel using the aforementioned LCD screen?
Im still looking into that 7" 16:9 LCD screen
Any way i could build an LCD projection panel using the aforementioned LCD screen?
ok ihavent made a projectos yet but why wouldnt you be able to use a 16:9? unless the ribbon cables prevent you from removeing the backlight and everything behind the lcd itself there shouldnt be a prob
$200
you can get panels on ebay for around 50-100
$200
you can get panels on ebay for around 50-100
Hey, Undream...
It's me, Dave. You may have gleaned that I'm a few steps behind you, but following directly in your footsteps.
I picked up my 400 W MH ballast/bulb/kit a couple of weeks ago, and wired it up yesterday, while the kids were watching "Shrek".
A couple of questions, for you, or anyone else, who knows:
1) the wiring diagram that comes with the ballast doesn't give any indication of what to do with the Ground wire from the 3 lead power cable. Black goes to the 120V wire, White (neutral) goes to the common, but what about the ground wire? I'm no electrical Engineer (Truth is, I'm a Mechanical Engineer; that plus $1.25 will get me a cup of coffee!) but I'm guessing that I should attach the ground wire to the metal bracket that holds the ballast. Comments?
3) The GE bulbs have a number of letters that may follow the 400W indication. Sometimes U, sometimes H, etc. I *think* these indicate the acceptable burning positions of the bulb: H for horizontal, V for Vertical, U for Universal (that is, any position is ok). IS this correct? I noticied that you mounted your bulb vertically in your early incarnations, but seem to have changed the orientation in your latest casing.
Thanks,
dave.
It's me, Dave. You may have gleaned that I'm a few steps behind you, but following directly in your footsteps.
I picked up my 400 W MH ballast/bulb/kit a couple of weeks ago, and wired it up yesterday, while the kids were watching "Shrek".
A couple of questions, for you, or anyone else, who knows:
1) the wiring diagram that comes with the ballast doesn't give any indication of what to do with the Ground wire from the 3 lead power cable. Black goes to the 120V wire, White (neutral) goes to the common, but what about the ground wire? I'm no electrical Engineer (Truth is, I'm a Mechanical Engineer; that plus $1.25 will get me a cup of coffee!) but I'm guessing that I should attach the ground wire to the metal bracket that holds the ballast. Comments?
3) The GE bulbs have a number of letters that may follow the 400W indication. Sometimes U, sometimes H, etc. I *think* these indicate the acceptable burning positions of the bulb: H for horizontal, V for Vertical, U for Universal (that is, any position is ok). IS this correct? I noticied that you mounted your bulb vertically in your early incarnations, but seem to have changed the orientation in your latest casing.
Thanks,
dave.
yep, your correct on the letter indicated burn position. I have a MH400/U
U: universal, any direction
BU: base up, which means, hung upside down
BD: base down, standing on its base
H (or HOR): horizontal.
As for the ground on the three prong? I didnt know what to do with it either, so, I just didn't hook it to anything. hehe. Someone please tell me if that is bad.
U: universal, any direction
BU: base up, which means, hung upside down
BD: base down, standing on its base
H (or HOR): horizontal.
As for the ground on the three prong? I didnt know what to do with it either, so, I just didn't hook it to anything. hehe. Someone please tell me if that is bad.
in most eceltric apps it wont hurt if the ground is not connected its just a precaution
should be fine but im no electrical Engineer
should be fine but im no electrical Engineer
Sorry to but in on you guys, but what do you consider to be a really BIG size for a projection screen?? Mine is 7' tall and 9' wide, hows that for a screen??
I was looking through links on this site the other day and ran across one of them that said that the ground (green wire) should be hooked up to the ballast casing i wish i could remember what the link was but since i've been doing so much reading lately it's buried somewhere... all i remember is that it had something to do with Icecap?? ballasts for MH bulbs ... hopefully this helps or maybe youi could find the link again they had a full wiring diagram for MH bulbs and ballasts.
Nothing definitive yet... Ballast grounding
In digging around the web, I see references that both the reflector and the Ballast base should be grounded.
