DIY project for Scan-Speak 15w/8530k01

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I made a good bargain for a set of Scan-Speak 15w/8530k01.
I want to build small speakers to go as my main speakers and buy tweeters that fits 'em good and parts for crossover and wood. At a later time I will also make a center speaker that sounds similiar.

Any recommendation for a DIY project using these Scan-Speak bass/mid units? I want the speaker to be maximum 40 cm high or something.
Thanks.
 
Crossover is, according to the design, internal, but it's up to the builder to make the final choice.

The crossover design has to be bought from AOS, they're making a living out of it. Send the guy a mail for a quote.

I built the Studio 24 (4 x 15w/9530, 2x D9800). I bought the drivers there, and got the crossover design thrown in the package. This was a very good deal for me, since the drivers themselves were much more expensive here.

Gert
 
The 8530K01

works well in an sealer LS3/5a sized enclosure. Points to watch out for with this driver are:-

1) Sensitivity. At 84.5dB it isn't very sensitive. Best to avoid valve amps unless you like listening really quietly.

2) There is a broad response plateau at 2Khz and above. It is a bit like a baffle step and can be compensated for in the same way...

I'd match the with a good soft dome scanspeak tweeter 93000 and above. Since there is a big drop between woofer and tweeter sensitivity, the capacitorless "Acoustic Reality" crossover works well. (Acoustic Reality use the scanspeak drivers themselves)
 
k00

has a lower Qts than K01. If you do some investigation, you will discover that 1.75 ohms in series with K00 is almost identical in terms of Qts and efficiency to K01.

If you are doing a free space sealed speaker then K01 is the one to have. If you want to put the speaker against a wall or have a ported speaker, then you are probably better off with K00.

Richard (sealed Linn Kan copy based on K00) - the speakers go against a wall, so the lower Q helps to stop the speaker booming.
 
I work on the solen ultimate revelation as well, but until now I’m a little disappointed. At least I expected a little more from it. I still experimenting with the filter cause I think that 18dB for a woofer is a little overdone. At this point I have 18dB for the tweeter and 6 dB for the woofer and I’m pretty satisfied but still I’m missing something and don’t know exact what. What is a little weird I think about the speaker is that I think the filter is a little too theoretical. If I put the data from the drivers in LSPcad I get exactly the same values for all the filter components. Normally after a little experimenting you change at least some values I would think.
Last point is that the bass port is making pretty much noise. Maybe a smaller cabinet with a shorter port would give a better result?
 
OK

If you put a resistor in series with a bass driver...

1) you get less efficiency because some of the power is burned off by the resistor.

2) system Q increases because the amplifier can exert less control of the driver at resonance.

Another way of thinking about this is the resistor acts as a voltage divider in conjunction with the bass driver. At resonance the driver will have a high impdence, so the voltage driver will reduce the voltage much less, increasing output from the driver at resonance...

If you take a K00 and put a 1.75 ohm resistor in series (better make that a hi wattage resistor), then the system Q and efficiency come out the same as a K01. You would expect this as the K01 is a K00 with a magnet that isn't as strong, so the underlying parameters will be similar...

Of course, your bass driver will have a higher impedence than the K01.

You can get a bit of series resistance by using smaller gauge wires in your inductors. You can use this to dial in small changes of driver Q to any bass driver.
 
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