Some interesting measurements on Cab vibrations further down his vid :
Danny sellz tonz of Hi-Rez foam (not cheap!) , probably there are now more speakers upgraded with his stuff than unstuffed ones 🙂
Yes a Bad Cab can ruin your speaker completely no matter how expensive drivers your are using!
We need more research on how to build a trouble-free cabinet well worth the money!
Thick wallz will fix any cab problemz?
Well be prepared for 2inch thick chipboard TANX 🙂
Danny sellz tonz of Hi-Rez foam (not cheap!) , probably there are now more speakers upgraded with his stuff than unstuffed ones 🙂
Yes a Bad Cab can ruin your speaker completely no matter how expensive drivers your are using!
We need more research on how to build a trouble-free cabinet well worth the money!
Thick wallz will fix any cab problemz?
Well be prepared for 2inch thick chipboard TANX 🙂
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Second video does not work. I might watch Dany’s video, sometimes there is useful info.
But, probaly 90% of speaker boxes are not very good.
Better than brute force as 30mm thick cabinet walls is not as effective as clever engineering.
If had some of hois noRez. Not impressed. Had troublegivin git away. Probably a good source of profit for Danny thou.
dave
But, probaly 90% of speaker boxes are not very good.
Better than brute force as 30mm thick cabinet walls is not as effective as clever engineering.
If had some of hois noRez. Not impressed. Had troublegivin git away. Probably a good source of profit for Danny thou.
dave
So all that to tell us it is a crappy box.
His bracing suggestions suck.
Miralcle cure. NoRez.We sell tons. Good profit margins.
You can do better.
dav
His bracing suggestions suck.
Miralcle cure. NoRez.We sell tons. Good profit margins.
You can do better.
dav
Seems there is a bit of controversity about Danny's opinions , but his speaker measurements sure gives him some credit!
He's so obcessed about the iron parts in the signal path ... well I thought we could make a test using one of these "dirty" plastic terminals fed the signal through to an iron-free 4 Ohm resistor load of a few watts , for say 2-4Volts rms output signal.
Then use an appropriate voltage divider to feed a high quality dynamic headphone for listening!
Because he says the iron is "smearing" the signal , giving those "ironized" speakers a bad sound, and HE can hear it!
Maybe he use his beloved reference speakers close to his head , as headphones for "GR-Research" 🙂
Greetz , Iron Man Research Lab
He's so obcessed about the iron parts in the signal path ... well I thought we could make a test using one of these "dirty" plastic terminals fed the signal through to an iron-free 4 Ohm resistor load of a few watts , for say 2-4Volts rms output signal.
Then use an appropriate voltage divider to feed a high quality dynamic headphone for listening!
Because he says the iron is "smearing" the signal , giving those "ironized" speakers a bad sound, and HE can hear it!
Maybe he use his beloved reference speakers close to his head , as headphones for "GR-Research" 🙂
Greetz , Iron Man Research Lab
So he bought a Clio. I can buy a Clio, does that impress anyone here?but his speaker measurements sure gives him some credit!
but he shows evidence that cabs are bad and need urgently improvements!So he bought a Clio. I can buy a Clio, does that impress anyone here?
(a picture speaks louder than words)
have you noticed the different stiffening ribs orientation (90deg/vertical) that Andrew Jones/MoFi/Sourcepoint 8(10) uses?
before you complain .. use your brain!
no one will have an interest in audio no more if you don't keep up with the latest tricks ...
sleepers are losers
greetz from the sunny side of the street 🙂
I saw the video.
3 of his comments stood out.
1) Lack of bracing.
2) Issues w XO
3) Silver clad copper wire. (silver wire copper core.)
Ok, on the lack of bracing... I seem to recall that on some of these kits, they instruct the builder to use bracing but don't really go into detail. (How to brace is up to the builder...)
I'm not sure which kits do that... going from memory... but his recommendations were 'dumb'. Per his video, his buddy got the speakers for $500. The drivers and XOs are worth a ton more. Heck, he could rebuild the cabinets or hire someone and he'd still come out ahead.
@planet10 , Dave is a fanatic about bracing. (I had asked him about this in a different thread on this forum.)
I'm sure he could add some thoughts here.
I'm not an XO guru by any means, so I'm going to defer to someone else as to how off the XO would be from these kits. TG's kits seem to be pretty well received.
Then he goes on about the silver coated wires being bad because they have two different metals...
Now if memory serves. the idea is to use threaded wires over a solid wire due to the greater surface area. And that the electron flow is on the surface. So a silver wire would supposedly be the best, albeit expensive but then a silver coated/clad wire would still outperform copper only?
So I have to ask... what are the thoughts on issues #2 and #3 ?
