Hey all,
well, after calling around Toronto to see how much it would cost to get a couple heatsinks and the front piece of AL plate anodized (+200$!!!) I am thinking to try it out myself. There seems to be a plethora of information out there and it looks like a good project to try out.
If anyone in the GTA is interested in getting something anodized (and helping out) let me know.
Mantisory
well, after calling around Toronto to see how much it would cost to get a couple heatsinks and the front piece of AL plate anodized (+200$!!!) I am thinking to try it out myself. There seems to be a plethora of information out there and it looks like a good project to try out.
If anyone in the GTA is interested in getting something anodized (and helping out) let me know.
Mantisory
Hello Mantisory
Have you looked at www.caswellcanada.ca
they have all the diy anodizing and plating supplies and info.
Goodluck
BD
Have you looked at www.caswellcanada.ca
they have all the diy anodizing and plating supplies and info.
Goodluck
BD
yeah, that stuff is even more expensive (their kits i mean).
I have found someone to lend me a rectifier (12V/10A), and i am picking up battery acid today...so now i just need to get some dyes and some buckets to do it in and i am ready to go...
I have found someone to lend me a rectifier (12V/10A), and i am picking up battery acid today...so now i just need to get some dyes and some buckets to do it in and i am ready to go...
anodizing
Not too difficult... try to get "clean" battery acid (not brown dirty looking stuff) or it may not take the dye ...
Typical conditions 15% H2SO4, 20 asf ~ 20 minutes or so... run as constant current (let the voltage increase holding current constant)... can be done AC or DC (anodic(+) if DC) 12 volt supply may not be high enough voltage to get a decent thickness... more typically 24 - 36v for decent film growth, if I recall
What color(s) are you looking for?
also, the dyeing usually is done hot, and needs a sealer (boiling water acidified with acetic acid) to seal up the pores.
Disclaimer: This is an informational only post, not intended for production and or processing of any hardware or parts.
JJohn L.
Not too difficult... try to get "clean" battery acid (not brown dirty looking stuff) or it may not take the dye ...
Typical conditions 15% H2SO4, 20 asf ~ 20 minutes or so... run as constant current (let the voltage increase holding current constant)... can be done AC or DC (anodic(+) if DC) 12 volt supply may not be high enough voltage to get a decent thickness... more typically 24 - 36v for decent film growth, if I recall
What color(s) are you looking for?
also, the dyeing usually is done hot, and needs a sealer (boiling water acidified with acetic acid) to seal up the pores.
Disclaimer: This is an informational only post, not intended for production and or processing of any hardware or parts.
JJohn L.
I am not sure what color i want yet...i have heard that a real good dark black is difficult to obtain....i may try using a resist so i can do multiple layers...we'll see about that once i have done some experimenting.
15% H2SO4 - i am not sure what the battery acid strength is (I am getting 5 gallons new from NAPA) - what is 20asf mean?
the power supply i have is 12V DC...I had bought a computer PS for the purpose, but someone on audiocircle in TO has generously offered to lend me his 'vigor electro-plater'....
from what i have read, the sealing can be done just with boiling water, no? The 'sealant' is necessary mostly if you want to have a better protection from scratches, etc?
will post progress pix once i start 🙂
b
15% H2SO4 - i am not sure what the battery acid strength is (I am getting 5 gallons new from NAPA) - what is 20asf mean?
the power supply i have is 12V DC...I had bought a computer PS for the purpose, but someone on audiocircle in TO has generously offered to lend me his 'vigor electro-plater'....
from what i have read, the sealing can be done just with boiling water, no? The 'sealant' is necessary mostly if you want to have a better protection from scratches, etc?
will post progress pix once i start 🙂
b
anodizing
20asf = 20 amps / square foot... 12 volts probably will be difficult to get enough thickness to take the dye well...
vigor plating supply... not enough voltage... plating is totally different from anodizing... u can use 2 car batteries in series to get 24 volts... use light bulbs or other means to control current
Dark colors are tough w/o special treatments, especially with type II coatings...
Sealing with acidified DI boiling water helps to "set" the dye and keep it from leaching... good luck!!
Disclaimer: This is an informational only post, not intended for production and or processing of any hardware or parts.
John L.
20asf = 20 amps / square foot... 12 volts probably will be difficult to get enough thickness to take the dye well...
vigor plating supply... not enough voltage... plating is totally different from anodizing... u can use 2 car batteries in series to get 24 volts... use light bulbs or other means to control current
Dark colors are tough w/o special treatments, especially with type II coatings...
Sealing with acidified DI boiling water helps to "set" the dye and keep it from leaching... good luck!!
Disclaimer: This is an informational only post, not intended for production and or processing of any hardware or parts.
John L.
okay...I am going to give it a try anyway and see how it goes...I am not sure about the connecting car batteries together...ugh -this 'experiment' is dangerous enough already 🙂 ...i wonder if i could connect two computer power supplies in series using the 12V/10A outputs and then adjusting current, etc with light bulbs...
B
B
I have done anodizing once several years ago with data gleaned from the net.
