One thing that you can try now is, disconnect one woofer so the amp will face 8 ohm load.
The sound maybe better 🙂
If it is better try the "Bi-amping" system.
The chip amp mostly design for 8 ohm load & if using 4 ohm load you must decrease the voltage.
If you make it more powerful(more voltage) then you may destroy the chip
I though more amps is better
BP300, I believe this amp is not for newbies
The sound maybe better 🙂
If it is better try the "Bi-amping" system.
The chip amp mostly design for 8 ohm load & if using 4 ohm load you must decrease the voltage.
If you make it more powerful(more voltage) then you may destroy the chip
I though more amps is better
BP300, I believe this amp is not for newbies
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I agree.....................BP300, I believe this amp is not for newbies
200W into 4ohms amplifier will work effectively with a 200VA to 400VA transformer.
A stereo 200W+200W amplifier will work effectively with a 400VA to 800VA transformer.
Your 350VA is getting very close to that 400VA lower limit.
If you have already bought it, use it.
You will get 100W+100W into 8ohms and 200W into 4ohms and provided you don't run it too hard it will produce a reliable 180W+180W into 4ohms. IF you Build it Right.
BTW, a mosfet output stage nearly always gives less output power than a BJT output stage from the same PSU. A CFP mosFET output stage can match a BJT output stage for power output.
A stereo 200W+200W amplifier will work effectively with a 400VA to 800VA transformer.
Your 350VA is getting very close to that 400VA lower limit.
If you have already bought it, use it.
You will get 100W+100W into 8ohms and 200W into 4ohms and provided you don't run it too hard it will produce a reliable 180W+180W into 4ohms. IF you Build it Right.
BTW, a mosfet output stage nearly always gives less output power than a BJT output stage from the same PSU. A CFP mosFET output stage can match a BJT output stage for power output.
What about the crossover 😕One thing that you can try now is, disconnect one woofer so the amp will face 8 ohm load.
The sound maybe better 🙂
If it is better try the "Bi-amping" system.
The chip amp mostly design for 8 ohm load & if using 4 ohm load you must decrease the voltage.
If you make it more powerful(more voltage) then you may destroy the chip
I though more amps is better
BP300, I believe this amp is not for newbies
I agree.
So, which amp you are recommending me to try considering the awkward arrangement or driver set up used by my speaker ?200W into 4ohms amplifier will work effectively with a 200VA to 400VA transformer.
A stereo 200W+200W amplifier will work effectively with a 400VA to 800VA transformer.
Your 350VA is getting very close to that 400VA lower limit.
If you have already bought it, use it.
You will get 100W+100W into 8ohms and 200W into 4ohms and provided you don't run it too hard it will produce a reliable 180W+180W into 4ohms. IF you Build it Right.
BTW, a mosfet output stage nearly always gives less output power than a BJT output stage from the same PSU. A CFP mosFET output stage can match a BJT output stage for power output.
My post#35 was a response to your request in another thread, where u linked this thread.
The two amps I suggested have extensive material, Symasym on diyaudio and Leach on the net, and a noob can find all the help on those pages.
Gajanan Phadte
The two amps I suggested have extensive material, Symasym on diyaudio and Leach on the net, and a noob can find all the help on those pages.
Gajanan Phadte
My post#35 was a response to your request in another thread, where u linked this thread.
The two amps I suggested have extensive material, Symasym on diyaudio and Leach on the net, and a noob can find all the help on those pages.
Gajanan Phadte
You said Symasym have boomy bass => not great. So, whats left is Leech amp.
So, I'm gonna do the Leech amp. Gonna check the parts list and see if I can get it here.
I've built two Symasym amps and two Leach amps not to mention a few others. The Symasym is a really, really good sounding amp. Easier to build and needs less power than the Leach. I don't think the bass is boomy at all. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
Hi Terry i can't see any Bora amplifier in your collection.I've built two Symasym amps and two Leach amps not to mention a few others. The Symasym is a really, really good sounding amp. Easier to build and needs less power than the Leach. I don't think the bass is boomy at all. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
Is on your plan to build any of them?
Thimios.
I am inclined to agree with you.I've built two Symasym amps and two Leach amps not to mention a few others. The Symasym is a really, really good sounding amp. Easier to build and needs less power than the Leach. I don't think the bass is boomy at all. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
I see no reason to describe the Symasym as "boomy".
