According to Hi-Fi Database the recommended amplifier power for the 25 is 10 - 120W and it's 10 - 160W for the 66.
The small difference could be down to the speakers having different crossover points and/or the fact they have different mid and treble drivers.
The bass drivers will have identical capabilities.
The small difference could be down to the speakers having different crossover points and/or the fact they have different mid and treble drivers.
The bass drivers will have identical capabilities.
So, Dom, your dream has come true! 🙂Originally Posted by Landlesspeasant >
I've got dreams of owning a pair of 66's
Are we in for another marathon thread like the one on your Ditton 25s? 😎
Hi there .. How you doin .. good i hope
Yeah i managed to tick these 66's off the bucket list .... And they are fantastic ... 🙂 they need a bit of TLC .. will post later the details .
thanks for your help again ... At 1st glance the 2 diagrams match closely but not identical ... many thanks for your help Dom
Yeah i managed to tick these 66's off the bucket list .... And they are fantastic ... 🙂 they need a bit of TLC .. will post later the details .
thanks for your help again ... At 1st glance the 2 diagrams match closely but not identical ... many thanks for your help Dom
You can compare your crossover circuit with the version I have attached.
I haven't compared them myself, Dom, so tell us what you think.
so after checking both diagrams your one varies from mine in 2 places .. one might be an oversight
for pos C4 +C5 on my diagram =30uf position C7 on yours is 24uf may be the 6uf got missed by mistake..
I'll check befor ordering the new caps
So, Dom, your dream has come true! 🙂
Are we in for another marathon thread like the one on your Ditton 25s? 😎
I got these a couple of months back .. and WOW they are absolutely fantastic .. Having listened to the 25's for most of my life ... the improvement is huge ... The Mid MF500 is so open its hard to put into words what they can sound like.. It has a reverb chamber on the back which I think cos its metal it affects the sound electronicly and not just acoustically ... cymbols now just sounds so clear and 3D . the bass is really tight and deep.. Every thing sounds more open and so effortless .Voices are a delight .. the tube shape of the box adds a semi transmission line to the bass ... I was listening to 2 pairs of 25's befor buying these and the bass now has almost no boom to it .... don't get me wrong .. the 25's were great ... but they were all ways a compromised version of the 66's ... my last pair of 25's cost me just £100 and these cost £600 .. and no doubt , these are worth it ... deffo put them on your bucket list .. and dont wait 40 years like I did lol
to sum up .. They sound so open and honest... and do it all so effortlessly ... a real joy to listen to ..
So now to their current issues .....
One of the bass drivers has minute hairline cracks appearing in one section of the rubber suround .. And after feeling the quality of the rubber .. its thinner and weaker in places than on my latest pair of 25s ... which seemed to have started life with a more robust and thicker rubber surround ...
So can I just swap the drivers over .?
. On the negative side .. the Doping of the paper on the 25's drivers has been done with much less finesse than the 66's so its not as smooth or as good to look at .
Will its mottled appearance detract from the clarity of the sound ??. from the 2 pics the 25 driver has the glue smear (plug socket in pic) on it from manufacture.... the other pic is the 66
I did a utube sonic test on them and they go almost silent at about 90hz ..on one test and fade out at about 30hz too .... I'm not sure about the acuracy of the utube video ... if anyone wants to test it on thier set up and let me know what they think ,I would be greatful
Bass Test - 2000Hz - 1Hz. (Test your Subwoofer or Headphones, how low can you go 🙂 ?) - YouTube
The other issue I have found is ..... not enuff glue was used when putting them together .. some places seemed to have not been glued at all.. the bracing needs glue blocks to attach it to the front and back of the box .. .and the join between the back and the bottom was just held together with paint .. no glue at all .. so not air tight .( see pic of invisable gap between base and back ).. I found that out while blasting out Dub Searcher by Numa Crew ... while pushing out the big bass notes, they were making a noise like someone farting thru a trumpet or kazoo .. this will be an easy fix and Im expecting great results from stiffening the boxes with a few glue blocks 🙂
So not being a soldering ninja .. I am wondering about changing the wiring inside for some common 13amp mains cable see pic .. I dont really wanna go over board with the OFC as I'm not sure its worth it .. would I notice the difference with the mains cable ?
