Hi all thought i would post some pics of my diy dc3000 here are the build pics, The sound is pritty good but thay sound a little boxy do you think i should add a port of some kind i know the origonal tannoy dc 3000 had a sloted port on the back but i have not put one on. What sound differance would a port make this is my first diy speaker project. Any help would be great
Attachments
needs more internal sound absorbing material
Before you cut any holes for ports, I recommend you add some better absorbent substance to both the driver chambers and listen.
More absorbent, when suitably installed, will reduce the "boxy" sound.
Long-haired wool is best, or try the apparently similar wadding sold under the Soniqs brand name.
For Soniqs, look in:
www.world-designs.co.uk
Fibreglass, such as easily available from Hardware shops as roofing batts can be got to work well,
and somewhat better is Rockwool or Mineral Wool -{the same substance is known by both names}.
I will describe how to best position any absorbent if you want to try any of these.
Before you cut any holes for ports, I recommend you add some better absorbent substance to both the driver chambers and listen.
More absorbent, when suitably installed, will reduce the "boxy" sound.
Long-haired wool is best, or try the apparently similar wadding sold under the Soniqs brand name.
For Soniqs, look in:
www.world-designs.co.uk
Fibreglass, such as easily available from Hardware shops as roofing batts can be got to work well,
and somewhat better is Rockwool or Mineral Wool -{the same substance is known by both names}.
I will describe how to best position any absorbent if you want to try any of these.
Last edited:
Hi thanks for reply i forgot to take a pic of the finshed damping i did add some of the origonal white wading that was in the the speakers but only a couple of sheets in each. Thay were dc 2000 but i just built the biger box
layout is important
When you have time, take another Photo, or two, which show exactly how the white wadding is positioned in the cabinet, and Post the photo/s here.
Also, is it a semi-sealed surface wadding, or very open-weave surface ?
Type and positioning do make a difference to the sound.
When you have time, take another Photo, or two, which show exactly how the white wadding is positioned in the cabinet, and Post the photo/s here.
Also, is it a semi-sealed surface wadding, or very open-weave surface ?
Type and positioning do make a difference to the sound.
Hi its a white wading with fluffy fure texture on both sides. In the unit that holds the tweter i have folded one from side to side and another bottom to top in an arc shape if you know what i mean and in the bottom one were the bass unit is i have just put one piece of wadding in same as the others in an arc shape. I have about 4 pieces left i did not put any wadding in the very bottom just the thick rubber carpet underlay
I use white massam tops from these people for stuffing:
Wingham Wool Work - Quality Fibres and Accessories
Wingham Wool Work - Quality Fibres and Accessories
Hi thanks for the link i still have some from the origanal tannoy speakers but not shure how tightly to pack the chambers, Is it just a case of keep adding till it sounds right. Do i add to both chambers or just the bass chamber
Both I'd say. Experimenting is the key here.
If you decide to port them you will need to leave a stuffing-free path between the driver(s) and the port.
I use Black Jack DPM to attach the damping material.
www.toolbank.com | Everproof DPM 5 Litre 908
If you decide to port them you will need to leave a stuffing-free path between the driver(s) and the port.
I use Black Jack DPM to attach the damping material.
www.toolbank.com | Everproof DPM 5 Litre 908
Yes, adding a port would give you better bass extension. All their drivers are designed to be ported.
To determine the port area and length you need the Thiele/Small parameters.
Unfortunately I can't find them anywhere hence I suggest you contact Roger at Lockwood Audio.co.uk. He is very helpful and if anybody knows it'll be him. Lockwood have been working with Tannoy for about 50 years now and are the only Tannoy accredited supplier of spares for all drivers no matter how old.
To determine the port area and length you need the Thiele/Small parameters.
Unfortunately I can't find them anywhere hence I suggest you contact Roger at Lockwood Audio.co.uk. He is very helpful and if anybody knows it'll be him. Lockwood have been working with Tannoy for about 50 years now and are the only Tannoy accredited supplier of spares for all drivers no matter how old.
Hi thanks a lot mate i will ask him then. Is it the size and length of the port i need, These speaker cabinets are same volume as the dc 3000 so could i just copy the position and size of port from them. I took the drivers cross overs from some tannoy dc 2000 i had i think thay share the same parts just a biger cabinet
I'd say if the original speakers were separated do it, if not don't bother.
Having both in the same compartment should be the same as having two woofers in one box. The woofer should be the same as the DualConcentric minus the tweeter.The tweeter itself does not open to the rear so it will be unaffected either way.
Again I suspect Roger would know more.
Having both in the same compartment should be the same as having two woofers in one box. The woofer should be the same as the DualConcentric minus the tweeter.The tweeter itself does not open to the rear so it will be unaffected either way.
Again I suspect Roger would know more.
Although I agree that adding a port will give better bass extension, and personally I wouldn't hesitate, (except to do critical research
)I have had a pair of the 611s, which superseded this model, and they had no ports. Sealed box. Two speakers - 1x DC 8" & 1x dedicated bass 8"Hi all thanks again for your help i have sorter put devider from concentric driver and bass driver. Remember i took these out of dc 2000 which were not bad sounding but a bit bass lacking and i found the midrange a bit compresed. The sound with these biger cabinet tannoys is more open and natural but for me lacking that bottom end whichi exspected to be better. Thought i would mention that im feeding the speakers with a modified cd67 and 41hz amp which is great
Iknow what you mean i would rather put the port in the front then i wont have to worry about distance from wall too much. But how much could it change the sound of the speakers if i put the port on the front instead of the back
Although I agree that adding a port will give better bass extension, and personally I wouldn't hesitate, (except to do critical research
You might be right there and I hang my head in shame!
In my defense the next model down in the Sixes series is ported and the model up uses a passive radiator and although I am somewhat of a Tannoy aficionado my interests lie mostly with their paper-coned drivers of 10" or more in diameter. I ended up with two LittleReds and a pair of DC4000s. Porting is essential for those as otherwise they start to roll off at 150Hz.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.