Hi,
My decade old Creative Inspire 5.1 5300 started to show problem recently; the popping comes out randomly.
I am thinking of replacing the amplifier board, is there any recommendation on the board?
Alternatively is to do build standalone amplify, using back the existing speaker. For the sub-woofer, I think I will just make it a passive speaker. Any pointers for the board, and the necessary casing?
I am ok with doing some soldering.
Regards.
My decade old Creative Inspire 5.1 5300 started to show problem recently; the popping comes out randomly.
I am thinking of replacing the amplifier board, is there any recommendation on the board?
Alternatively is to do build standalone amplify, using back the existing speaker. For the sub-woofer, I think I will just make it a passive speaker. Any pointers for the board, and the necessary casing?
I am ok with doing some soldering.
Regards.
Check for bad caps, and dry joints.
Or this:5.1-6.1 Stereo Home Theater Kit Audio Amplifier Board 5 TRANSISTOR (TDA 2030,150W) at Rs 245/piece | Delhi| ID: 21360216430
Similar kits should be available in your area.
Or this:5.1-6.1 Stereo Home Theater Kit Audio Amplifier Board 5 TRANSISTOR (TDA 2030,150W) at Rs 245/piece | Delhi| ID: 21360216430
Similar kits should be available in your area.
You can fit the main board and linear power supply inside the woofer.
There is a video in Russian about using a FM/USB/Bluetooth as an improvement on YouTube.
Have fun
There is a video in Russian about using a FM/USB/Bluetooth as an improvement on YouTube.
Have fun
Thanks for the pointer.
1) I am still figuring out how to dismantle the subwoofer, so that I can take a closer look at the PCB. Seems that checking for bad caps and dry joints is not an easy task.
2) For the amplifier board that you have suggested, do you have more information on that? How is this board compared to TPA3116 basis?
3) With regards to the addon for FM/USB/Bluetooth, can you provide the link?
Regards.
1) I am still figuring out how to dismantle the subwoofer, so that I can take a closer look at the PCB. Seems that checking for bad caps and dry joints is not an easy task.
2) For the amplifier board that you have suggested, do you have more information on that? How is this board compared to TPA3116 basis?
3) With regards to the addon for FM/USB/Bluetooth, can you provide the link?
Regards.
There is usually a joint on the back or bottom of the woofer to put the circuit.
Blindly change the big caps to standard ones, as it is they are old and not likely to be from reputed suppliers.
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TPA 3116 no idea to compare.
Blindly change the big caps to standard ones, as it is they are old and not likely to be from reputed suppliers.
ESP 2.1 Home Theater Amplifier Board 100watt with Bass Boost Support TDA2030 Based Electronic Components Electronic Hobby Kit Price in India - Buy ESP 2.1 Home Theater Amplifier Board 100watt with Bass Boost Support TDA2030 Based Electronic Components Electronic Hobby Kit online at Flipkart.com
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TPA 3116 no idea to compare.
Thanks, NareshBrd.
These are my concerns:
1) How to I feed the sound into the amplifier? I am using the motherboard sound card, and it only has 5 channels analog out, and it do not have any optical out.
2) When replacing the amplifier board in the subwoofer, how do I secure it?
3) There bound to have heat generated, how is the heat to be dissipated?
4) Where can I get a case if I wish to make it a standalone amplifier?
I believed that the board should be powerful enough to push the subwoofer speaker (I am not sure what is the specs at the moment.
These are my concerns:
1) How to I feed the sound into the amplifier? I am using the motherboard sound card, and it only has 5 channels analog out, and it do not have any optical out.
2) When replacing the amplifier board in the subwoofer, how do I secure it?
3) There bound to have heat generated, how is the heat to be dissipated?
4) Where can I get a case if I wish to make it a standalone amplifier?
I believed that the board should be powerful enough to push the subwoofer speaker (I am not sure what is the specs at the moment.
What is your location?
First see what happened to the circuit, and all speakers are okay.
1. It has specific analog inputs, cords we get here.
2. The existing one is secured how? Use those mountings if possible. Or long screws with insulating stand offs.
3. Heat sink comes with the kit, may have to make holes in cabinet, but since the old one lasted so long, not going to be an issue.
4. Cases you can make from plywood, or sheet metal. Easiest to repurpose an old cabinet from VCR, dish receiver etc.
5. The woofer takes only about 10 WRMS, not a big load, certainly loud enough. Well within the kit capacity.
See your intended kit can drive 4/5 speakers and 1 woofer, different sellers have different models as per number of speakers.
And put a larger than recommended transformer, safer.
