First off, I should start with a disclaimer saying THIS IS MY SECOND DIY PROJECT!
I am most certainly aware that this forum is full of much more knowledgeable, experienced folks, and I guess that this is exactly the reason why I am even posting this thread.
So, after this far too long prologue, let's dive right into it.
I have been lucky enough to get my hands on a couple of JBL 2206H drivers and an Eighteen Sound HD2000. A friend of mine owns a sound system, and these drivers were once part of two PA loudspeakers that are no longer in use.
The idea for this project is designing a new enclosure—one that would house the JBLs with a ported baffle, the HD2000 mounted freely on top, and a folded 15-inch subwoofer. ATM im looking at any subwoofer i could find aroung 120$ a piece (I'm on a low budget for this project)
I am looking for any tips, subwoofer suggestions that are budget-friendly, and anyone with experience who would love to give me good advice, etc.
I am most certainly aware that this forum is full of much more knowledgeable, experienced folks, and I guess that this is exactly the reason why I am even posting this thread.
So, after this far too long prologue, let's dive right into it.
I have been lucky enough to get my hands on a couple of JBL 2206H drivers and an Eighteen Sound HD2000. A friend of mine owns a sound system, and these drivers were once part of two PA loudspeakers that are no longer in use.
The idea for this project is designing a new enclosure—one that would house the JBLs with a ported baffle, the HD2000 mounted freely on top, and a folded 15-inch subwoofer. ATM im looking at any subwoofer i could find aroung 120$ a piece (I'm on a low budget for this project)
I am looking for any tips, subwoofer suggestions that are budget-friendly, and anyone with experience who would love to give me good advice, etc.
You will need a horn for the compression driver. A 120$ subwoofer that can be matched to these drivers doesn't exist.
Do a two way active first, then, if you like it and can spend a bit more, add a sub.
Do a two way active first, then, if you like it and can spend a bit more, add a sub.
That is true, a horn like the XT1464 horn will be neeeded for the HD2000, such a driver need a horn or a waveguide to function. The mid is very good, and can be used in as midbass to about 50Hz.
To find a subwoofer that fits it for 140 will be hard i think, most good subwoofers are way more expensive. The cheapest way to do that will be something like a Dayton Audio PA460-8, and that is already double your budget. To really keep up you need something like a 18Sound 18ND9300 or a RFC LF18X401 in the right cabinet or similar, and those ain't cheap.
The sugestion of Turbowatch2 to do the top first is not bad, you already got the drivers and can start with it. And safe some more for the subwoofers to do it at least decent.
To find a subwoofer that fits it for 140 will be hard i think, most good subwoofers are way more expensive. The cheapest way to do that will be something like a Dayton Audio PA460-8, and that is already double your budget. To really keep up you need something like a 18Sound 18ND9300 or a RFC LF18X401 in the right cabinet or similar, and those ain't cheap.
The sugestion of Turbowatch2 to do the top first is not bad, you already got the drivers and can start with it. And safe some more for the subwoofers to do it at least decent.
https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/18Sound/18ND9300
The 12" can be used up to 1500 Hz, the compression driver, depending on horn (!) down to 1000 Hz. So 1250 Hz may be a good idea with a horn going down to 1000 Hz. With CD's, the horn is just as important for low frequency reproduction as the driver.
You may not have realized how much you will have to pay for different passive x-over components, so an active version will come cheaper. If you want a really good result, active is even much cheaper. If you have 50 years of experience in PA and speaker building under your belt, that may not be 100% the case, but you seem to be a bloody beginner.
Have a look at the Wondom BRU5 amp on Aliexpress. They are two channels, but share a DSP. So for going active you need one for the left and right high and one amp for low left and right drivers. The GUI is not the most user friendly there is, but not as complicated as the usual Sigma Studio DSP programming.
So with two of them at 40$ each you got a flexible 4-channel 2-way active setup. OK, you need some 48V supply, if you go for a basic 600W SMPS that will be another maybe 50$. Do not worry about power, these drivers are pretty loud, so you won't ever use a fraction of the available power.
You will not be able to get the result of a DSP with a passive x-over, even if you spend 10 times the money.
Last, get a measuring microphone. Active or passive, you can not do it without. The cheapest useable option is the calibrated Dayton Audio for Android or iPhone solution.
You may not have realized how much you will have to pay for different passive x-over components, so an active version will come cheaper. If you want a really good result, active is even much cheaper. If you have 50 years of experience in PA and speaker building under your belt, that may not be 100% the case, but you seem to be a bloody beginner.
Have a look at the Wondom BRU5 amp on Aliexpress. They are two channels, but share a DSP. So for going active you need one for the left and right high and one amp for low left and right drivers. The GUI is not the most user friendly there is, but not as complicated as the usual Sigma Studio DSP programming.
So with two of them at 40$ each you got a flexible 4-channel 2-way active setup. OK, you need some 48V supply, if you go for a basic 600W SMPS that will be another maybe 50$. Do not worry about power, these drivers are pretty loud, so you won't ever use a fraction of the available power.
You will not be able to get the result of a DSP with a passive x-over, even if you spend 10 times the money.
Last, get a measuring microphone. Active or passive, you can not do it without. The cheapest useable option is the calibrated Dayton Audio for Android or iPhone solution.
Thanks, Turbowatch2, for the response.
A horn is needed, no doubt. I have the original horn that came with the HD2000s, but I am also looking at the moment for suitable replacements.
As for the crossover, I feel like it is still very early to decide since I just began taking my first steps into the enclosure planning and design. Woodworking is something I do have experience with.
