I have limited experience with many diy speakers and would like some input. First mounting locations are off axis and there is no room for enclosures so I realize this will limit me. I am limited further by needing midrange driver with a maximum outer diameter of 5.25" is there anything out there anywhere near my needs? I can moder speakers all day long with BBP6 but it won't do free air/ open baffle that I can see.
Mike
Mike
You can search other forums that do a lot of driver install stuff. I would look at Seas and Peerless, Morel depending on your budget maybe Focal too. What you want is a mid with a higher qts say around .6 or better and a Fs low as you want them to play. A 5.25 is hard to get much midbass out of try to hog the hole to 6.5 even if you don't enlarge the door panel hole....if possible. You can model IB just make the box 100cf or something, I use winISD its free anyway however I would model the rough cf of the door plus a little since it leaks. The issue is some high qts have a large Vas, if you get close to the vas poof the low bass will go away. A low qts will have less bass to start with but not care what size the box is until it gets smaller, but you have to EQ those because the bass output is not there, that means you have to feed them more power for the same output. You will see that in the models. Some of the dayton at PE are good drivers as well, good for the cost.
Just take a driver or sub with high qts and model it and change the box size, you will see once you get above Vas it really stops changing the response. At that point it would be called IB; when the enclosure no longer affects response in a meaningful way. A low qts driver is typically made with the intention a box will push the Q up to flatten the response, and you end up with a higher slope roll off on the bottom....which is great if you don't need it to play any lower.
Another issue is there are drivers that are more midranges (don't like to play that low such as Pro drivers) and others that are more woofers or subs (they don't like to play that high). So if you are doing a 2 way you have to get all the way up to a tweeter at 5K or whatever, then make sure you get something that can play high. The dayton RS is a good example. But then don't expect them to thump like a sub either. You can pair a larger tweeter that plays lower with a woofer that is more HD and can't play really high. All that is important because most of your SQ is in the mid and some the tweeter.
Just take a driver or sub with high qts and model it and change the box size, you will see once you get above Vas it really stops changing the response. At that point it would be called IB; when the enclosure no longer affects response in a meaningful way. A low qts driver is typically made with the intention a box will push the Q up to flatten the response, and you end up with a higher slope roll off on the bottom....which is great if you don't need it to play any lower.
Another issue is there are drivers that are more midranges (don't like to play that low such as Pro drivers) and others that are more woofers or subs (they don't like to play that high). So if you are doing a 2 way you have to get all the way up to a tweeter at 5K or whatever, then make sure you get something that can play high. The dayton RS is a good example. But then don't expect them to thump like a sub either. You can pair a larger tweeter that plays lower with a woofer that is more HD and can't play really high. All that is important because most of your SQ is in the mid and some the tweeter.
THanks you for the tips. I wish they were going into a door that would actually make it easier. No the stock location is in the dash and positioned wrong for any real SQ that is why I asked about off axis.. Wifey gave me specific instructions that I must use the factory locations. They will be modded but I can only do so much and information is gold right now so I have more than a few ways to go and coaxial isn't one of them.. I hope she will let me fudge on the tweeter location.
Mike
Mike
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