I have read about people printing to paper and then using a photocopier to get nice solid transparencies...
Sure its going to take a bit longer if you don't have one in the offiece or house... but it should save nicely on wasting transparencies...
Sure its going to take a bit longer if you don't have one in the offiece or house... but it should save nicely on wasting transparencies...
Just to back up the guys using transparancies and UV light, I have been using this method for years now and with just a single pass on the inkjet paper my PCBs always turn out perfect.
One thought - could you print direct onto plain copper clad board if your printer has a CD printing tray? Or would the ink get dissolved by the etch fluid?
One thought - could you print direct onto plain copper clad board if your printer has a CD printing tray? Or would the ink get dissolved by the etch fluid?
That's a great idea, but the ink would have to be water resistant. The reason toner works is because it has the polymeric binder that keeps the water out, but I am not sure if inkjet ink has similar physical properties.richie00boy said:One thought - could you print direct onto plain copper clad board if your printer has a CD printing tray? Or would the ink get dissolved by the etch fluid?
Anybody want to be a guinea pig? 😀 That sure would make things a lot easier!!!
One thought - could you print direct onto plain copper clad board if your printer has a CD printing tray? Or would the ink get dissolved by the etch fluid?
At Homebrew_PCBs they are currently doing experiments to see what works and what doesn't.
Regards
James
Oops!
Regarding the transparencies from MegaUK - JetStar Premium - I just discovered that only one side of the transparencies are coated to be printed on. I must have hade some luck this far, since I've only got good printouts (12-14 print approx). Now, when I printed on the wrong side, it was all a mess.
The blank side is not to be printed on; the coated side is somewhat bluish and matte compared to the other side. If you touch the transparencies in one corner (often not critical), it is much easier to move the fingers on the "bad", i e uncoated side, since the coating makes the fingers - as well as the ink - stick.
Just my $.02 to help others not ruining their expensive transparencies...
Regarding the transparencies from MegaUK - JetStar Premium - I just discovered that only one side of the transparencies are coated to be printed on. I must have hade some luck this far, since I've only got good printouts (12-14 print approx). Now, when I printed on the wrong side, it was all a mess.
The blank side is not to be printed on; the coated side is somewhat bluish and matte compared to the other side. If you touch the transparencies in one corner (often not critical), it is much easier to move the fingers on the "bad", i e uncoated side, since the coating makes the fingers - as well as the ink - stick.
Just my $.02 to help others not ruining their expensive transparencies...
Not a bad idea, but I am not aware of a material that can be sprayed through an injket nozzle that has enough conductivity to make good circuit boards this way. If you know of something, please share!eplpwr said:How 'bout printing the conductive traces directly to a "naked" epoxy laminate?
Just for interest, this is how I make mine.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=828688#post828688
Cheers
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=828688#post828688
Cheers
I'm saving up my money to buy a DGX Prototyper . No printing, no chemicals, no BS. 😀 Only problem is it costs an arm and a leg, but it's the cheapest one on the market
. They don't come cheap, and they are PC programable only,
, but I think I might be able to use VPC or get a crappy PC for free. 😀


Hi eplpwr,
Yes, your printer is a better solution than mine (HP 5652). I have had the opportunity to do some try with it, and I report that you get perfect transparencies in one pass, this using the Tartan 707 from 3M.
I suggest you to do a try. This Tartan costs here 19,90 Euro + VAT (here it is IVA quoted at 20%). You get 50 transparencies for your money. 😀
Obviously, it is sold in Sweden as in all Europe as far as I know.
Best regards
rephil
Yes, your printer is a better solution than mine (HP 5652). I have had the opportunity to do some try with it, and I report that you get perfect transparencies in one pass, this using the Tartan 707 from 3M.
I suggest you to do a try. This Tartan costs here 19,90 Euro + VAT (here it is IVA quoted at 20%). You get 50 transparencies for your money. 😀
Obviously, it is sold in Sweden as in all Europe as far as I know.
Best regards
rephil
DJ Exprice said:I'm saving up my money to buy a DGX Prototyper .




Yea, that is just a little out of my justifiable price range, but MAN would that be nice to have.
eplpwr said:How 'bout printing the conductive traces directly to a "naked" epoxy laminate?
Remarkably difficult, but possible. The major issue is not laying down the tracks but solderability. Usually, printed material has a polymeric binder which is the weak link, thermally speaking. If it survives solder temperatures, it tends to delaminate with very modest forces. Additionally, PTF inks tend to have a low conductivity; there are some workarounds, but they're exotic.
The "printed" circuits that work best are printed on a ceramic substrate, then fired. That's not very practical for home audio, I'm afraid.
btw , the direct printing method wont work , i just tried to put the transparency under water (inkjet printer) and all the ink washed away 😀
that way u can use the same transparency more then 1 time 😀
maybe the "photo" colors are better , i dont know yet ......
that way u can use the same transparency more then 1 time 😀
maybe the "photo" colors are better , i dont know yet ......
I've a feeling my HP deskjet with proper HP ink is water safe. One easy way to find out I guess...
hi SSS,
i have recently upgraded to hp1022 laser printer(earlier was hp1010).
i have used toner xfer and photoresist,both.
my hp 1010 did a great job for both methods.
and now my hp1022 is also working alike(better....cant say,but certainly like b4).
good results for both methods by both printers.
dear sagaverma,
i am from kanpur up i use toner transfer method from technova transparent sheet ,my problem is that when i press n peel that sheet the image on copper board is very dim .i want to dark and smooth image on board any suggesion plz send me my e mail is khan.shahid251@gmail.com
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