True, but even with subs he needs some bass output from satelites about 1 octave below crossoverpoint. At least in theory.
I have the 5” SBacoustics coax in 3 liter sealed boxes and they start to roll off at about 150 hz. With roomgain and a bit of EQ, they handle a 100 hz crossover just fine.
I have the 5” SBacoustics coax in 3 liter sealed boxes and they start to roll off at about 150 hz. With roomgain and a bit of EQ, they handle a 100 hz crossover just fine.
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I just did some quick measurements with my prototype box (ported 4.8 liter tuned to 60 Hz). The mic was placed about where the main listening position would be. The speaker was placed on a speaker stand flush against the wall, The two graphs are port open vs port plugged. The "sealed" box measures a bit flatter as expected.
You could still argue that you spare the driver of some work if used in a ported enclosure EQ'ed down. I just don't know if the tradeoff is worth it compared to the cleaner sound and smaller box of a sealed enclosure. Thoughts on this?
About the whole sub thing. I'm pretty sure most AVR's standard setup is to have the sub only play the LFE channel in surround mode. Of course you can manually set it to support the mains, but in my case, I have an old SVS SB12-NSD 12" sealed sub, and I've found that it doesn't integrate that well if crossed over with the mains above 60 Hz (at least for music). Therefore I will probably keep the sub in LFE mode, and want the surrounds to go as low as possible (probably high passed at around 80-100 Hz). But I digress.
You could still argue that you spare the driver of some work if used in a ported enclosure EQ'ed down. I just don't know if the tradeoff is worth it compared to the cleaner sound and smaller box of a sealed enclosure. Thoughts on this?
Most hometheaters are setup with bassmanagement in place. That sub of yours should be good for quite a bit higher than 60 hz. What are you using to EQ everything?
FIY, I run 15” horns for my LCR and still bassmanage them.
Note that the boominess of the port comes from its resonance and is fake/free bass whereas the wall boost is very real and occurs due to the wall preventing diffraction of sound around the speaker. One might think of it being similar to a large horn with a coverage angle of exactly 180* (flat horn).
Changing to sealed would still get you the wall boost (and headroom gain) and since the sealed box usually gives a tighter bass there's nothing to worry.
The sealed box also keeps the excursion under control as the subwoofer takes over and the natural roll-off is second order (vs fourth for the bass reflex).
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The speakers look great!
My room is small and it's in a basement where all of the walls including the floor are concrete, so I've had to put alot of absorbtion into the room and figure out were to place the couch to avoid room modes. It still isn't perfect but I'll have to live with it.
I actually haven't used bass management, are you thinking of auto calibration or manual? I was running a pair of Buchardt P300 and the sub from a Marantz Cinema 70S as a 2.1 for a while. When playing around with the crossover point I just felt it sounded best and most coherent at 60 Hz, but maybe I just need to play around with positioning a bit more. I have recently sold the Marantz Cinema due to financial reasons and repurposed the Buchardt P300 in the living room. I have bought a KEF Q250C center channel and two Q150 bookshelves and are looking for a used SONY or Denon receiver instead.
My room is small and it's in a basement where all of the walls including the floor are concrete, so I've had to put alot of absorbtion into the room and figure out were to place the couch to avoid room modes. It still isn't perfect but I'll have to live with it.
Well, I expected exactly that. And having the peaks 5-7dB lower is more than 'a bit flatter', I'd say.
Just keep in mind, if you use BR, you'll need a high pass anyway because below the fb the cone swings free and with getting the full range, the voice coil will hit the back pole plate on a deep impulse.