If you want to see a bad rocker
go to any city west of Pittsburgh and North of Louisville, Kentucky -- the car of my youth filled with BONDO -- or how I learned to fiberglas!
go to any city west of Pittsburgh and North of Louisville, Kentucky -- the car of my youth filled with BONDO -- or how I learned to fiberglas!
think again
about ten years back or so a friend was working for a high end shop that did a lot of mod's. they went through a period where this was very hip and every one in town was having their speakers "painted inside". i went to see to watch my friend do his magic one day and checked out the can. which of course i was forbidden to do by the boss. i don't remember the name of the product (getting old you know) but it had a picture of the space shuttle on it and sold for about 50 dollars a can even to them. the story was it was some how used in the heat tiles on the shuttle.
as for cloning the product. the best my friend and i could come up with was using ground cermaic dust mixed into artist gesso. you should be able to get the gesso from any art supply shop and as for the dust look for a pottery.
this dried like a rock and was just as hard too.
gary
about ten years back or so a friend was working for a high end shop that did a lot of mod's. they went through a period where this was very hip and every one in town was having their speakers "painted inside". i went to see to watch my friend do his magic one day and checked out the can. which of course i was forbidden to do by the boss. i don't remember the name of the product (getting old you know) but it had a picture of the space shuttle on it and sold for about 50 dollars a can even to them. the story was it was some how used in the heat tiles on the shuttle.
as for cloning the product. the best my friend and i could come up with was using ground cermaic dust mixed into artist gesso. you should be able to get the gesso from any art supply shop and as for the dust look for a pottery.
this dried like a rock and was just as hard too.
gary
Hi François,
Here's a link to a company that makes the stuff you're looking for:
http://www.lordadhesives.com/loudspeaker/Santoprene_news.asp
This is a large company that makes all sorts of polymer based product out of North Carolina.
Rodd Yamashita
Here's a link to a company that makes the stuff you're looking for:
http://www.lordadhesives.com/loudspeaker/Santoprene_news.asp
This is a large company that makes all sorts of polymer based product out of North Carolina.
Rodd Yamashita
Try Leakstopper by Gardner
Home Depot carries a brand of roof repair tar/slurry it is comprised of
Asphalt
Stoddard Solvent
Cellulose Fiber
Mineral Filler
Penetrex Oil
Chrysotile Mineral Fiber
Liquid rubber
The Penetrex oil soaks into the wood and allows the rest to bond, and become part of the wood over time.
It takes about 2 weeks to completely cure (I think, at least that's when the oil completely soaks in) but it worked great for me on my SST8 project. It remains tacky enough to stick other materials like Poly stuff or fiber glass batting to. Absolutely no sound leakage thru the walls when I was done, I can hold my ear to the cabinets and even at very high SPL's no sound will come through.
Home Depot carries a brand of roof repair tar/slurry it is comprised of
Asphalt
Stoddard Solvent
Cellulose Fiber
Mineral Filler
Penetrex Oil
Chrysotile Mineral Fiber
Liquid rubber
The Penetrex oil soaks into the wood and allows the rest to bond, and become part of the wood over time.
It takes about 2 weeks to completely cure (I think, at least that's when the oil completely soaks in) but it worked great for me on my SST8 project. It remains tacky enough to stick other materials like Poly stuff or fiber glass batting to. Absolutely no sound leakage thru the walls when I was done, I can hold my ear to the cabinets and even at very high SPL's no sound will come through.
About twenty five years ago I coated the insides of the box and the frames of the drivers of a pair of Avent IIs. I used modeling clay, the stuff you buy at Toy-R-Us. It really cleaned up the sound. I just rolled it flat on wax paper and stuck it to the inside walls. The foam surrounds on the woofers rotted out a few years ago but the clay was still soft and in place. If I remenber right it was sugested by a guy named Vandersteen who did Dynaco Mods.
check this one
checked the nasa sites and this was the "paint" the mod shop i spoke of was using. i can't remember clearly but, i do seem to remember they lifted it from another speaker company who was using the same product. it really absorbed very well and stiffen the box as well, after two coats. i never heard a speaker it did not tighten up the image and control the bass a little too.
has anyone tried it before here???
gary
http://www.paintonce.com/index.html
checked the nasa sites and this was the "paint" the mod shop i spoke of was using. i can't remember clearly but, i do seem to remember they lifted it from another speaker company who was using the same product. it really absorbed very well and stiffen the box as well, after two coats. i never heard a speaker it did not tighten up the image and control the bass a little too.
has anyone tried it before here???
gary
http://www.paintonce.com/index.html
Thank you for all your advice guys, I take good notes. I am surprised that there is so much interest on this subject 🙂
Do you think the particle size or the quantity in the paint will change a lot the properties of the box?
