I moved over to Celestion Ditton 44s, which have similar characteristics to Tannoy DC paper-cones, in my opinion, but I am moving towards open baffle ideas now.
I like the DualConcentric part of my Tannoys more than the paper-cone part but obviously I want both. Ideally I'd soffit mount them (they have their backs on the wall now) which really wouldn't work with open baffles.
Hi all i think i am going to put a port of some sort on these speakers as i have messed about with wadding and other sound deadening materials and i still think the speakers lack that very bottom end allso i think thay sound a boxy and closed in.Any tips how big to make the port and if it should be on the front or the back or should i just try and copy the tannoy 3000
I would port them on the front, right bang in the middle of the lower section, and make it about 60mm in diameter, with a plastic insert with rolloff at the front. Adjusting the length of the tube is something to experiment with, but I would start at 120mm in those boxes.
I would port them on the front, right bang in the middle of the lower section, and make it about 60mm in diameter, with a plastic insert with rolloff at the front. Adjusting the length of the tube is something to experiment with, but I would start at 120mm in those boxes.
Hi thanks lucas for help sorry to sound silly but is a roll off the rounded shape on the port tube. I am new to speaker building and this is my first project im pritty good at the cabinet building but not so good when it comes to the design or technical side of things. Thats why i more or less copied the 3000
You could try something fairly standard, like from this range:
https://www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=26_46&osCsid=3lje3m693ekdcn3hn8vn6d9080
A fairly medium one, like the first on the list is what I'd be inclined to use, or the 54mm x 140mm.
https://www.wilmslow-audio.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=26_46&osCsid=3lje3m693ekdcn3hn8vn6d9080
A fairly medium one, like the first on the list is what I'd be inclined to use, or the 54mm x 140mm.
Hi all i have just been reading this thread Tannoy DC2000/3000
and some one mentioned that the cross overs on 2000 and 3000 have differant part numbers does any one know if both speakers use the same crossovers as that may be why mine dont sound as good as thay should
and some one mentioned that the cross overs on 2000 and 3000 have differant part numbers does any one know if both speakers use the same crossovers as that may be why mine dont sound as good as thay should
http://www.44bx.com/tannoy/modelarchive.htmlHi all i have just been reading this thread Tannoy DC2000/3000
and some one mentioned that the cross overs on 2000 and 3000 have differant part numbers does any one know if both speakers use the same crossovers as that may be why mine dont sound as good as thay should
They have different codes. Don't know exact configuration.Model: DC2000
Year: 1988-91
Dual Concentric: 2025GG
Dual Concentric Size: 8"
High Frequency: 2025/S
High Frequency Size: 25mm
Low Frequency: 2026GG
Low Frequency Size: 8"
Crossover Code: 1107
Spares: Available
Model: DC3000
Year: 1989-91
Dual Concentric: 2025GG
Dual Concentric Size: 8"
High Frequency: 2025/S
High Frequency Size: 25mm
Low Frequency: 2026GG
Low Frequency Size: 8"
Crossover Code: 1108
Spares: Available
...To start with, the (optimum) configuration (xover/output curves) is not the same between a BR and a closed box. Maybe you know this from playing with simulations.
Besides that, sensitivity (92dB) and crossover frequency (400/2.3KHz) seem to be the same.
http://www.hilberink.nl/tannoy2/brochure-series90.pdf
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Tannoy Model Number Archive
They have different codes. Don't know exact configuration.
...To start with, the (optimum) configuration (xover/output curves) is not the same between a BR and a closed box. Maybe you know this from playing with simulations.
Besides that, sensitivity (92dB) and crossover frequency (400/2.3KHz) seem to be the same.
http://www.hilberink.nl/tannoy2/brochure-series90.pdf
Thanks inducter thats interesting not sure what to do now then as i thought the crossovers would be same but from the info you have posted there is a differance. I have not done any simulations as im a novice and would not know were to start perhaps i should have just bought some ready made speakers
You seem to be ok. You are just a halfway. You are on the adjustments. It might take you 1 or 2 years.😀😀😎Thanks inducter thats interesting not sure what to do now then as i thought the crossovers would be same but from the info you have posted there is a differance. I have not done any simulations as im a novice and would not know were to start perhaps i should have just bought some ready made speakers
At this stage, relate to post#2 - the "boxy" sound - and post your results, as Alan said, with the wool material.
As a second experience (I'm not simulating/what about for a test?) try a small inductor (0.4/1mH) on the lower woofer.
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You seem to be ok. You are just a halfway. You are on the adjustments. It might take you 1 or 2 years.😀😀😎
Thanks inducter hope your right. Do you think i will ever get these speakers sounding perfect😕
You have everything for it. I don't see why not.🙂Thanks inducter hope your right. Do you think i will ever get these speakers sounding perfect😕
Sometimes there is no feedback, and that's important for good results.
Hi all can any one tell me how long it takes for new capasitors to burn in as i have upgraded the orogonal tannoy ones for some monocore ones and i have noticed that the top trebble is very harsh. At when i first switch my system on and start listening the sound isn''t too bad but gets worse after about 30 minutes i have allso made some pure silver inter conects to link the the amp to the cd player could these be the cause of the problem not burned in yet. The speaker caps and silver leads have been in about 2 weeks and had about 12 hours usage any help would be great
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