So far, I haven't got a reflector, so the base seems to have been a good guess.
If anyone is in the know, I hope the knowledge will out. There seems to be some advantage to grounding aside from safety. I've seen reference to the fact that is takes out some interference; I wonder if it'll cut down on the hum that the ballast makes.
Probably not...
dave.
In digging around the web, I see references that both the reflector and the Ballast base should be grounded.
So far, I haven't got a reflector, so the base seems to have been a good guess.
If anyone is in the know, I hope the knowledge will out. There seems to be some advantage to grounding aside from safety. I've seen reference to the fact that is takes out some interference; I wonder if it'll cut down on the hum that the ballast makes.
Probably not...
dave.
fresnel lens
hy, i am new here and i need help from german DIY-ers!
can some of you tel me what is the german word for page magnifier lens / fresnel lens ( 8 x 11 inch or bigger )!
i live in Yugoslavia and there is no way to find fresnels here, but i have some friends in Stutgart, Germany and in Wienna, Austria, who could buy them for me!
the only problem is that i dont know what are they caled in german!
or can you give me some links or adresses in those towns, so i could tell them where to go!
THANKS!!!
P.S.: you might find this link useful!
http://www.physics.umd.edu/deptinfo/facilities/lecdem/l7-33.htm
hy, i am new here and i need help from german DIY-ers!
can some of you tel me what is the german word for page magnifier lens / fresnel lens ( 8 x 11 inch or bigger )!
i live in Yugoslavia and there is no way to find fresnels here, but i have some friends in Stutgart, Germany and in Wienna, Austria, who could buy them for me!
the only problem is that i dont know what are they caled in german!
or can you give me some links or adresses in those towns, so i could tell them where to go!
THANKS!!!
P.S.: you might find this link useful!
http://www.physics.umd.edu/deptinfo/facilities/lecdem/l7-33.htm
this is what im doing at the moment
pink line is the air
air gose in through the fans than it gose through the tubes than air gose through the side holes in the mirror reflector i made than out the front of the reflector (holes) than hits the low-e glass then comes back to the light and out the hole where the light is going in to the reflector then the air gose out the exsost hole.
sorry for the run on sentance.
like this your not circulating hot air,or messing up the reflector, and its cooling the reflector, glass,and the bulb. i hvent tested it because i need to mount the bulb and order the low-e glass to finish my projector.so im still not positive this will work, but it sounds to me like it just might.
yelllow line is the light
this is what im hopping will work,or else im back to step #1. as long as the light gose some what forward and there is a fresnel right at the end of the reflector to catch all the light coming out of the reflector than the fresnel will send the light in one direction. i think it just might work see my picture. if you guys see a problem or have a queston, just tell me .it would help me out.
thanks & later.
😀 😀 😀 😀
pink line is the air
air gose in through the fans than it gose through the tubes than air gose through the side holes in the mirror reflector i made than out the front of the reflector (holes) than hits the low-e glass then comes back to the light and out the hole where the light is going in to the reflector then the air gose out the exsost hole.
sorry for the run on sentance.
like this your not circulating hot air,or messing up the reflector, and its cooling the reflector, glass,and the bulb. i hvent tested it because i need to mount the bulb and order the low-e glass to finish my projector.so im still not positive this will work, but it sounds to me like it just might.
yelllow line is the light
this is what im hopping will work,or else im back to step #1. as long as the light gose some what forward and there is a fresnel right at the end of the reflector to catch all the light coming out of the reflector than the fresnel will send the light in one direction. i think it just might work see my picture. if you guys see a problem or have a queston, just tell me .it would help me out.
thanks & later.
😀 😀 😀 😀
Attachments
looks like a great idea to me, that's exactly what I plan to do!
I hope a 400w halide produces enough lumens, I know it's sure darn bright in the open room as it is!!!
I hope a 400w halide produces enough lumens, I know it's sure darn bright in the open room as it is!!!
Projector
Biteon, i saw your diagram and have a few questions:
Where did you buy your bulb? What size and model LCD are you using and what are the blue lines and the green line in front of the light.
