I don't have the knowledge about these numbers but Chris is right! You can find these numbers in numerous threads. And 1000watts and taking it to camp with these numbers is not an option. If you are new to this (like I was) buy a cheap pre assembled ta2024 with a cheap charger and connect some nice 4ohm car speakers to them and you will be amazed about the volume you can play! In the end I went for the full range option because I wanted it to sound beautifully and volume (which is still there) was a second.
Again try the experiment it is cheap and fun!
Again try the experiment it is cheap and fun!
Yes im new to this!
Chris661 and Xerxes75, I think their is a misunderstanding!
The boombox in the first post is something I built out of random parts in my garage, it will stay as it is, and I will not touch or upgrade it.
I am here to ask more questions about a new high power boombox that I want to build. After looking and searching for a little bit, I can not seem to find any high power boombox setups.
What I want to build is a compact but high power boombox that you can feel when it kicks.
The Power Source:
I will make a custom Nano-Tech Lithium pack. Lipo is the highest power to weight chemistry available. Its also dangerous because it has a low and high voltage requirement, requiring a custom low voltage cut off board, and special chargers, commonly used in RC CAR/AIRPLANE applications.
A good lipo pack the size of your hand can crank a car for 10 min. PROOF
The ebike community use these packs for the high power electric bicycles like this one here that pushed 20,000 watts at peak.
!!!!!
I will be using these packs here in series to build a high power pack.
This pack has a 325AMP continues current ratings, and 650AMP burst current rating! I will use many of these packs in series, so current and voltage drop will not be a problem at all.
Capacity: 5000mAh
Voltage: 3S1P / 3 Cell / 11.1V
Discharge: 65C Constant / 130C Burst
Power density reaches 7.5 kw/kg
Internal impedance can reach as low as 1.2mΩ compared to that of 3mΩ of a standard Lipoly.
Now the Car Audio Components is what I have no experience/knowledge.
Here is what I cam up with so far, but I not sure about the right combinations of speakers and amps...
T1D210 10" Power T1 2-Ohm DVC Subwoofer
Dual 2-Ohm
600 Watts RMS
1200 Watts MAX
T500-1bdCP 500 Watt Class-bd Constant Power Amplifier
300 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohm
500 Watts x 1 @ 2-Ohm
500 Watts x 1 @ 1-Ohm
Total Power: 500 Watts RMS
T1675-S 6.75" Power Series Component System
4-Ohm
80 watts RMS
120 Watts MAX
T400-2 400 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier
(RMS Continuous Power): 120 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm
200 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohm
400 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohm Bridged
2-Ohm x 1 Bridged Stable
Total Power: 400 Watts RMS
This is what I have come up with, but I am not sure if these combo's will work.
I still have to read more on the ohm's thing. Im not sure how to match subs, speakers, amps correctly yet.
So I hope you guys understand more clearly what I am trying to do. Sorry I was not clean from the start.
Chris661 and Xerxes75, I think their is a misunderstanding!
The boombox in the first post is something I built out of random parts in my garage, it will stay as it is, and I will not touch or upgrade it.
I am here to ask more questions about a new high power boombox that I want to build. After looking and searching for a little bit, I can not seem to find any high power boombox setups.
What I want to build is a compact but high power boombox that you can feel when it kicks.
The Power Source:
I will make a custom Nano-Tech Lithium pack. Lipo is the highest power to weight chemistry available. Its also dangerous because it has a low and high voltage requirement, requiring a custom low voltage cut off board, and special chargers, commonly used in RC CAR/AIRPLANE applications.
A good lipo pack the size of your hand can crank a car for 10 min. PROOF
The ebike community use these packs for the high power electric bicycles like this one here that pushed 20,000 watts at peak.
!!!!!
I will be using these packs here in series to build a high power pack.
This pack has a 325AMP continues current ratings, and 650AMP burst current rating! I will use many of these packs in series, so current and voltage drop will not be a problem at all.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Capacity: 5000mAh
Voltage: 3S1P / 3 Cell / 11.1V
Discharge: 65C Constant / 130C Burst
Power density reaches 7.5 kw/kg
Internal impedance can reach as low as 1.2mΩ compared to that of 3mΩ of a standard Lipoly.
