It's easy enough with a dual coil driver. Just treat each coil as a separate entity.
Done it once to fix a Tandy sub of that type. Used a big 15mH cored inductor on each woofer input, I had a couple of 9mH there and simply wound as much wire as I could onto each core using 2 lots of enameled wire and measured afterwards.
Wired as a .5 and a pass to the other speakers; so 2 in and 2 out but only one box, I could have done it as a second order but not cheaply.
But SLLXO I have no idea, Dave is the expert there
But it's so much cheaper and easier to do it in the digital domain
Done it once to fix a Tandy sub of that type. Used a big 15mH cored inductor on each woofer input, I had a couple of 9mH there and simply wound as much wire as I could onto each core using 2 lots of enameled wire and measured afterwards.
Wired as a .5 and a pass to the other speakers; so 2 in and 2 out but only one box, I could have done it as a second order but not cheaply.
But SLLXO I have no idea, Dave is the expert there
But it's so much cheaper and easier to do it in the digital domain
What is still not clear to me despite post #18:
Is there a separate amplifier or amplifier channel available for the subwoofer?
Is there a separate amplifier or amplifier channel available for the subwoofer?
Line level channel mixing + low pass filtering + single power amp + any available subwoofer, no need for dual coil or any special feature: 100 times easier cheaper faster than going the passive route.
Just saying.
Just saying.
If there is a dedicated amplifier (or amplifier channel) available for the subwoofer, then a line-level filter makes more sense than a loudspeaker-level filter. If not, I doubt that an extra 1000 W amplifier is cheaper than a couple of big inductors and capacitors.
Oh cool, I wasn’t sure if those were speaker or line level. Thanks!
I’ve decided on the Behringer FBQ1502HD, which has a sub XLR output with crossover, and 2 15 band EQ channels, so I can EQ my passive and active speakers seperately. For £90 it actually doesn’t seem too bad
I need to go for a dual voice coil sub so that I can change the impedance. In series 8ohm for home use and then wired in parallel for 2ohms for car amps
Cool, but then you can not use dual coil to mix right and left channels as was the original purpose,
* If it's a single subwoofer for stereo equipment, there is also the issue of mixing stereo down to mono. You need a double-voice-coil driver or two drivers for that when you use passive filters after the amplifier.
* It's easy enough with a dual coil driver. Just treat each coil as a separate entity.
Done it once to fix a Tandy sub of that type. Used a big 15mH cored inductor on each woofer input
it ends up becoming a single speaker which can handle a single amplifier, only its single impedance becomes 2 or 8 ohms.
You can use them as "2 separate left+right woofers" OR a single dual impedance one, but not both wirings at the same time.
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I tried that one before and the frequency adjustment did not adjusts the top frequency cutoff. I thought it was going to be the ultimate budget solution for powering my Voxel subwoofer with a cheap amp board but it ended up in the trash.
At the price of it I didn't know if it was working as designed and just wasn't designed well or if something was off. It would move things around a bit when I adjusted it.
Ridiculous. The accepted exposure time for this level in any 7-day period is 8 minutes... Do you understand the damage you would be doing to your hearing?
If you haven't yet, have your hearing tested to get an idea of any damage already inflicted so you can take steps to protect yourself, as aging also takes its toll regardless of noise exposure.
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