Hey uvodee
Are you telling me you used a car lamp?
I had thought of this before and said to myself "Nah! to easy"
More details please, I don't understand what you meant by:
"you have to install the lamp in a small angle backwards"
Are you telling me you used a car lamp?
I had thought of this before and said to myself "Nah! to easy"
More details please, I don't understand what you meant by:
"you have to install the lamp in a small angle backwards"
car lamp
well for what it's worth i will answer this one.....
my Sylavania lamp does not have astraight beam but slightly downwards. i noticed it when the fresnel was put in front of it.
so i noticed that when i tilted the lamp ensemble slightly backwards, the beam became horizontal, i wanted to give that advise but i am sure that diy'ers here would have noticed that anyway !
well for what it's worth i will answer this one.....
my Sylavania lamp does not have astraight beam but slightly downwards. i noticed it when the fresnel was put in front of it.
so i noticed that when i tilted the lamp ensemble slightly backwards, the beam became horizontal, i wanted to give that advise but i am sure that diy'ers here would have noticed that anyway !
small lcd
Does anyone know or heard any more info on the tiny lcds that were posted a page or so back? I figured someone would know something by now.
Anyone??
Pod
Does anyone know or heard any more info on the tiny lcds that were posted a page or so back? I figured someone would know something by now.
Anyone??
Pod
OMG!!!
those small LCDs... finally there's a light in the end of the tunnell... with that resolution and size, the projetor can be the size of a shoe box... i gotta find out how much they are...
the only thing that scares me is that contrast ratio might be low...
good job, guys
those small LCDs... finally there's a light in the end of the tunnell... with that resolution and size, the projetor can be the size of a shoe box... i gotta find out how much they are...
the only thing that scares me is that contrast ratio might be low...
good job, guys Hi Tinker,
my lamp about 10" from the panel. Produce brightness much-much better than my previous 300W Halogen lamp, also it's like point light source, so the projected image doesn't blurry at all the edges.
Do you have any idea how to DIY polarization thing?
Hi Ovu...,
Actually I don't like to answer your previous bluntly post, but I do, thank's for your "polite" comments,
this is the second time you said "flaw" to me as long as I could remember, first you said my lens calculation spreadsheet is flaw, but you didn't mention which part is "flaw", now you said my reflector is "definitely flaw", but again you didn't do the test yourself, you just say what you think right.
Basically my reflector setup is similar with most OHP reflector did, with my long research and tested myself, spherical reflector is the easiest to DIY and get an affordable result at little cost, with 150W MH lamp, heat is not an issue here, do you know double ended MH lamp looklike? It's all glass enclosure only very small part blocking the light beam, so put it in front of reflector not much light will loose, no need to make a hole on the reflector. Please try searching keyword like: MH lamp, double filament, OHP reflector, spherical reflector etc to learn more from Internet, before made some comment, because I can't explain to much due to my inadequate English language.
I don't believe your long story about your "Fluorex" setup could produce good result...and now: car lamp,
it was already discussed in this forum several time long before, please try "printable version" to search.
FYI, good projector needs at least 500 ANSI lumens to get 70" diagonal size screen in a dimmed room, it has 250 Watts MH lamp (TOSHIBA TLP-410J, EPSON ELP-5000, SANYO PLC-5500N etc), the best lumens/Watt for MH lamp until now is 90 lumens/watt, so total lumens from the lamp is 250x90=22500 lumens! How much lumens do you get from your "Fluorex" or car lamp? and how much lumens output you get with efficiency factor only 15% from your projector? (best commercial projector only has 30% efficiency!). Correct me if I'm wrong.
Anyway,
I'm learning multiple lamps setup now, it was discussed before, I think it will solve my problem due to OHP fresnel size I'm using, which a little bit to small for 15" LCD panel. If I can get parallel rays from multiple lamps setup with small reflector behind each lamp, I don't need fresnel panel anymore.
Any better idea?
See you.
my lamp about 10" from the panel. Produce brightness much-much better than my previous 300W Halogen lamp, also it's like point light source, so the projected image doesn't blurry at all the edges.
Do you have any idea how to DIY polarization thing?
Hi Ovu...,
Actually I don't like to answer your previous bluntly post, but I do, thank's for your "polite" comments,
this is the second time you said "flaw" to me as long as I could remember, first you said my lens calculation spreadsheet is flaw, but you didn't mention which part is "flaw", now you said my reflector is "definitely flaw", but again you didn't do the test yourself, you just say what you think right.