Now the Car Audio Components is what I have no experience/knowledge.
Here is what I cam up with so far, but I not sure about the right combinations of speakers and amps...
T1D210 10" Power T1 2-Ohm DVC Subwoofer
Dual 2-Ohm
600 Watts RMS
1200 Watts MAX
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
T500-1bdCP 500 Watt Class-bd Constant Power Amplifier
300 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohm
500 Watts x 1 @ 2-Ohm
500 Watts x 1 @ 1-Ohm
Total Power: 500 Watts RMS
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
T1675-S 6.75" Power Series Component System
4-Ohm
80 watts RMS
120 Watts MAX
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
T400-2 400 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier
(RMS Continuous Power): 120 Watts x 2 @ 4-Ohm
200 Watts x 2 @ 2-Ohm
400 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohm Bridged
2-Ohm x 1 Bridged Stable
Total Power: 400 Watts RMS
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is what I have come up with, but I am not sure if these combo's will work.
I still have to read more on the ohm's thing. Im not sure how to match subs, speakers, amps correctly yet.
So I hope you guys understand more clearly what I am trying to do. Sorry I was not clean from the start.
Vokus, before you throw your money away please read the Boominator thread mentioned earlier.
There are a number of points where you're looking in the completely wrong direction.
1) The batteries you refer to are meant for high discharge current. You don't want or need that. You want long battery life so you're essentially paying 4 times as much for a capability you don't need.
2) The Subwoofer you refer to has a sensitivity of 83dB/w/m, that means you have to feed it 2000 watts to be as loud as the Boominator is at 2x16W. And probably much more since I've not accounted for power compression factor which would be severe.
In general all that are serious about building portable boomboxes and sound systems has one axiom they as always go by:
Do not ever use anything intended for car audio!
There are exceptions of course but they are few and far apart. The reason is simple.
Loudspeakers meant for car audio is meant for a miniscule listening room with heavy upper mid and high frequency dampening (from the seats), and severe low frequency loss (from leaks). That means that loudspeakers for car audio is built complete different than normal speaker to accommodate this, and always with very low efficiency because the distance to the listener is very short so it don't it.
Amplifiers for car audio have the luxury of having a constant power source (the engine) that tops the battery off. They are often several hundred watts which isn't needed with high efficiency speakers and almost always the extremely wasteful class AB, although class G, H and D (in order from worst to best) are becoming more common. However, car audio companies often use the higher efficiency of class G, H and D to just make more powerful amplifiers and then nothing is gained.
So what do you need? You need high efficiency PA drivers, high efficiency low power amplifiers, and batteries capable of low power drain but high Ah rating.
There are a number of points where you're looking in the completely wrong direction.
1) The batteries you refer to are meant for high discharge current. You don't want or need that. You want long battery life so you're essentially paying 4 times as much for a capability you don't need.
2) The Subwoofer you refer to has a sensitivity of 83dB/w/m, that means you have to feed it 2000 watts to be as loud as the Boominator is at 2x16W. And probably much more since I've not accounted for power compression factor which would be severe.
In general all that are serious about building portable boomboxes and sound systems has one axiom they as always go by:
Do not ever use anything intended for car audio!
There are exceptions of course but they are few and far apart. The reason is simple.
Loudspeakers meant for car audio is meant for a miniscule listening room with heavy upper mid and high frequency dampening (from the seats), and severe low frequency loss (from leaks). That means that loudspeakers for car audio is built complete different than normal speaker to accommodate this, and always with very low efficiency because the distance to the listener is very short so it don't it.
Amplifiers for car audio have the luxury of having a constant power source (the engine) that tops the battery off. They are often several hundred watts which isn't needed with high efficiency speakers and almost always the extremely wasteful class AB, although class G, H and D (in order from worst to best) are becoming more common. However, car audio companies often use the higher efficiency of class G, H and D to just make more powerful amplifiers and then nothing is gained.
So what do you need? You need high efficiency PA drivers, high efficiency low power amplifiers, and batteries capable of low power drain but high Ah rating.
