DIY planar using aluminized mylar

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Hey man Henry, I really dont have your ability @ this point. I am in awe of your work.
I am just hoping to get this 1 ribbon fixed and move on from there.
I have a circuit writer pen coming, I hope to find and fill that break in the line of that connector and re assemble it.
I guess I could get tape and stick onto mylar and make a new ribbon, but seriously find it rather daunting.
Cool.
Srinath.
 
I have tried double diaphragms, but it wasn't worth the extra work and expense, I have even built a full range planar using cheap plastic magnet strip 3 mm thick and 1/2" wide which sounded great and was amazingly sensitive, compared to neo and ferrite magnets. We live and learn and I'm still learning even after 20 years of working with speakers!! My son used some software to work out that the gap between the NS magnets should be between 3 and 4 mm. I will have to try this, but I'm not convinced.
 
Hey man Henry, I really dont have your ability @ this point. I am in awe of your work.
I am just hoping to get this 1 ribbon fixed and move on from there.
I have a circuit writer pen coming, I hope to find and fill that break in the line of that connector and re assemble it.
I guess I could get tape and stick onto mylar and make a new ribbon, but seriously find it rather daunting.
Cool.
Srinath.
Go on have a go it's easy, still I have stuck on over thousand meters and counting, have a few more ideas in the pipeline, will get round to it eventually!
Have had to turn the bass down 4 Db on my ONKYO Amp, too loud, beggars belief.
 
Well a few too many problems ...
3mm wide aluminized mylar - well, I am finding nothing narrower than 12 mm ...
I had some aluminized mylar I thought but I think it wasn't real aluminum, it never showed any resistance (as in it was open - like regular mylar).
I will look through your posts some more. Maybe I am missing something, but the carver repair job I would like to do doesn't involve a new ribbon, I hope to fix it as it sits and get it done.
Cool.
Srinath.
 
the masking shop i used for tympani's 1d get the 5 mm width ad 2 extra turns and you end up with 8 ohm, you can use the 3 mm for tweeters. its pretty thin. metalized wont work way to high resistance and probable mentioned few times already.

its painstaking making 26 turns from one roll of 50 meters. i calculated the resistance from raw aluminum square cube 1 meter x 1 meter back to 5 mm width 5 micron thick. it came prety close to the measured resistance with a cheap ohm meter.

do the same and you know with whast kind of resistance you wille end up. beter even is get few diferent widths 10 meters each measure it and devide or multiply by the amount you use in your design. the rolls are cheap so why not get some.
 
I don't get high resistance on my aluminimized mylar strip. Unless there are voids - creases or cracks - in the aluminized side, your relatively low resistance..

If I remember correctly, I was getting close to 1/2 ohm on a 3 foot length, 1/4" wide.

I will have to check again tonight.
 
I measured an open circuit with a wine bag - that is silver in color, but may not be aluminum truly. Thought since it was silver in color ...

OK so 1/2 ohm for 3ft 1/4" wide - OK if it was 1/8th wide it would be 1 ohm. The ribbon I have is probably closer to 54", its 48" with the wrinkles not 36, so I'd have ~1.5 ohm using your material.

I measure 4 ohm on the nose for the other 3. So your conductor has 2.66 X the Cross section area as mine assuming the material is the same.

If we halved the thickness, I would probably be fine there, cos I am bound to make some goof ups and cut spots too thin and I'd end up with close ...
Yours was 12 mil right ? so I should shoot for 6 mil.

Cool.
Srinath.
 
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