Not a SMPS/adapter fan...the power adapter looks tiny, that will give you the real story about output from the existing circuit.
Volts x Amps = Watts.
I do not expect more than 25 from that , the one in photos on the net.
First see what happened to the circuit, and all speakers are okay.
1. It has specific analog inputs, cords we get here.
2. The existing one is secured how? Use those mountings if possible. Or long screws with insulating stand offs.
3. Heat sink comes with the kit, may have to make holes in cabinet, but since the old one lasted so long, not going to be an issue.
4. Cases you can make from plywood, or sheet metal. Easiest to repurpose an old cabinet from VCR, dish receiver etc.
5. The woofer takes only about 10 WRMS, not a big load, certainly loud enough. Well within the kit capacity.
See your intended kit can drive 4/5 speakers and 1 woofer, different sellers have different models as per number of speakers.
And put a larger than recommended transformer, safer.
Not a SMPS/adapter fan...the power adapter looks tiny, that will give you the real story about output from the existing circuit.
Volts x Amps = Watts.
I do not expect more than 25 from that , the one in photos on the net.
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Finally managed to pull out the amplifier board. The capacity and the joints look ok.
IMG_20210713_190329[1] on Flickr
IMG_20210713_190310[1] on Flickr
IMG_20210713_190259[1] on Flickr
IMG_20210713_190232[1] on Flickr
Anyway, I have replaced it with a Logitech speaker set.
IMG_20210713_190329[1] on FlickrIMG_20210713_190310[1] on FlickrIMG_20210713_190259[1] on FlickrIMG_20210713_190232[1] on FlickrAnyway, I have replaced it with a Logitech speaker set.
Looks like it needs minor maintenance, the capacitors are cheap 85 degrees, but the ICs are Philips and ST, so worth the trouble.
Change the power supply capacitors ,check speaker connectors and for burn marks, and generally any loose contacts.
Remove the glue from the track side, sometimes it becomes conductive.
It looks well made ..
Change the power supply capacitors ,check speaker connectors and for burn marks, and generally any loose contacts.
Remove the glue from the track side, sometimes it becomes conductive.
It looks well made ..
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There are quite a number of GR85 degrees capacitors, do you mean to replace all of them? Or just the big capacitor? What are the better capacitors?
The location for most is next to the heat sink...so need to change.
First the smoothing capacitors in the power supply, and the coupling capacitors in the input to the chip amp.
Where are you in India?
If possible get Keltron, they are cheap and good, do not go for exotic Japanese.
What are the main amp chips? The quality possible from those will decide the performance.
But first remove the glue, I use a sharp paper cutter, that glue might have gone conductive.
After that, spray the pots and reflow the power in, input and speaker out solder connections.
Check for improvement.
Then, as this is a nice unit, and you have a spare, put new capacitors, and make holes in the cabinet if needed to ensure the heat sink area stays cool, high temperatures cause capacitors to fail early.
GR is an unknown brand for me.
Japanese capacitors are about 10 times Chinese price, and about 3 x Keltron in bulk.
Unless your amp is very good, and your source, you are wasting money on exotics, as Keltron is a licensee of Sprague Belgium. So good that fakes are available, buy from a reliable seller.
Put the next higher voltage value like 35 in place of 25, or go straight for 63, those seem to be easily available here.
First the smoothing capacitors in the power supply, and the coupling capacitors in the input to the chip amp.
Where are you in India?
If possible get Keltron, they are cheap and good, do not go for exotic Japanese.
What are the main amp chips? The quality possible from those will decide the performance.
But first remove the glue, I use a sharp paper cutter, that glue might have gone conductive.
After that, spray the pots and reflow the power in, input and speaker out solder connections.
Check for improvement.
Then, as this is a nice unit, and you have a spare, put new capacitors, and make holes in the cabinet if needed to ensure the heat sink area stays cool, high temperatures cause capacitors to fail early.
GR is an unknown brand for me.
Japanese capacitors are about 10 times Chinese price, and about 3 x Keltron in bulk.
Unless your amp is very good, and your source, you are wasting money on exotics, as Keltron is a licensee of Sprague Belgium. So good that fakes are available, buy from a reliable seller.
Put the next higher voltage value like 35 in place of 25, or go straight for 63, those seem to be easily available here.
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Not sure which is the smoothing capacitors, seems to me that there is quite a number of them.
1) The big blue capacitor (photo 4)
2) the series of blue capacitors behind the heat sink (photo 2 and 3), and
3) the series of black capacitors (next to the heat sink).
I am from Singapore, and I am very noob to all this electronic stuffs, just my interest.
