New year, new project to obsess over. This time a subwoofer with a plate amp.
I’m starting with the amp, so far I have decided on a mosfet amp for no particular reason, using 6pairs of 1943/2500 fets. Should get around 400-500w at 8ohm 70vDc supply.
I will be adding an active LPF but don’t yet know if it will be built into the amp or in a separate case with an additional HPF.
Just a basic RC filter in front of an op-amp, but still trying to get my head around summing the stereo input with added resistors and how this will effect the cut off point of the chosen RC, needs a bit of experimentation I think. I would like to add a gain pot and a clipping indicator to the LPF as well
I’m as yet undecided on which sub to use but dual 4ohm automotive subs seem miles cheeper than anything I can find for home use at that power rating.
Couldn’t find a plate amp chassis for under £150 or anywhere near the UK so am making one. So far I got a 300x150 aluminium heat sink (£16 from futureeden.com) and have bolted it to a 300x300x3mm aluminium plate (£7 ebay) with some heatsink compound between.
I’m starting with the amp, so far I have decided on a mosfet amp for no particular reason, using 6pairs of 1943/2500 fets. Should get around 400-500w at 8ohm 70vDc supply.
I will be adding an active LPF but don’t yet know if it will be built into the amp or in a separate case with an additional HPF.
Just a basic RC filter in front of an op-amp, but still trying to get my head around summing the stereo input with added resistors and how this will effect the cut off point of the chosen RC, needs a bit of experimentation I think. I would like to add a gain pot and a clipping indicator to the LPF as well
I’m as yet undecided on which sub to use but dual 4ohm automotive subs seem miles cheeper than anything I can find for home use at that power rating.
Couldn’t find a plate amp chassis for under £150 or anywhere near the UK so am making one. So far I got a 300x150 aluminium heat sink (£16 from futureeden.com) and have bolted it to a 300x300x3mm aluminium plate (£7 ebay) with some heatsink compound between.
To avoid having the stereo to mono summing influencing the crossover, use a buffer stage between them. Furthermore I would like to advise using a fourth order low pass and a second order high pass, instead of first order RC stages. A fourth order low pass is necessary to avoid localization of the subwoofer. Linkwitz-Riley is common (two 2nd order Butterworth stages cascaded). A second order high pass is sufficient to protect the woofer while higher orders add unnecessary ringing. The high pass can have a high Q if the woofer needs some boost at the lowest frequencies.
+1.
Inconceivable today to add a sub without using DSP, such as the bargain-priced Behringer DCX2496 with unmeasurable distortion and every feature you need and more. Good ones on eBay second-hand.
B.
Inconceivable today to add a sub without using DSP, such as the bargain-priced Behringer DCX2496 with unmeasurable distortion and every feature you need and more. Good ones on eBay second-hand.
B.
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