Alright after lots of searching I managed to find an audio shop in Italy that sells all the components I need to build The Tributes. Both drivers, crossover components and everything is in stock which I am really happy about. And because Italy is right next to Slovenia shipping is really fast and low cost.
They are total of 295 with shipping included. I will get the MDF from local store and I am thinking of using 19mm or 3/4 inch thickness. From past projects experience wood should cost me about 20euro. So that sums up to about 320euro and I find it an amazing price.
Now I just have to convince my dad to let me to use his paypal...hope it won't be a problem.
EDIT: Just a quick question, I would need a 0.80mH inductor but they only sell 0.82mH. Will that be a huge problem? Also does inductor AD resistance and AWG matter? I couldn't find any info for Tributes but the store has 1mm diameter 0.52ohm DC resistance inductor.
They are total of 295 with shipping included. I will get the MDF from local store and I am thinking of using 19mm or 3/4 inch thickness. From past projects experience wood should cost me about 20euro. So that sums up to about 320euro and I find it an amazing price.
Now I just have to convince my dad to let me to use his paypal...hope it won't be a problem.
EDIT: Just a quick question, I would need a 0.80mH inductor but they only sell 0.82mH. Will that be a huge problem? Also does inductor AD resistance and AWG matter? I couldn't find any info for Tributes but the store has 1mm diameter 0.52ohm DC resistance inductor.
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I also messed with the enclosure design in WinISD a bit and modeled couple different boxes. The default one is which is also in the guide is 14l tuned to 38hz. But when I first loaded the driver in program it gave me a 28l box tuned to 35hz which has much flatter response and has f3 at 36hz and f10 at 27hz compared to default one with f3 at 49hz and f10 at 33.5hz. Default one also has a small bump of +0.9db at 90-100hz. Now my question is can I build a bigger enclosure or is there some deeper designing involved in there?
How about Proac 2.5. Search clones there are some nice builds around the net (best ones are in here 😛)
Hmmmm these seem like a nice pair but id honestly go with Tributes over them. I sometimes listen to electronic music and I honestly think newer design and components would suit purpose better. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Jeff Bagby's Tributes won a diy club crossover design competition where everyone used the SB17M/SB26 driver pair. You should be pleased with both sound quality and value. One of Jeff's goals was to use a series crossover which was tuned to the baffle size to provides some baffle step compensation(bass boost). The Tributes use a heavily over-stuffed vented box which creates an impedance curve that Jeff called a Quasi-transmission line.
If you want to build a larger volume box without significant changes in sound quality, you will want to keep the identical trapezoidal baffle shape and physical T + M spacings relative to the top baffle corners. There should only be minor sonic changes if you extend the box depth, or the box length below the woofer.
I suspect a simple rectangular baffle around 8" wide would sound good. I suspect using a router on the baffle edges would help sound quality. You can also move the port to the front, which will help for placement against a rear wall. This is diy... so learn from your experiments.
Tributes use 18 AWG air core inductors of 0.80mH. 0.82mH should be fine if 18 AWG or lower(thicker) wire
Tribute Speakers
Top 7” wide
Bottom 9” wide
Deep 10 ¾”
16” High
Tweeter center 4” down from top (+/- 1/8”)
Woofer center 9 3/4” down from top (+/- 1/8”)
¾” construction.
one narrow horizontal, and one narrow vertical brace
Driver flush mounted.
2" pipe 7.5" long rear port (8" kit length ok)
Write-up-On-The-Tributes.
https://app.box.com/s/1fnro0kvyekdl3drm0w1
If you want to build a larger volume box without significant changes in sound quality, you will want to keep the identical trapezoidal baffle shape and physical T + M spacings relative to the top baffle corners. There should only be minor sonic changes if you extend the box depth, or the box length below the woofer.
I suspect a simple rectangular baffle around 8" wide would sound good. I suspect using a router on the baffle edges would help sound quality. You can also move the port to the front, which will help for placement against a rear wall. This is diy... so learn from your experiments.
Tributes use 18 AWG air core inductors of 0.80mH. 0.82mH should be fine if 18 AWG or lower(thicker) wire
Tribute Speakers
Top 7” wide
Bottom 9” wide
Deep 10 ¾”
16” High
Tweeter center 4” down from top (+/- 1/8”)
Woofer center 9 3/4” down from top (+/- 1/8”)
¾” construction.
one narrow horizontal, and one narrow vertical brace
Driver flush mounted.
2" pipe 7.5" long rear port (8" kit length ok)
Write-up-On-The-Tributes.
https://app.box.com/s/1fnro0kvyekdl3drm0w1
Thank you. I had no idea about dimensions of box he used but volume. As you said I was thinking of making a bit larger box and probably tune it slightly lower. The response should flatten and speakers should theoretically go lower.
I wanted to make a rectangular box with front baffle about 22cm (8 1/2") wide. Because I want speakers closer to wall, I was thinking about making a front port. Can I make the front port sloted at the bottom of enclosure?
Again, this whole audiophile like building is new to me. I have designed simple sealed/vented boxes in past so I do have some experience but i never thought baffle shape has effect on sound.
For the last, how should I stuff the box if I change the enclosure dimensions and use a slot front port? I can order normal poly stuffing or poly/sheep wool (25%/75%) stuffing.
Yes but in reality the extension may not be worth much in real world use. If you look at the Maximum SPL plot you will see the SPL is limited below 100Hz by the cone exceeding maximum linear displacement. The port raises the output around the tuning frequency but there is something of a hole between there and 100Hz. The frequencies from 40-80Hz tend to contain more loud musical content than the 30-40 Hz range.
The flatness of the response at the lowest frequencies is fairly unimportant because the room will introduce large changes. If you equalise to improve the in room response then what matters is that the speakers have enough output around the frequencies where the output needs boosting.
Yes but the penalty is that whatever midrange grunge is coming out of the port will be more audible. The worst offender for a small midwoofer is usually the lowest compressible resonance of the port which WinISD estimates for you on the "Vents" panel.
A program like this will let you see how baffle shape changes the response and what the better designs compensate for in the crossover.
You need stuffing to absorb the rear midrange sound but the less stuffing you have around the ports the stronger will be the port output. Relative to the flat WinISD configuration, the designer of the Tributes has opted for substantial stuffing, a higher tuning frequency and a smaller box. These bring some advantages but at the cost of some low frequency extension when playing quietly.
I am considering a sub in near future anyway, probably a SB29NRX75-6 with SAM-300D amp in a 65l box tuned to about 23hz which gives f3 at 24 and f10 at 18hz so I could just use the default 14l box.
Now for the box, it should be fine to just make it rectangle instead of wide at bottom, narrow at top without huge sound changes right? I would keep volume, driver placement, port placement the same and stuff it like in original design.
That's a really interesting design. Series xo that is 2nd order Bessel and 1st order BW filters that are quasi transient perfext and an aperiodic quasi TL. I like the minimum parts count on the XO too.
The discussion by the designer here addresses the question of shape along with a few others such as the amount of baffle step included being on the low side and hence better suited to near wall positioning.
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