Im looking at making a new pair of front speakers. I have the tweeters which are Dayton pt2c's. Im thinking about making a big book shelf type speaker something similar to the Klipsch THX speakers but with the ribbons instead of the horns. Issue is these ribbons need to be crossed at 3k so from what i've gathered, if im going to do a 2 way, i have to use at most a 4" woofer/full range otherwise ill run into beaming... again lol. Beaming is real in case anyone thought it might not be that noticeable.. IT IS.
The question is, can i use say 4 Dayton DMA105-8's in each speaker running the same frequencies without running into issues? Since im having to use 4" drivers for a 2 way set up i think i might need as many as i can run because i like to play loud. In the future the plan is to cross those at 120hz or so to 2 Fi HT-1 18" subwoofers pushing 1200 watts appease. I want my neighbors to feel the black hole scene in Interstellar =] I like to spread the love lol.
Thanks all
The question is, can i use say 4 Dayton DMA105-8's in each speaker running the same frequencies without running into issues? Since im having to use 4" drivers for a 2 way set up i think i might need as many as i can run because i like to play loud. In the future the plan is to cross those at 120hz or so to 2 Fi HT-1 18" subwoofers pushing 1200 watts appease. I want my neighbors to feel the black hole scene in Interstellar =] I like to spread the love lol.
Thanks all
"Beaming is real in case anyone thought it might not be that noticeable.. IT IS."
Don't the Dayton pt2c's also beam?
I have some planar tweeters of about that size which are OK ...but they are sitting in storage, unused, because their vertical beaming is too extreme for me.
Don't the Dayton pt2c's also beam?
I have some planar tweeters of about that size which are OK ...but they are sitting in storage, unused, because their vertical beaming is too extreme for me.
Yes, so it could be a question of how much the woofers should beam to meet the tweeter.
In addition, there is the woofer spacing to consider. The manufacturer doesn't seem to do full measurements for the tweeter, and you'll have to do your own for the woofers as well because of the line.
In addition, there is the woofer spacing to consider. The manufacturer doesn't seem to do full measurements for the tweeter, and you'll have to do your own for the woofers as well because of the line.
Thank you for the replies. I think im jumping ship and am now looking at a 2 way with a dayton DSA270-8 10" woofer with a dayton RST28F-4 tweeter. I plugged them into xsim and got them to make a +/- 8 db curve. Seems good on paper might need to make them and test and tune and go from there. What do you guys think? Also, i really dont have a clue what im talking about so yell at me if im being stupid hahaha thank all!
This is what i ended with after changing a few things. Does it look ok? I also learned that this wouldnt be 4-5 -/+ db but rather 2-3 -/+ db correct?
Final question, This RST28F-4 tweeter has a response of "1400-20khz" But goes flat on xsim lower than that. I have tweeter start to drop off in a 2nd order around 1600 hz but the crossover point looks to be at around 900 then drops further. The ad doesnt say anything about recommended crossover point but im worried about blowing the tweeter from too much low frequencies. Should i be worried? Thanks everyone.
Final question, This RST28F-4 tweeter has a response of "1400-20khz" But goes flat on xsim lower than that. I have tweeter start to drop off in a 2nd order around 1600 hz but the crossover point looks to be at around 900 then drops further. The ad doesnt say anything about recommended crossover point but im worried about blowing the tweeter from too much low frequencies. Should i be worried? Thanks everyone.
Maybe *not too worried* in the short term. But nothing you've described so far will be able to keep up with 2400W in a couple of 18's.
You can definitely smoke a tweeter with a too-low crossover point; likewise the slope. Another challenge is that different mfg's provide different quality specs. You almost need to know ('have experience with') the habits/quality of their published numbers -- before getting too worked up about 1400Hz vs 1600Hz, regardless of what the sim says.
Cheers
You can definitely smoke a tweeter with a too-low crossover point; likewise the slope. Another challenge is that different mfg's provide different quality specs. You almost need to know ('have experience with') the habits/quality of their published numbers -- before getting too worked up about 1400Hz vs 1600Hz, regardless of what the sim says.
Cheers
I would not recommend using tweeter bellow 1200Hz. You can try with steeper crossover. I would also add L-pad for tweeter.
Thanks everyone. One more stupid question. I have 2 unused 8 ohm L pads somewhere, can i use those with a 4 ohm tweeter? Why would it matter if its adding resistance anyway? If not, wheres a good cheap ish place i can buy 4 ohm L pads? Parts express doesnt have any.
I wouldn't even try to combine 10" woofer with soft dome tweeter.
Such a woofer isn't applicable over 1kHz for better results 5-600 Hz would be just OK. Also don't be fooled by the lowish resonant frequency of the tweeter - its best above 2kHz with 2nd order xover and maybe 1700 with a stepper order.
Maybe some horn tweeter or compression driver would does the job better.
Regards Georgi
Such a woofer isn't applicable over 1kHz for better results 5-600 Hz would be just OK. Also don't be fooled by the lowish resonant frequency of the tweeter - its best above 2kHz with 2nd order xover and maybe 1700 with a stepper order.
Maybe some horn tweeter or compression driver would does the job better.
Regards Georgi
You have a point. What will happen is that when you have the control at minimum attenuation, the impedance will look like the drivers', ie varying and roughly 4 ohms. When the attenuation is high, it will look like an 8 ohm resistor. Everything in between is a 'morph' between the two.
Alright thanks all. Unfortunately i have the parts coming already so ill put it al together and see what happens i guess. I was kind of going off of this article i read where the writer said he or she worked for a speaker company and their rule of thumb was "18db down at resonance" for the tweeter. Im currently like 12-14 db down at resonance so i figured it might be fine as long as its not super loud all the time. Im not going to fully integrate anything im just going to twisty the crossover parts together and see how it sounds. If its not good enough maybe ill look at adding a Dayton RS52FN-8 mid. What do you guys think? Thanks again.
Adding a midrange is a good idea, but is much more complex and expensive than a 2way design - more xover parts, additional enclosure for a mid driver and last but not least - better knowledge.
Anyway, I would go to 5" or 6" midrange instead of 2" one for a classic 3 way design. If you're sticked to Dayton audio setup PK165 or DC130A would be a good choice.
Regards Georgi
Anyway, I would go to 5" or 6" midrange instead of 2" one for a classic 3 way design. If you're sticked to Dayton audio setup PK165 or DC130A would be a good choice.
Regards Georgi
If you're at all worried about the 8 ohm L-pad with 4 ohm tweeter, just take the first 3 dB off the top by fitting a 4 ohm resistor in series with the tweeter. There's practically no chance that you'll need that top-most 3 dB anyway. Then the L-pad will reflect consistent impedance to the L-C network.
Cheers
Cheers
"much more complex and expensive than a 2way design' - the received knowledge, but I disagree. A 3 way runs the drivers much less close to their limits, & textbook filters work well with them. A few caps and a couple of small inductors? not much more expensive. Nowhere near as difficult as most imagine. 'better knowledge' - yes, that's prerequisite for any craft.
Thanks for all the input guys. i started a new thread because the topic has changed quite a bit. I stuck with the 2" mid, i am really interested to see how she does, if not great then i can always buy something else and put that mid in a garage set of speakers or something.
DIY Help - 2
DIY Help - 2