DIY Bluetooth Speaker

[adri123]

Hi

Am looking to make a DIY BT speaker. I made one a few years ago with my son and fancy making another but have forgotten which amp etc I used.

Can anyone recommend a pair of full range speakers that would be good for such a project?

Last one had a pair of "peerless P830986 HI END 3inch fullrange speaker" That was the ebay ad anyway. It sounded super but I can't find any more of them.

Also, what amp module would you recommend?

TIA

Adri

 

[kd1yt]

The Fountek FR59EXE fullranges, which I have used and really liked, have been on sale at Madisound for about $14 and have a built-in grille. Without a port or a passive radiator they will be thin on the low frequencies but in a 4x4x4 inch internal cavity box with a Dayton DMA58-PR I got a really nice full-bodied, full-range sound.

 

[Nenola]

Could you give a bit more specs to start with? Like what kind of battery are you planning to use, or already have? What size of enclosure is the maximum? Budget?

Those Peerless are still available, for example here:

Buying a Peerless PLS-P830986 woofer? | SoundImports - SoundImports

Peerless by Tymphany 830986 3" Full Range Woofer

Tangband and Dayton Audio have also good candidates for the job.

 

[adri123]

Thx for the replies.

If I go from a 3" driver like the peerless to a 2" one like the FR59EXE will there be much of a difference?

I do want a good full sound.

Also the aim is to have a BT speaker. Any suggestions for an amp module with BT included would be appreciated. What wattage should the amp be.

As for batteries I thought about using some of the 18650 lithium batteries in a holder with a step up/down voltage converter if needed.

Adri

 

[adri123]

Also, if I go for 2 x the FR59EXE would that need 2 passive radiators?

Cheers

Adri

 

[adri123]

And final question for now.

Would a single Dayton Audio RS100-8 4" driver give a better sound than stereo FR59EXE ?

So many variables!!!

 

[Nenola]

With bigger driver it's usually easier to get the lower notes audible. The fountek has Frequency Response 139-20,000Hz and the dayton 90 to 20,000 Hz, so the dayton probably would be a better choice. There is also ND91 from dayton, which goes quite low, and usable as a full range driver.

You could do with one passive radiator if it is large enough, or just build a ported box. But in smaller builds, passive radiators will save some enclosure volume.

 

[kd1yt]

Also, if I go for 2 x the FR59EXE would that need 2 passive radiators?

Cheers

Adri

The usual rule of thumb is 2x the surface area of PR as compared to the active driver. But the DMA58 has ~2x the Xmax of the FR59, so I decided to wing it and it seems to work.

 

[adri123]

tempted to try the tested route of FR59EXE with the Dayton DMA58-PR (I'm assuming it would be 2 drivers to one PR)

The other option that has come up is a single Fountek FR135EX with a PR yet to be chosen. Being a total newbie though How would you handle stereo sound from the amp module to a single driver?

Can't decide which way to go.

Help most welcome!!!

Adri

 

[Nenola]

How would you handle stereo sound from the amp module to a single driver?

With mono amplifier. I have used this in some projects:

TPA3118 PBTL Mono Digital Amplifier Board 60W 8-24V POWER AMP Replace TPA3110 YA | eBay

 

[adri123]

I've finalised the design of this.

When mounting the speakers should they be flush with or screwed to the back of the front? Or doesn't it matter?

Thanks for any replies.

Adri

 

[yai]

i'm planning to build something similar, using a raspberry pi (has built-in bluetooth and wifi) and a hifiberry soundcard and cheap digital amp and volumio.org software. my speakers are crap but its for my workshop where the nicer sounds come from my woodworking machines

 

[Bleugh]

I've finalised the design of this.

When mounting the speakers should they be flush with or screwed to the back of the front? Or doesn't it matter?

Thanks for any replies.

Adri

post some pics up! - as for speaker location - shouldn't really matter, the wall thickness is the only loss of volume by mounting it inside the speaker

for 'servicing' though, if you blow up the speaker driver, it'll be easier to replace / upgrade if it's screwed from the front!

If you can, countersink in a bit a couple of millimeters so that the speaker sits in the surface a bit to give a nicer appearance

 

[Ghiro]

I'm in the same boat but stuck few steps ahead.


Here's my hardware list, hope it helps:

Speakers:
FaitalPRO | Woofer | 4FE35

Class D Amp+ BT:
WONDOM | STORE

Issue is i need more bass and willing to add passive drivers but can't info's about what i have to do to fit them in the enclosure and how to choose 'em.

 

[Bleugh]

I'm in the same boat but stuck few steps ahead.


Here's my hardware list, hope it helps:

Speakers:
FaitalPRO | Woofer | 4FE35

Class D Amp+ BT:
WONDOM | STORE

Issue is i need more bass and willing to add passive drivers but can't info's about what i have to do to fit them in the enclosure and how to choose 'em.

Show some pics of your stuff, dimensions, calculations you've done!anything really.
can't help you modify stuff unless we all know what you're modifying

easiest way to get more Bass is to fine tune the enclosure volume and port........

 

[Ghiro]

Actually the boombox is by the shack by the holiday house so i can't post pics, ATM.

I've followed the manufacturer spec's for a 6Lt. sealed box.
It's a sealed box of 20X30X10 cm's for each speaker.

Both boxes are parts of a single enclosure made of 19mm MFD, between the speaker boxes a tiny space for the housing of the Amp/BT board/battery-power boards.

Doesn't matter if i have to rebuild the whole thing, i do not like the way it sounds now: bright high's, poor mid-low's, scarce to none low freq.'s.