All advice greatly appreciated .. cheers 🙂
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sorry got to ask...i know most people feel they can hear a difference with grills off and think it looks cool but doesn't that increase potential risk of damage to the drivers, not to mention UV exposure...
sorry i guess i'm victimized by WAF and i'm subconsciously jealous.
leaving your loudspeakers naked is like letting your daughter go topless!
sorry i guess i'm victimized by WAF and i'm subconsciously jealous.
leaving your loudspeakers naked is like letting your daughter go topless!
🙂 .. Ive not listened to them with the grills on yet ... they are very heavy .. And as I understand it .. these were designed for the BBC green rooms .. a semi public enviroment .. Hence the heavy duty metal grills , that can only be removed by laying them on their back and undoing the screw .at the bottom .. public proof grills ,was the remit i think 🙂
. And my daughter is now 26 .. if I get grand children .. then the grills will deffo be going on..
. And my daughter is now 26 .. if I get grand children .. then the grills will deffo be going on..
grand children are inevitable... if you allow your daughter to go topless 😀
oh wait you mean driver damage from the grandkids!
oh wait you mean driver damage from the grandkids!
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Firstly, the Celestion T2619 woofer is common to the 25, 44 and 66 speakers.
The cracked surrounds are a 'no-no' so swap the woofers.
The mottled appearance of the replacement woofer cones is extremely unlikely to affect the sound.
The present wiring is of adequate thickness. From a physics perspective, the short lengths of connecting wire inside a loudspeaker enclosure offer so little resistance to the flow of current as to be electrically invisible.
The cracked surrounds are a 'no-no' so swap the woofers.
The mottled appearance of the replacement woofer cones is extremely unlikely to affect the sound.
The present wiring is of adequate thickness. From a physics perspective, the short lengths of connecting wire inside a loudspeaker enclosure offer so little resistance to the flow of current as to be electrically invisible.
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Thanks .Galu.. .. they also need a coat of paint on the front to smarten them up , which might not happen if I dont need to change the wiring...And on the actual ABR !.to cover up the messy glue ... not sure if thats a step to far as this will add a bit of weight and not sure if the polystyrine will like being painted !! ??. ...
Use acrylic paint to ensure you do not dissolve the polystyrene.
Buy a spray can - a light spray coat will add negligible weight.
Buy a spray can - a light spray coat will add negligible weight.
The correct value is 30uF.for pos C4 +C5 on my diagram =30uf position C7 on yours is 24uf may be the 6uf got missed by mistake..
I'll check befor ordering the new caps
I've got 2 pair of Celestion 12", 1 pair being T1600, the other T2619 and they look very similar, magnet size, basket, etc. The surrounds differ in terms of weight, and they measure very differently.
I redid a pair of Ditton 44s for my niece and her partner, and to be blunt, the cabinet construction was crap: extremely cheap chipboard, gaps in the midrange enclosure, and virtually no bracing. It was not the height of British craftsmanship.
I redid a pair of Ditton 44s for my niece and her partner, and to be blunt, the cabinet construction was crap: extremely cheap chipboard, gaps in the midrange enclosure, and virtually no bracing. It was not the height of British craftsmanship.
Thanks for that info..
. What was the easist way to tell the difference between the 2 types T1600 and T2619 ?
. What was the easist way to tell the difference between the 2 types T1600 and T2619 ?
The correct value is 30uF.
cheers .. I thought so .....
one of the diagrams is labled PCC and the other TBC .. any idea why ?
No idea what the labels mean.
I found the attached view of the Ditton 66 crossover board on The Art of Sound forum. Renovation of Celestion 66 Studio Monitors - Page 2
The component values in brackets are the target values that you require.
You may have seen this already, but I add it here for future reference.
I found the attached view of the Ditton 66 crossover board on The Art of Sound forum. Renovation of Celestion 66 Studio Monitors - Page 2
The component values in brackets are the target values that you require.
You may have seen this already, but I add it here for future reference.
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