Basically my reflector setup is similar with most OHP reflector did, with my long research and tested myself, spherical reflector is the easiest to DIY and get an affordable result at little cost, with 150W MH lamp, heat is not an issue here, do you know double ended MH lamp looklike? It's all glass enclosure only very small part blocking the light beam, so put it in front of reflector not much light will loose, no need to make a hole on the reflector. Please try searching keyword like: MH lamp, double filament, OHP reflector, spherical reflector etc to learn more from Internet, before made some comment, because I can't explain to much due to my inadequate English language.
I don't believe your long story about your "Fluorex" setup could produce good result...and now: car lamp,
it was already discussed in this forum several time long before, please try "printable version" to search.
FYI, good projector needs at least 500 ANSI lumens to get 70" diagonal size screen in a dimmed room, it has 250 Watts MH lamp (TOSHIBA TLP-410J, EPSON ELP-5000, SANYO PLC-5500N etc), the best lumens/Watt for MH lamp until now is 90 lumens/watt, so total lumens from the lamp is 250x90=22500 lumens! How much lumens do you get from your "Fluorex" or car lamp? and how much lumens output you get with efficiency factor only 15% from your projector? (best commercial projector only has 30% efficiency!). Correct me if I'm wrong.
Anyway,
I'm learning multiple lamps setup now, it was discussed before, I think it will solve my problem due to OHP fresnel size I'm using, which a little bit to small for 15" LCD panel. If I can get parallel rays from multiple lamps setup with small reflector behind each lamp, I don't need fresnel panel anymore.
Any better idea?
See you.
Guna..
the best lumens/Watt for MH lamp until now is 90 lumens/watt, so total lumens from the lamp is 250x90=22500 lumens! How much lumens do you get from your "Fluorex" or car lamp? and how much lumens output you get with efficiency factor only 15% from your projector?
humm now we are starting to undermine Lights Of America ??
where does this end.
according to LOA total lumes output is 6850.
I use 2, so more than 13.000 . I do believe that when 2 are combined, ones looses some lumen so i keep it at around 11.000
Your flaw?
well, nobody noticed (just as nobody reacted on the Fibonacci theory that i brought up here stating that 16:9 screens are fundamentally useless for human beings-if nobody participating to this forum has noticed this, well than i guess it's time for me to move on!) and i wonder why.... did anyone set up the project as your example?
I did.... and i noticed that it did not result in the same screen diagonal ( i asked my wife to mark with tape the outer points) , it was off more than 20 inches on a total of 84........
the i started to see that it was the fresnel that changed the results. 3 fresnels that passed my desk in 7 weeks all gave a different result. One Apollo, one TADI and one generic from Office Max all had different pictures. strangely enough The delta 67 and IV who are on the outside are so different and have a different focal point are very very similar in result. Again i repeat my self as in former postings. It must be me that does something somewhere wrong, i just cannot find it.
About the car lamp Sylvania, i can be very brief! it is the best result i have had, not for brightness but the color yellow is nowperfect and was not 100 pct with fluorex!
I am not an engineer nor a carpenter, i have a Ph.D in Global economy, but when i finished univ. it was calle world economics. Maybe i may not look so smart in your eyes Guna.. but i pretty much judge results quiet balanced.
the best lumens/Watt for MH lamp until now is 90 lumens/watt, so total lumens from the lamp is 250x90=22500 lumens! How much lumens do you get from your "Fluorex" or car lamp? and how much lumens output you get with efficiency factor only 15% from your projector?
humm now we are starting to undermine Lights Of America ??
where does this end.
according to LOA total lumes output is 6850.
I use 2, so more than 13.000 . I do believe that when 2 are combined, ones looses some lumen so i keep it at around 11.000
Your flaw?
well, nobody noticed (just as nobody reacted on the Fibonacci theory that i brought up here stating that 16:9 screens are fundamentally useless for human beings-if nobody participating to this forum has noticed this, well than i guess it's time for me to move on!) and i wonder why.... did anyone set up the project as your example?
I did.... and i noticed that it did not result in the same screen diagonal ( i asked my wife to mark with tape the outer points) , it was off more than 20 inches on a total of 84........
the i started to see that it was the fresnel that changed the results. 3 fresnels that passed my desk in 7 weeks all gave a different result. One Apollo, one TADI and one generic from Office Max all had different pictures. strangely enough The delta 67 and IV who are on the outside are so different and have a different focal point are very very similar in result. Again i repeat my self as in former postings. It must be me that does something somewhere wrong, i just cannot find it.