It's impossible to achieve outdoors with something that is even remotely compact because of the very different physical requirements of such an acoustic environment, so the question is moot.
What is possible is like in the Boominator to make sure that 1st harmonics are correctly reproduced and heavily filter away the fundamentals. Done correctly that will give the illusion of the fundamentals being there.
If you want something to kick in your stomach outside, you should start by buying 4 to 8 15" or 18" high sensitivity professional drivers. Each placed in a reasonably sized bass reflex cabinet of 100 to 200 liters. And scale up from there.
Thank you Saturnus!
This is why I am here to ask and find out these things.
Well its seems its back to the drawing board.
I will look in the boominator more.
So when I played my boombox in the first post inside the house, the reason I can feel a little bit of bass is because I am in a sealed environment?
So when I am outside it would take much more power to achieve the feeling of bass correct?
What would you guys suggest?
OMG I JUST REALIZED THAT THE GUY THAT BUILT THE BOOMINATOR REPLIED TO MY THREAD!
THX SATURNUS, I WILL READ THRU YOUR THREAD CAREFULLY!
This is why I am here to ask and find out these things.
Well its seems its back to the drawing board.
I will look in the boominator more.
So when I played my boombox in the first post inside the house, the reason I can feel a little bit of bass is because I am in a sealed environment?
So when I am outside it would take much more power to achieve the feeling of bass correct?
What would you guys suggest?
OMG I JUST REALIZED THAT THE GUY THAT BUILT THE BOOMINATOR REPLIED TO MY THREAD!
THX SATURNUS, I WILL READ THRU YOUR THREAD CAREFULLY!
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Yes. And it's placed near a near a wall and on the floor. It would take minimum 8 times as much power to get the same feeling outdoors.
You can only imagine how much more power it would take to go from "a little" to "a lot" but a good guess would be between 40 and 100 times as much power as you have now with the same speakers. Obviously not in the realm of possibility.
LOL. No worries.
You must be a masochist, or just have some sort of wish to go clinically insane. The Boominator thread over 3000 posts long. If you study all that closely your sanity will be in dire straights.
Thank you Saturnus!
I noticed at the 41hz shop, their are some powerful amps available!
Do you think it is possible to make the boominator a little more powerful, with a little more kick to it.
I have been reading thru the thread, and love the efficiency of the whole setup, but I would really love to add just a little more kick.
The reason I am thinking about this is because of battery tech like lifep04 (a123), and lipo... It is possible to make a high capacity pack with low weight.
So any ideas on a beefy boominator?
From what I read so far, you have very accurate sound representation with that boombox, and that is differently what I want.
Just wondering on the bass side of things, and how to achieve some type of bass in an outdoor setting.
I also really love the dual direction, almost omni directional setup of the boominator!
This is wonderful in a camping situation, for people to hear from all sides!
I really like the boominator and want to build it!
I noticed at the 41hz shop, their are some powerful amps available!
Do you think it is possible to make the boominator a little more powerful, with a little more kick to it.
I have been reading thru the thread, and love the efficiency of the whole setup, but I would really love to add just a little more kick.
The reason I am thinking about this is because of battery tech like lifep04 (a123), and lipo... It is possible to make a high capacity pack with low weight.
So any ideas on a beefy boominator?
From what I read so far, you have very accurate sound representation with that boombox, and that is differently what I want.
Just wondering on the bass side of things, and how to achieve some type of bass in an outdoor setting.
I also really love the dual direction, almost omni directional setup of the boominator!
This is wonderful in a camping situation, for people to hear from all sides!
I really like the boominator and want to build it!
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You can build it with amp9b, run the batteries in series for 24V and get 6dB more output (but it'll naturally use 4 times as much power).
Please note that you cannot get the HP10W is North America. You have to get the goldwood GW1058 instead. And with that you have to place an extra piece of 12mm plywood behind the magnets to make it fit.
New and improved sketch-up drawing is recently posted, btw.
Please note that you cannot get the HP10W is North America. You have to get the goldwood GW1058 instead. And with that you have to place an extra piece of 12mm plywood behind the magnets to make it fit.
New and improved sketch-up drawing is recently posted, btw.
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