I guess, though, that sooner rather than later, I will have to address this topic. But as a complete bloody beginner, I want to take small steps at a time since I have all the time in the world for this project.
I would also like to take this opportunity to ask: What would be better for the 12" driver—a bass reflex or a back-loaded horn? I do want to create an interesting design for this piece.
A horn is needed, no doubt. I have the original horn that came with the HD2000s, but I am also looking at the moment for suitable replacements.
As for the crossover, I feel like it is still very early to decide since I just began taking my first steps into the enclosure planning and design. Woodworking is something I do have experience with.
I guess, though, that sooner rather than later, I will have to address this topic. But as a complete bloody beginner, I want to take small steps at a time since I have all the time in the world for this project.
I would also like to take this opportunity to ask: What would be better for the 12" driver—a bass reflex or a back-loaded horn? I do want to create an interesting design for this piece.
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Interesting is good.
Bass Horns get pretty big. Im sure you know that.
If you got the space and time. I say go for it.
Having JBLs laying around, would encourage a easy answer. Build Both
I like the clunky plain black enclosures as much as artsy and creative builds.
Reflex is fast and easy, to get a 2 way going for a listen, while building a big fancy horn.
Depends on the style you enjoy. With space and time I like the industrial utility look.
Ugly boxes that went behind the screen are beautiful to me.
For subwoofer it is hard to match the sensitivity.
To make it work, it is just the usual active system you can adjust on the fly.
More power will be applied to the sub.
So the usual active system/crossover likely a plate type amp to make it simple.
Id say I would have a listen as just a 2 way.
Around here the GRS 12SW-4HE is pretty affordable, a lot of magnet and vented spider
Can buy 2 for your budget and apply extra power and adjust levels like any other sub.
Bass Horns get pretty big. Im sure you know that.
If you got the space and time. I say go for it.
Having JBLs laying around, would encourage a easy answer. Build Both
I like the clunky plain black enclosures as much as artsy and creative builds.
Reflex is fast and easy, to get a 2 way going for a listen, while building a big fancy horn.
Depends on the style you enjoy. With space and time I like the industrial utility look.
Ugly boxes that went behind the screen are beautiful to me.
For subwoofer it is hard to match the sensitivity.
To make it work, it is just the usual active system you can adjust on the fly.
More power will be applied to the sub.
So the usual active system/crossover likely a plate type amp to make it simple.
Id say I would have a listen as just a 2 way.
Around here the GRS 12SW-4HE is pretty affordable, a lot of magnet and vented spider
Can buy 2 for your budget and apply extra power and adjust levels like any other sub.
With the published specs i would make a reflex. It's most fit for it. But it will need a subwoofer to go real low. It may have quiet decent xmaxx to go low, but the Fs is to high for that. This is an oldschool midbass driver, ment to be crossed arround 80Hz or higher to a subwoofer.
For the subwoofer, you can consider using Rockville W15K9D2. This will fit your budget and provide good performance.
If you plan to run passive crossovers, you’ll need to match the crossover points carefully. The JBL 2206H can go up to 2-3kHz, but ideally, you want to cross over around 1.2-1.5kHz to the HD2000. Active crossovers (DSP-based like Behringer DCX2496 or MiniDSP 2x4 HD) are much more flexible and allow better tuning.
For amps, look at Behringer NX3000.
By the way, since you are into DIY audio electronics projects, you can give a try to this subwoofer amplifier someday. This one uses some common components like TDA2005.
https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/Subwoofer_amplifier_TDA2005_1808b7e8.html
The bass driver is made to go linear down to 50Hz in a vented cabinet. That may sound not much but will give you a great reproduction of rock music for example. A sound you are not used to hear from HIFI or HT speakers. The room does a great deal of amplifying the low end.
Concentrate on building a good vented cabinet, the horn will give you some restrictions how large it has to be. Look at the modern, large JBL horn + large 12" or 15" two way speakers, so you get an idea.
A horn for your CD will be expensive, please post data and / or picture of what you have got.
If you take my BRU5 advice serious, which is the best you can do on a budget without any compromise in audio quality and max volume, you will need a 2x15 or single 18" sub with at least an 300W rms amp, better make it 600W to keep up. Plate amps are low quality and expensive or very expensive. They look convenient for newbees, but are a waste of money. Anyway, focus on the 2-way and leave the sub for later. You may not want one if you do the main speaker right. Post your plan before building. Vented cabinets have to be solid and air tight, this is often not understood, because of the vent. Don't build a "test cabinet" as an excuse for an ugly, sloopy build from scrap materials. You don't need to test them, the drivers are great and will work perfectly in a well simulated cabinet. They are good enough for 10.000$ commercial power-HIFI products.
Concentrate on building a good vented cabinet, the horn will give you some restrictions how large it has to be. Look at the modern, large JBL horn + large 12" or 15" two way speakers, so you get an idea.
A horn for your CD will be expensive, please post data and / or picture of what you have got.
If you take my BRU5 advice serious, which is the best you can do on a budget without any compromise in audio quality and max volume, you will need a 2x15 or single 18" sub with at least an 300W rms amp, better make it 600W to keep up. Plate amps are low quality and expensive or very expensive. They look convenient for newbees, but are a waste of money. Anyway, focus on the 2-way and leave the sub for later. You may not want one if you do the main speaker right. Post your plan before building. Vented cabinets have to be solid and air tight, this is often not understood, because of the vent. Don't build a "test cabinet" as an excuse for an ugly, sloopy build from scrap materials. You don't need to test them, the drivers are great and will work perfectly in a well simulated cabinet. They are good enough for 10.000$ commercial power-HIFI products.