I used a small welder for the power supply (dc)
I think it was running 20 amps
the cathode was a piece of lead salvaged from batteries melted to a 1/4 " sheet.
battery acid for electrolyte, fabric dye for color
results were acceptible for an amatuer operation although the piece I was anodizing was cast not extruded which makes a big difference
black and red are the best choices with fabric dye
BD
I used a small welder for the power supply (dc)
I think it was running 20 amps
the cathode was a piece of lead salvaged from batteries melted to a 1/4 " sheet.
battery acid for electrolyte, fabric dye for color
results were acceptible for an amatuer operation although the piece I was anodizing was cast not extruded which makes a big difference
black and red are the best choices with fabric dye
BD
You can boil battery acid or some drain cleaners to get very pure sulphuric acid. But be careful... obviously very careful.
boiling acid
Why would you want to do this? Pure sulphuric acid is pretty funky stuff for the uninitiated... not recommended
there are better ways of getting it than boiling drain cleaner
You don't need it for anodizing, that's for sure...
It's good for making TN..oops, nevermind...😉
John L.
Why would you want to do this? Pure sulphuric acid is pretty funky stuff for the uninitiated... not recommended
there are better ways of getting it than boiling drain cleaner
You don't need it for anodizing, that's for sure...
It's good for making TN..oops, nevermind...😉
John L.
For a $200 savings your going to possibly endanger you and yours? Hope your doing this in a remote location.
spock said:
I'm all in for the safety of any sort of activity, but this is really no big deal if you're equipped with a head on top of your shoulders.
Wear the required protective mask, gloves and eyewear, and make sure to have easy access to running cold water.
Anybody whom have had to deal with anodizing companies and small runs, knows that you just might be better off doing it yourself, at least it didn't cost you 200$ to have your parts messed up then 😉
Magura 🙂
i am not worried about the safety issues. I will be doing this in my backyard (assuming it warms up a few degrees in the next little while - brrr). Handling acid is no big deal as long as safety precautions are taken...the biggest one in this situation is that you don't want to be smoking or anything nearby - a lot of hydrogen and sparks mix all too well 🙂
In any case, i think maybe the suggestion about boiling battery acid is a little nuts - i can go to efston and get a litre of pure H2SO4 for about 35$...but i bought car battery acid because it's a little cheaper, and will do the same job (in fact i still need to weaken it).
B
and by the way, by the time it's all said and done, it'll probably end up costing more than if i sent it away...but it's for the experience of it!
In any case, i think maybe the suggestion about boiling battery acid is a little nuts - i can go to efston and get a litre of pure H2SO4 for about 35$...but i bought car battery acid because it's a little cheaper, and will do the same job (in fact i still need to weaken it).
B
and by the way, by the time it's all said and done, it'll probably end up costing more than if i sent it away...but it's for the experience of it!
Anodising...
Hi
I do my own anodising, using 10% by vol. sulphuric acid supplied by a firm stocking these chemicals.
The parts I anodise are very small and difficult to clamp without leaving marks. For this, I use titanium 3mm wire jigs which I've threaded to screw into similar sized threads.
The object you want to anodise must be perfectly clean and degreased by hotsoaking (again a proprietary chemical) but I think you can use a small brush with domestic Handy Andy. After this, I use phosphoric acid boiled to 100degrees C to give it a chemical polish. Final prep is immersion in nitric acid for 5mins, before it goes into the bath.
The sulphuric's temperature at ambient, will usually rise considerably during anodising. I therefore pre-cool the stuff to 10C, beforehand.
Too many other things to post here. Remember NEVER TO ADD WATER TO ACID!!!. Always Acid first!!!.
Disclaimer: This is a very dangerous job and best to get expert tutoring before you try.
bulgin
Hi
I do my own anodising, using 10% by vol. sulphuric acid supplied by a firm stocking these chemicals.
The parts I anodise are very small and difficult to clamp without leaving marks. For this, I use titanium 3mm wire jigs which I've threaded to screw into similar sized threads.
The object you want to anodise must be perfectly clean and degreased by hotsoaking (again a proprietary chemical) but I think you can use a small brush with domestic Handy Andy. After this, I use phosphoric acid boiled to 100degrees C to give it a chemical polish. Final prep is immersion in nitric acid for 5mins, before it goes into the bath.
The sulphuric's temperature at ambient, will usually rise considerably during anodising. I therefore pre-cool the stuff to 10C, beforehand.
Too many other things to post here. Remember NEVER TO ADD WATER TO ACID!!!. Always Acid first!!!.
Disclaimer: This is a very dangerous job and best to get expert tutoring before you try.
bulgin
Know of any businesses in CT that does anodising, uncle B?
I have two relatively large sinks I want blackened... about 20 x 20 x 4cm. Is it very expensive?
I have two relatively large sinks I want blackened... about 20 x 20 x 4cm. Is it very expensive?
DIY Anodising in Toronto
Hi Nordic
Best is to call Metalquip in Maitland for a few names. They are suppliers to the plating and anodising trade. Tel +27 +21 510 3264.
Sorry, I cannot recommend any particular firm locally.
bulgin (00m) as in Bond😀
Hi Nordic
Best is to call Metalquip in Maitland for a few names. They are suppliers to the plating and anodising trade. Tel +27 +21 510 3264.
Sorry, I cannot recommend any particular firm locally.
bulgin (00m) as in Bond😀
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