Hi All,
I'm Franksch from the Netherlands and I'm new at this forum, my challenge is to make some difficult designed loudspeakers by hand.
I was impressed by the design of diapason loudspeakers systems, so I wanted to produce a set based on the astera model with my own hands and handcrafted machines.
First I had to make a decent drawing by computer, my friend Cor helped me with that.
Here are the first pictures
Gr Franksch
I'm Franksch from the Netherlands and I'm new at this forum, my challenge is to make some difficult designed loudspeakers by hand.
I was impressed by the design of diapason loudspeakers systems, so I wanted to produce a set based on the astera model with my own hands and handcrafted machines.
First I had to make a decent drawing by computer, my friend Cor helped me with that.
Here are the first pictures
Gr Franksch
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The drivers I will use are the same as used in the original astera, mid Seas W18NX001 and tweeter Seas t29cf002. I purchased the mids already and they are playing now in my "first attempt diapason" speakers, which I made a year ago.
The design of the crossover will be a hell of a job for me because my knowledge of electrical networks is not that big
, it will be based on the seas diy design of the bifrost model from Seas
Gr Franksch
The design of the crossover will be a hell of a job for me because my knowledge of electrical networks is not that big
, it will be based on the seas diy design of the bifrost model from SeasGr Franksch
Very nice job, my friend!
I suppose the midrange response would change a little from the original SEAS Bifrost cabinet, but not much.
But I did notice those resistors look a bit underrated for the job. What are they? Metal Film 1W types? You'd probably want around 7 to 10W wire wound with a tweeter that might get up to 10W power. Hope it helps.
I suppose the midrange response would change a little from the original SEAS Bifrost cabinet, but not much.
But I did notice those resistors look a bit underrated for the job. What are they? Metal Film 1W types? You'd probably want around 7 to 10W wire wound with a tweeter that might get up to 10W power. Hope it helps.
Hi Steve,
Thanks for your reply, the crossover is mounted external for the period. I now have to listen and determine the right values for the components which have to be used. when I finish all the tests, the components will be replaced by better one's, also the resistors.
Do you have some suggestions, to optimalize, the crossover.
grtz Frank
Thanks for your reply, the crossover is mounted external for the period. I now have to listen and determine the right values for the components which have to be used. when I finish all the tests, the components will be replaced by better one's, also the resistors.
Do you have some suggestions, to optimalize, the crossover.
grtz Frank
I think it's a very good crossover.
Bifrost
It does everything right. Impedance at the top is an amp friendly 10 ohms so it'll not distort even with average transistor amplification. The third order bass is theoretically (3:1 inductance ratio including the driver Le) correct for a Le 0.43 low inductance paper woofer.
I couldn't come up with anything better. When you do stuff that is more complicated and steeper slopes, it often loses something in vitality.
Bifrost
It does everything right. Impedance at the top is an amp friendly 10 ohms so it'll not distort even with average transistor amplification. The third order bass is theoretically (3:1 inductance ratio including the driver Le) correct for a Le 0.43 low inductance paper woofer.
I couldn't come up with anything better. When you do stuff that is more complicated and steeper slopes, it often loses something in vitality.
I made some changes to the original crossover, the first coil in the 3e order low pass section is changed to 3,7 mH, the attenuation path of the high pass section is changed to a serial resistor of 6,8 Ohm, and a parallel resistor of 8,2 ohm. A friend of mine advised me so, and it sounds great with this crossover.
I just have to finetune it.
Grtz Frank
I just have to finetune it.
Grtz Frank
That makes sense. Narrower baffle needs a bigger BSC coil, and then you attenuate the tweeter more to match.
These sort of projects are a labour of love. I'm always impressed.
Edit: No, wait, I'm not sure. I think I'll have to sim this!
Edit 2: Well, just had a look, it makes the speaker bassier for sure!
These sort of projects are a labour of love. I'm always impressed.
Edit: No, wait, I'm not sure. I think I'll have to sim this!
Edit 2: Well, just had a look, it makes the speaker bassier for sure!
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