BTW, there is an external power adapter. so, I do not know if there is any issue with it, and will it have any impact or not.
I thought the glue can be removed easily using rubbing alcohol?
Are the 2 black big chips on the heatsink (photo 4) the main amp chips? Both from Philips. On the right, TDA8511J, and on the left is TDA8510J.
1) The big blue capacitor (photo 4)
2) the series of blue capacitors behind the heat sink (photo 2 and 3), and
3) the series of black capacitors (next to the heat sink).
I am from Singapore, and I am very noob to all this electronic stuffs, just my interest.
BTW, there is an external power adapter. so, I do not know if there is any issue with it, and will it have any impact or not.
I thought the glue can be removed easily using rubbing alcohol?
Are the 2 black big chips on the heatsink (photo 4) the main amp chips? Both from Philips. On the right, TDA8511J, and on the left is TDA8510J.
I will check it out...the smoothing capacitors are there at the inlet from the power supply.
If you can, post a photo of the mains adapter name plate, if the details are visible.
Cut off the glue, alcohol will remove the printing om the components and PCB
If you can, post a photo of the mains adapter name plate, if the details are visible.
Cut off the glue, alcohol will remove the printing om the components and PCB
8510 is 4 single ended amps, 4 x 7W/ 4 ohms
8511 is 1 26W and 2 x 7W / 4 ohms
Distortion is 10% at full power.
Both are 15 Volts typical and 18 Volts max., you can use 25 V capacitors, 35 is preferable.
Both have 2200 uF as smoothing and 1000 uF as output coupling capacitors.
Change them to 105 degrees Japanese, German,American or Taiwan make capacitors, should be within 3 US for the lot.
Enjoy
8511 is 1 26W and 2 x 7W / 4 ohms
Distortion is 10% at full power.
Both are 15 Volts typical and 18 Volts max., you can use 25 V capacitors, 35 is preferable.
Both have 2200 uF as smoothing and 1000 uF as output coupling capacitors.
Change them to 105 degrees Japanese, German,American or Taiwan make capacitors, should be within 3 US for the lot.
Enjoy
Here is the photo of the nameplate (if I get it correctly).
IMG_20210715_111140[1] on Flickr
To link up the photos,
The power input will link to the left-most line on the PCB (Photo 1), passing through a 3A (if I interpret correctly) in the middle, to 2 of the black capacitors(?) at the lower right corner of Photo 4.
After that it should go to the big blue capacity, 6800uF, 25V on the right middle of the Photo 4.
Beyond that, I am lost.
IMG_20210715_111140[1] on FlickrTo link up the photos,
The power input will link to the left-most line on the PCB (Photo 1), passing through a 3A (if I interpret correctly) in the middle, to 2 of the black capacitors(?) at the lower right corner of Photo 4.
After that it should go to the big blue capacity, 6800uF, 25V on the right middle of the Photo 4.
Beyond that, I am lost.
That is a bridge rectifier
4 diodes.
The 6800 is the common smoothing capacitor for both ICs
Cut off all the glue from capacitors and PCB using a knife. Then use a hair drier or heat gun to remove the excess left over.
Then see what happens.
4 diodes.
The 6800 is the common smoothing capacitor for both ICs
Cut off all the glue from capacitors and PCB using a knife. Then use a hair drier or heat gun to remove the excess left over.
Then see what happens.
You have a multi meter?
If not, get one each analog and digital, they start about $5 US here for decent ones.
If not, get one each analog and digital, they start about $5 US here for decent ones.
Sharp cutter, old tooth brush, iso alcohol and leaded solder 60/40 or 63/37 are also needed.
Start by removing all the glue, particularly off the tracks, and capacitor tops.
Spray all the pots, in the unit as well as remote volume, and the power in jack also. Contact cleaner, WD40 is dangerous to plastic at times.
Reflow all the joints, particularly at the in/out points, power connector too.
Sharp knife to cut glue, alcohol and brush for cleaning solder flux.
Leaded solder as lead free has a tendency to get dry joints, it is brittle compared to regular solder.
Then check and tell how it sounds.
Start by removing all the glue, particularly off the tracks, and capacitor tops.
Spray all the pots, in the unit as well as remote volume, and the power in jack also. Contact cleaner, WD40 is dangerous to plastic at times.
Reflow all the joints, particularly at the in/out points, power connector too.
Sharp knife to cut glue, alcohol and brush for cleaning solder flux.
Leaded solder as lead free has a tendency to get dry joints, it is brittle compared to regular solder.
Then check and tell how it sounds.
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