About the car lamp Sylvania, i can be very brief! it is the best result i have had, not for brightness but the color yellow is nowperfect and was not 100 pct with fluorex!
I am not an engineer nor a carpenter, i have a Ph.D in Global economy, but when i finished univ. it was calle world economics. Maybe i may not look so smart in your eyes Guna.. but i pretty much judge results quiet balanced.
Hi Uvodee,
thank you for your information regarding the "flaw".
I made the calculation from general rules of optic, I didn't create the formula myself, I don't have the ability to do it because I'm just an carpenter's assistant without any university degree like you, I just tried to make a good presentation spreadsheet and the formula I used is as it.
Please take a look at this site:
http://www.education.eth.net/acads/physics/light-X.htm
I'm sure you understand the formula better than I.
I don't know why the result was biased up to 20", maybe it was influenced by the fresnel type or the optic shape you use, maybe this formula can explain why:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/geoopt/lenmak.html
Or maybe I should write "all result is approximate only and can biased more than 100" in my spreadsheet.
If you satisfied with your LOA result, fine, I just want to show you how much lumens needed by a good commercial projector. Please take a look at this site:
http://www.unitedvisual.com/2faq/2faq1.asp
and this quote, I can't find the site:
BRIGHTNESS:
LCD type using metal halide arc lamp, which is far brighter than the CRT type, you can even watch it without turning the light off. We are using a 250W metal halide arc light projector; the brightness could reach up to 550 ANSI lumen.
A good illumination source has to satisfy the need of efficiency, color rendering, color temperature, lifetime, stability, and safety. Light bulbs have options like halogen, xenon, metal halide, etc. Metal halide is the most appropriate one to adapt in the illumination system because of its high efficiency (generally 60-80 lm/watt, Xenon light is around 20-30lm/watt), high color performance (generally 75), high color temperature (generally around 6000K) and short arc gap (shorter than 6mm).
There are three types of reflectors, spherical mirror, parabolic mirror and elliptical mirror, parabolic mirror . Spherical mirror mostly use on single panel LCD projection system in the early days, went with halogen lamp and aspherical condenser of high numerical aperture mirror to build up the single panel system. Parabolic mirror mostly use on 3-panel 3.1¡¨amorphous-TFT LCD, considering the capital, collection efficiency and the incident light should have good _㪽©Ê. Although elliptical mirror has better collection efficiency, somehow it¡¦s hard to produce and the capital is high.
see you.
thank you for your information regarding the "flaw".
I made the calculation from general rules of optic, I didn't create the formula myself, I don't have the ability to do it because I'm just an carpenter's assistant without any university degree like you, I just tried to make a good presentation spreadsheet and the formula I used is as it.
Please take a look at this site:
http://www.education.eth.net/acads/physics/light-X.htm
I'm sure you understand the formula better than I.
I don't know why the result was biased up to 20", maybe it was influenced by the fresnel type or the optic shape you use, maybe this formula can explain why:
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/geoopt/lenmak.html
Or maybe I should write "all result is approximate only and can biased more than 100" in my spreadsheet.
If you satisfied with your LOA result, fine, I just want to show you how much lumens needed by a good commercial projector. Please take a look at this site:
http://www.unitedvisual.com/2faq/2faq1.asp
and this quote, I can't find the site:
BRIGHTNESS:
LCD type using metal halide arc lamp, which is far brighter than the CRT type, you can even watch it without turning the light off. We are using a 250W metal halide arc light projector; the brightness could reach up to 550 ANSI lumen.
A good illumination source has to satisfy the need of efficiency, color rendering, color temperature, lifetime, stability, and safety. Light bulbs have options like halogen, xenon, metal halide, etc. Metal halide is the most appropriate one to adapt in the illumination system because of its high efficiency (generally 60-80 lm/watt, Xenon light is around 20-30lm/watt), high color performance (generally 75), high color temperature (generally around 6000K) and short arc gap (shorter than 6mm).
There are three types of reflectors, spherical mirror, parabolic mirror and elliptical mirror, parabolic mirror . Spherical mirror mostly use on single panel LCD projection system in the early days, went with halogen lamp and aspherical condenser of high numerical aperture mirror to build up the single panel system. Parabolic mirror mostly use on 3-panel 3.1¡¨amorphous-TFT LCD, considering the capital, collection efficiency and the incident light should have good _㪽©Ê. Although elliptical mirror has better collection efficiency, somehow it¡¦s hard to produce and the capital is high.
see you.