Am I suffering from dementia or am I wrong about the wiring?
3 of his comments stood out.
1) Lack of bracing.
2) Issues w XO
3) Silver clad copper wire. (silver wire copper core.)
Ok, on the lack of bracing... I seem to recall that on some of these kits, they instruct the builder to use bracing but don't really go into detail. (How to brace is up to the builder...)
I'm not sure which kits do that... going from memory... but his recommendations were 'dumb'. Per his video, his buddy got the speakers for $500. The drivers and XOs are worth a ton more. Heck, he could rebuild the cabinets or hire someone and he'd still come out ahead.
@planet10 , Dave is a fanatic about bracing. (I had asked him about this in a different thread on this forum.)
I'm sure he could add some thoughts here.
I'm not an XO guru by any means, so I'm going to defer to someone else as to how off the XO would be from these kits. TG's kits seem to be pretty well received.
Then he goes on about the silver coated wires being bad because they have two different metals...
Now if memory serves. the idea is to use threaded wires over a solid wire due to the greater surface area. And that the electron flow is on the surface. So a silver wire would supposedly be the best, albeit expensive but then a silver coated/clad wire would still outperform copper only?
So I have to ask... what are the thoughts on issues #2 and #3 ?
Am I suffering from dementia or am I wrong about the wiring?
I just try enjoy the music without any bo -- - -cks getting in the way of the signal path from the speakers to my ears.
Do I use steel or brass binding posts, wires clipped into speaker terminals, etc? Yes - can I hear a difference between them - no.
Am I willing to spend $300 a metre on alleged super cable, activated, oxygen free speaker wire or carbon fibre carpet isolators? No.
Do I think $200 worth of crossover parts will make a Dayton DC160 sound like a Scan Speak? No.
Do I brace my cabinets? Of course, those I've built have had the designers' recommendations on what to do. It's one cheap and easy way to really make a difference to the sound.
Rant over.......
Geoff
Do I use steel or brass binding posts, wires clipped into speaker terminals, etc? Yes - can I hear a difference between them - no.
Am I willing to spend $300 a metre on alleged super cable, activated, oxygen free speaker wire or carbon fibre carpet isolators? No.
Do I think $200 worth of crossover parts will make a Dayton DC160 sound like a Scan Speak? No.
Do I brace my cabinets? Of course, those I've built have had the designers' recommendations on what to do. It's one cheap and easy way to really make a difference to the sound.
Rant over.......
Geoff
A bad cab is like a broken speaker running in the background , delayed/out of phase and makes hunting for very low disto numbers , like PURIFY is offering , a complete expensive desaster!
Fix the Cab 1st , then put money into (more) expensive transducers!
And don't forget the room bitch .. she has shiny eyes but you have to pay a price!
Regards - The Bright Audio Knights 🙂
please ignore if out of your tastes range :
Fix the Cab 1st , then put money into (more) expensive transducers!
And don't forget the room bitch .. she has shiny eyes but you have to pay a price!
Regards - The Bright Audio Knights 🙂
please ignore if out of your tastes range :
“A hundred degrees out of phase and it cancels the on axis signal”
Well, I took the trouble and watched the vid. He’s a nice guy. But I wouldn’t let him design my speaker system.
Well, I took the trouble and watched the vid. He’s a nice guy. But I wouldn’t let him design my speaker system.
And don't forget the room bitch .. she has shiny eyes but you have to pay a price!
:^) Intersting turn of the phrase … i just said/implied the same thing in another thread just before this. The way i said irt was not near as soulful.
dave
@planet10 ,
Dave,
I was looking at another thread concerning the Cube Audio DIY Box design.
You posted Woden Design for Cube ...
In the plan posted there is no bracing. (Do you brace a MLTL?)
Just curious...
The reason I ask... is that Danny's complaint is that the guy who built the speaker claimed he followed the instructions and the cabinet wasn't well braced.
And also I am curious about the different designs and design considerations.
Thx
Dave,
I was looking at another thread concerning the Cube Audio DIY Box design.
You posted Woden Design for Cube ...
In the plan posted there is no bracing. (Do you brace a MLTL?)
Just curious...
The reason I ask... is that Danny's complaint is that the guy who built the speaker claimed he followed the instructions and the cabinet wasn't well braced.
And also I am curious about the different designs and design considerations.
Thx
In the plan posted there is no bracing. (Do you brace a MLTL?)
If it is a quick drawing, no bracing is drawn but suggested. More eleaborate plansets will have tham.
That one definitely should have some braces in it.
dave
We built a MLTL and the designer kindly sent me a detailed diagram of the suggested bracing; he advised that without it the cabinet, which is about 90cm tall, would resonate
Geoff
Geoff
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