Do you think the particle size or the quantity in the paint will change a lot the properties of the box?
Borosilicate coating
Hi Francois. You speak french I guest, me too, I leave in Montreal. Anyway I found (I think) the same kind of coating used by Totem. Check this link: http://www.21st-century-coatings-canada.com/PDF files/31IN024.pdf
I bought it for my own project a Dynaudio kit.
The other stuff is from Cascade Audio, called TC-1 Latex-Ceramic Heat Shield. Its description fit perfectly the Totem claim: "NASA space shuttle program, etc...". It is probably the same stuff used by Totem.
Check this link at www.partsexpress.com:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...7&St3=74194947&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=15299&DID=7
I'm really interested by this Totem clone. I want to build one too. Let me know your other finding at algar_emi@hotmail.com
Bye...
Hi Francois. You speak french I guest, me too, I leave in Montreal. Anyway I found (I think) the same kind of coating used by Totem. Check this link: http://www.21st-century-coatings-canada.com/PDF files/31IN024.pdf
I bought it for my own project a Dynaudio kit.
The other stuff is from Cascade Audio, called TC-1 Latex-Ceramic Heat Shield. Its description fit perfectly the Totem claim: "NASA space shuttle program, etc...". It is probably the same stuff used by Totem.
Check this link at www.partsexpress.com:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...7&St3=74194947&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=15299&DID=7
I'm really interested by this Totem clone. I want to build one too. Let me know your other finding at algar_emi@hotmail.com
Bye...
This is exactly the product that I was searching for. Quite expensive to paint only 2 square feet. I think not using this stuff is a minor difference compared to the other design choice that I had to make.
Merci beaucoup!
Merci beaucoup!
Inside of a Sonotube?
I want to coat the inside of a sonotube. But the catch is that the inside is coated with wax. Any coating will most likely just run real bad huh? I saw that roofing stuff in the plastic container they sell at home depot and loews and was thinking about using that.
I want to coat the inside of a sonotube. But the catch is that the inside is coated with wax. Any coating will most likely just run real bad huh? I saw that roofing stuff in the plastic container they sell at home depot and loews and was thinking about using that.
You may be able to remove the wax with a '50 sandpaper or a heatgun or just breaking the surface with a brush to let the paint stick more easily.
The same product can be found for other uses, cheaper too
<a href="http://www.metalshield.com/insulation.html">Metal Shield</a> <i>The microspheres dramatically reduce heat
and sound transfer.""</i> 1 Gallon US$49.95
Or you can buy the spheres at fibreglass supply stores, like
<a href="http://www.tapplastics.com/fiberglass/fillers_dyes/48_sphere.html">TAP Microspheres</a> 1/4lb US$5.65
Try searching borosilicate ceramic spheres
Regards
James
<a href="http://www.metalshield.com/insulation.html">Metal Shield</a> <i>The microspheres dramatically reduce heat
and sound transfer.""</i> 1 Gallon US$49.95
Or you can buy the spheres at fibreglass supply stores, like
<a href="http://www.tapplastics.com/fiberglass/fillers_dyes/48_sphere.html">TAP Microspheres</a> 1/4lb US$5.65
Try searching borosilicate ceramic spheres
Regards
James
Ya maybe I'll get one of those wire brushes for combing animals with to break the wax up. When I was putting in the center brace I used a pick and scoured the area around the brace to let the liquid nails get some grip.
DEADENING COMPOUNDS
Dave,
I think the product Nelsson refers to is this range:
http://www.blachford.ca/market_product/noise/vibration.html
Cheers,😉
Dave,
I think the product Nelsson refers to is this range:
http://www.blachford.ca/market_product/noise/vibration.html
Cheers,😉
Dave:
>I don't believe it actually damps the panels, but stiffens them up, and then the sand particles with their random distribution, further break up the resonant signature of the panels.<
I've used borosilicate compound for on-site voicing of tonearms and phono cartridges. We're talking aluminum, stainless steel or carbon-fiber tonearm tubes, and machined aluminum or titanium cartridges bodies. in most cases, there were significant changes to the sound, and given the high rigidity of the materials that the borosilicate was being applied to, I think that some form of dampening is more likely to be responsible for the changes in sound than any stiffening action.
regards, jonathan carr
>I don't believe it actually damps the panels, but stiffens them up, and then the sand particles with their random distribution, further break up the resonant signature of the panels.<
I've used borosilicate compound for on-site voicing of tonearms and phono cartridges. We're talking aluminum, stainless steel or carbon-fiber tonearm tubes, and machined aluminum or titanium cartridges bodies. in most cases, there were significant changes to the sound, and given the high rigidity of the materials that the borosilicate was being applied to, I think that some form of dampening is more likely to be responsible for the changes in sound than any stiffening action.
regards, jonathan carr
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