Re: sharp panel
On the side of the panel there should be a switch for PAL or NTSC Switch the small black switch to NTSC and see if that works.
braxton said:
On the side of the panel there should be a switch for PAL or NTSC Switch the small black switch to NTSC and see if that works.
You might also want to make sure you are hooking your vga up correctly. There are two ports a 26 pin connector where the computer input goes in and a standard hd 15. If you do not plug into the 26 pin connnector vga will not work. If you don't have a connector check out the Panel Paranoia! VGA cable -» need help thread in this forum.
the 1000W bulb I am picking up will have somewhere in the neighborhood of 110,000 lumens with a life of 10,000 hours. After 5,000 hours of use, the lumen output will be around 90,000, and nearing the end of its life, it could be as low as 75,000 lumens.
that means, it will be triple the brightness of my 36,000 lumen 400W bulb, which actually makes it an even more efficient bulb. 110 lumens per watt, compared to 90 lumens per watt. That means it will probably only be about 104.5% hotter than my 400W bulb was - which I actually bumped into on several occaisions and didnt get burned. I can deal with that increase in heat. Its still not nearly as hot as even a 300W halogen, which people are STILL using.
It will cost about $40 to replace. I needed a cheap solution guys. $120 might seem like a big initial cost. But, I'm looking as the big picture here. I am planning on having this thing on at least 5 hours a day. It needs to be bright enough for mid-day use with blinds pulled. I cant afford a commercial projectors bulbs (would be ~$600.00 a year), and even the small overhead projector lamps (would be ~$250.00/year). This gives me more than 5 years of use out of a single $40 bulb. That is only $7.40 a year lighting cost.
Of course, I'm sure my electric bill will go up. Each hour I run it, it will be $.0825 or so I think (guessing from a bill I paid the other day.) compared to most peoples lower wattage setups that will only be ~$.035. Still, .0825 * 5 * 365 = $150.56, compared to the current $40.00 a year we are spending to run our 32 inch TV. Thats a $110.00/year increase, but, add it to my $7.40 annual light bulb bill, and I get away with a projector brighter than all of the OHP's and some commercial projectors,
for only $118.00 a year, or about $9.83 per month.
that means, it will be triple the brightness of my 36,000 lumen 400W bulb, which actually makes it an even more efficient bulb. 110 lumens per watt, compared to 90 lumens per watt. That means it will probably only be about 104.5% hotter than my 400W bulb was - which I actually bumped into on several occaisions and didnt get burned. I can deal with that increase in heat. Its still not nearly as hot as even a 300W halogen, which people are STILL using.
It will cost about $40 to replace. I needed a cheap solution guys. $120 might seem like a big initial cost. But, I'm looking as the big picture here. I am planning on having this thing on at least 5 hours a day. It needs to be bright enough for mid-day use with blinds pulled. I cant afford a commercial projectors bulbs (would be ~$600.00 a year), and even the small overhead projector lamps (would be ~$250.00/year). This gives me more than 5 years of use out of a single $40 bulb. That is only $7.40 a year lighting cost.
Of course, I'm sure my electric bill will go up. Each hour I run it, it will be $.0825 or so I think (guessing from a bill I paid the other day.) compared to most peoples lower wattage setups that will only be ~$.035. Still, .0825 * 5 * 365 = $150.56, compared to the current $40.00 a year we are spending to run our 32 inch TV. Thats a $110.00/year increase, but, add it to my $7.40 annual light bulb bill, and I get away with a projector brighter than all of the OHP's and some commercial projectors,
for only $118.00 a year, or about $9.83 per month.
spherical reflector
Hi all,
I just finished my first experiment with spherical type reflector.
I used spherical reflector type, as I said before, it is very easy to find.
I used, what do you call it "soup spoon?" (fig.1), it has perfect spherical shape with around 2" diameter, made from very shiny chromed finish.
I placed the lamp at 1 r of spoon radius, the reflector will reflect back the light at near lamp's filament (point light source).
the result was wonderful, no hotspot at all sides of projected beam. Of course it still has wasted light in between the reflector and the fresnel panel, that's why I'm going to try the second experiment:
I will use perfect spherical shape frying pan (12"dia.) made from stainless steel with mirror finish as main reflector and perfect spherical shape small "sugar/tea spoon?" chromed finish (1/2" dia.) as secondary reflector (foig. 2).
The lamp will be placed at 1/2 r of frying pan to produce parallel light, in front of the lamp will be placed small reflector at a distance 1 r of the spoon to reflect back the light as first experiment (fig.1).