Biteon, i saw your diagram and have a few questions:
Where did you buy your bulb? What size and model LCD are you using and what are the blue lines and the green line in front of the light.
MikeZupcak,
Re your 7" 16:9 screen idea.
1) Check out whether the pixel res is RGB triplets horizontally, or each LCD shutter (one each for R, G and B). Most small video panels are quoted with a shutter res, and must have their horizontal resolution divided by three to get a reasistic figure.
2) If it has the correct resolution, then you could probably use a higher quality fresnel as an intermediate collector lens between the panel and the main objective, or go the OHP route.
Either way, you need to get all the light coming through the panel to go through the main objective in a controlled manner - otherwise you will lose brightness and/or quality.
The best bet is to use an objective lens that is bigger than the LCD panel - but there are very few 7" objectives around (the fresnel arrangement is a compromise on this). You COULD explore the route of using a 5" panel with the same type of 5 7/8" PCX used by Undream...
Bill.
Re your 7" 16:9 screen idea.
1) Check out whether the pixel res is RGB triplets horizontally, or each LCD shutter (one each for R, G and B). Most small video panels are quoted with a shutter res, and must have their horizontal resolution divided by three to get a reasistic figure.
2) If it has the correct resolution, then you could probably use a higher quality fresnel as an intermediate collector lens between the panel and the main objective, or go the OHP route.
Either way, you need to get all the light coming through the panel to go through the main objective in a controlled manner - otherwise you will lose brightness and/or quality.
The best bet is to use an objective lens that is bigger than the LCD panel - but there are very few 7" objectives around (the fresnel arrangement is a compromise on this). You COULD explore the route of using a 5" panel with the same type of 5 7/8" PCX used by Undream...
Bill.
MikeZupcak
the 2 green lines is the low-e glass which is two pieces of glass and some sort of gas in between to filter hot air . i desided that it might separated the box in two parts 1 the hot stuff side with the light and any thing else that can withstand alot of het and 2 the side that can not have to much heat forinstants plastic fresnels and controler boards and lcd polarizers etc. . but if the cool side of the separration is still to hot im planning to put a small fan.
the blue lines are the two fresnel lenses(plastic for now)one to capture all the light from the reflector and the other to condence the light so most the light is on the lcd and not all over the box walls being wasted.
the lighter color yellow after the low-e glass is colder light sence its being filtered from the low-e glass. and the box under the fresnel lenses is a metal box i made to cover and help keep the lcd controler chip cool i had a (heat problem there not to long ago),it also make it easy to separrate the box more with the fresnel lenses and wood.
im using a 5.6" car lcd color with remote and it has 700x900about res. and bought it at e-bay from some company name starvision for about $124. with out shipping etc. . the bulb is a 400watt metal halide ms400/u i think and i bought it here in my home town at a electrical store called "electrical distributers" or something like that. ive been having cammra problems so its been hard to get pictures ,ive been drawing most of my work.
the 2 green lines is the low-e glass which is two pieces of glass and some sort of gas in between to filter hot air . i desided that it might separated the box in two parts 1 the hot stuff side with the light and any thing else that can withstand alot of het and 2 the side that can not have to much heat forinstants plastic fresnels and controler boards and lcd polarizers etc. . but if the cool side of the separration is still to hot im planning to put a small fan.
the blue lines are the two fresnel lenses(plastic for now)one to capture all the light from the reflector and the other to condence the light so most the light is on the lcd and not all over the box walls being wasted.
the lighter color yellow after the low-e glass is colder light sence its being filtered from the low-e glass. and the box under the fresnel lenses is a metal box i made to cover and help keep the lcd controler chip cool i had a (heat problem there not to long ago),it also make it easy to separrate the box more with the fresnel lenses and wood.
im using a 5.6" car lcd color with remote and it has 700x900about res. and bought it at e-bay from some company name starvision for about $124. with out shipping etc. . the bulb is a 400watt metal halide ms400/u i think and i bought it here in my home town at a electrical store called "electrical distributers" or something like that. ive been having cammra problems so its been hard to get pictures ,ive been drawing most of my work.