Jeez, that a whole lit of work gone into those - looking good.
Can't see any reason you can't separate the filters - has been done before and okay - there's quite a few that use connecting bars for external terminals.
None of mine even come close to the finish and detail of those - I'm a bit of a "clunky" design guy with large drivers and big chambers, usually still in the 'never finished' stage!
With some thought, you could possibly include some of your room characteristics into the Xover design - it's only really convention that has us building the speakers/Xovers for flat freq response. When we envisage using dsp, this is the first thing we look at but usually with passive speaker xovers, we are intent on trying to achieve flat response and tackle the room acoustics separately later on.
Can't see any reason you can't separate the filters - has been done before and okay - there's quite a few that use connecting bars for external terminals.
None of mine even come close to the finish and detail of those - I'm a bit of a "clunky" design guy with large drivers and big chambers, usually still in the 'never finished' stage!
With some thought, you could possibly include some of your room characteristics into the Xover design - it's only really convention that has us building the speakers/Xovers for flat freq response. When we envisage using dsp, this is the first thing we look at but usually with passive speaker xovers, we are intent on trying to achieve flat response and tackle the room acoustics separately later on.
After designing the crossover using the manufacture’s graphs, I took real measurements of the drivers in the cabinet in my room (plus a pinch of salt) so to a certain extent there is a bit of “room” in the final crossover.
There’s a hump at 40Hz which I’m sure is room gain so I’m leaving it in.
There’s a hump at 40Hz which I’m sure is room gain so I’m leaving it in.
Yeah, if that 40Hz isn't 'port honk', it could be quite useful altho above about 10dB can be a bit of a masking effect to bass clarity/definition - it'll be interesting to see ...
I'm a great enthusiast of Jim Smith's "Get Better Sound" - takes oodles of patience but can get quite dramatic improvements - it's an old book now, waiting for the pending update but is still available, I think - best $40 I spend in audio!
Worst would be a closed loop of large iron through a coil.
A single rod through a coil does significantly (few %?) raise the inductance but the distortion will be far less than a speaker.
Iron "outside" a coil has very little effect. (Yes, I am sure someone hears a difference.)
Stainless Steel comes in many grades. Some rust. Some are slightly magnetic. "Stainless" is more a marketing name for a wide range of Nickle+Iron alloys first noted for high temperature (low oxidation) then extended to stay bright and pretty.
Old RF workers had a stick with iron tip one end and brass tip the other end. Iron would lower the tuned frequency (raise the inductance). Brass tended to raise the tuned frequency by shorting-out some flux. (This may not work even at a megacycle.)