With this type of reflector, I no longer need fresnel panel, since the light beam already parallel rays when hit the LCD panel. It still has wasted light in between the main reflector and the secondary reflector, but it's not much as first experiment type. How about coldspot at the center of the lamp because of small reflector?
I think it will be reduced by light rays splitters around it, since this can't produce 100% parallel light.
Any comment?
Hi all,
I just finished my first experiment with spherical type reflector.
I used spherical reflector type, as I said before, it is very easy to find.
I used, what do you call it "soup spoon?" (fig.1), it has perfect spherical shape with around 2" diameter, made from very shiny chromed finish.
I placed the lamp at 1 r of spoon radius, the reflector will reflect back the light at near lamp's filament (point light source).
the result was wonderful, no hotspot at all sides of projected beam. Of course it still has wasted light in between the reflector and the fresnel panel, that's why I'm going to try the second experiment:
I will use perfect spherical shape frying pan (12"dia.) made from stainless steel with mirror finish as main reflector and perfect spherical shape small "sugar/tea spoon?" chromed finish (1/2" dia.) as secondary reflector (foig. 2).
The lamp will be placed at 1/2 r of frying pan to produce parallel light, in front of the lamp will be placed small reflector at a distance 1 r of the spoon to reflect back the light as first experiment (fig.1).
With this type of reflector, I no longer need fresnel panel, since the light beam already parallel rays when hit the LCD panel. It still has wasted light in between the main reflector and the secondary reflector, but it's not much as first experiment type. How about coldspot at the center of the lamp because of small reflector?
I think it will be reduced by light rays splitters around it, since this can't produce 100% parallel light.
Any comment?
Attachments
Re: Re: sharp panel
It was me that posted the problem months ago.
I had tried all the switches on the side, but still black and white.
It turns out the video board inside the panel was somewhat loose or had a loose connection somewhere- figured it out since once I wiggled the board I got color temporarily. When I placed a piece of foam under the board, and reassembled, the color worked fine.
Just thought this might help others...
However, Zero alias is also right- there is a switch on the side that will give color or B/W, but that was not my problem.
Thanks again for the feedback!
Braxton
Zero Alias said:
It was me that posted the problem months ago.
I had tried all the switches on the side, but still black and white.
It turns out the video board inside the panel was somewhat loose or had a loose connection somewhere- figured it out since once I wiggled the board I got color temporarily. When I placed a piece of foam under the board, and reassembled, the color worked fine.
Just thought this might help others...
However, Zero alias is also right- there is a switch on the side that will give color or B/W, but that was not my problem.
Thanks again for the feedback!
Braxton
Message to Marklar
Hello,
I just checked out your web site. That is a very professional looking projector. On your FAQ, you say you will be selling them. I know I will be buying one. Maybe you could sell a do-it-yourself kit. Anyway, just wanted to say Great job.
Hello,
I just checked out your web site. That is a very professional looking projector. On your FAQ, you say you will be selling them. I know I will be buying one. Maybe you could sell a do-it-yourself kit. Anyway, just wanted to say Great job.
Re: Message to Marklar
Yes if I can get ahold of quality parts I will be makeing some all my friends want one. I just need to find the rights parts to make a good projector, I wouldnt sell mine cuz its well my first and its not perfect. Soon as I get some money Im gonna get one of those small LCDs and try a few different kind of lower wattage bulb. We'll see how it turns out. 😛
pumkindrvr said:
Yes if I can get ahold of quality parts I will be makeing some all my friends want one. I just need to find the rights parts to make a good projector, I wouldnt sell mine cuz its well my first and its not perfect. Soon as I get some money Im gonna get one of those small LCDs and try a few different kind of lower wattage bulb. We'll see how it turns out. 😛
uvodee &everyone else
okay so here is a thought --
We know many people have gotten the fish-eye projection using the CRT lenses.... we know many people have gotten washed out images using the fluorex lights... how many people have tried and gotten bad results using BOTH the CRT lens and fluorex light in the same setup?
Maybe this is why some people have success and others dont?
UVODEE:
have some other questions for you -- is there a way i could contact you via email?
Jay
okay so here is a thought --
We know many people have gotten the fish-eye projection using the CRT lenses.... we know many people have gotten washed out images using the fluorex lights... how many people have tried and gotten bad results using BOTH the CRT lens and fluorex light in the same setup?
Maybe this is why some people have success and others dont?
UVODEE:
have some other questions for you -- is there a way i could contact you via email?
Jay