It is much more likely it is a difference in set up that has resulted in a boomy bass. Something I hate and will try to "tune out" of a speaker location. I never blame the amplifier, even though I set the amps up to deliver well below 20Hz.
I've built two Symasym amps and two Leach amps not to mention a few others. The Symasym is a really, really good sounding amp. Easier to build and needs less power than the Leach. I don't think the bass is boomy at all. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
I have a symasym from earlier build but currently, I use the Leach. I will have to wire it (symasym) for comparison. But my Leach amp sounds much better than original design (improved mids and highs) due to my modification.
This Leach mod was also done by another diyer and he also appreciates the improvement.
Gajanan Phadte
Cool 😎I am inclined to agree with you.
I see no reason to describe the Symasym as "boomy".
It is much more likely it is a difference in set up that has resulted in a boomy bass. Something I hate and will try to "tune out" of a speaker location. I never blame the amplifier, even though I set the amps up to deliver well below 20Hz.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...ifier-designed-michael-bittner-our-mikeb.htmlThere is a thread for symasym here
something like
Explendid amplifier by Mike B
Gajanan Phadte
This one ?
But the rated power is only 50W into 8 ohm.
Thats very interesting.I have a symasym from earlier build but currently, I use the Leach. I will have to wire it (symasym) for comparison. But my Leach amp sounds much better than original design (improved mids and highs) due to my modification.
This Leach mod was also done by another diyer and he also appreciates the improvement.
Gajanan Phadte
A dual Symasym was designed and built and offered as a group buy.
This allows good performance into 4ohms speaker. With a small increase in supply voltage you can get considerably more than the 80 to 90W into 4ohms expected from the standard Symasym.
This allows good performance into 4ohms speaker. With a small increase in supply voltage you can get considerably more than the 80 to 90W into 4ohms expected from the standard Symasym.
A dual Symasym was designed and built and offered as a group buy.
This allows good performance into 4ohms speaker. With a small increase in supply voltage you can get considerably more than the 80 to 90W into 4ohms expected from the standard Symasym.
I'm very confused now on which amp to go for !
Let me state my setup BTW.
Source: PC - Intel i5 4430, Gigbyte B85 D3H with Realtec ALC 892
Preamp: T-Preamp, Super Simple Preamp (yet to build it)
Music: Enigma, Creed, Cold Play, Shinedown etc
Room: Medium size with 4 windows and 2 doors open.
Speakers: Magnat Monitor Supreme 1000, 4 drivers 3-way speaker
92 DB sensitivity, 8ohm for mids and tweeter and 4 ohm for bass.
What about this one ?
Wintek - 200W Mono (2SA1943 / 2SC5200)
2pair of genuine 1943/5200 cannot do 200W into 4ohms reliably.
Using the rule Max Power equals total device power divided by five, gives a 2pair limit of about 120W into 4ohms.
And because the 1943/5200 has terrible SOA @ higher voltages, the limit (dividing by six) for 8ohms is even lower at about 100W into 8ohms.
Using the rule Max Power equals total device power divided by five, gives a 2pair limit of about 120W into 4ohms.
And because the 1943/5200 has terrible SOA @ higher voltages, the limit (dividing by six) for 8ohms is even lower at about 100W into 8ohms.
2pair of genuine 1943/5200 cannot do 200W into 4ohms reliably.
Using the rule Max Power equals total device power divided by five, gives a 2pair limit of about 120W into 4ohms.
And because the 1943/5200 has terrible SOA @ higher voltages, the limit (dividing by six) for 8ohms is even lower at about 100W into 8ohms.
Oh oh ! Didn't know that, thanks for the headsup 🙂
BTW, what about the "Apex Audio B500" ?
The ebay dealer I mentioned earlier says he has the "Toshiba 1943/1952 + TL072" based Apex Audio B500 with only 3 pair of 1943/5200 instead of 5 Pairs (.
He can send a completed and tested PCB or he can send the PCB with good quality components with telephone and email assistance to do the assembly and troubleshooting.
Have anyone tested an Apex Audio B500 ?
B500 is the first amp in the forum I've made
You remind me to my first diyAudio amp that I made few years ago...
I choose it because it's parts is easy to source too.
here the thread :
B500 original by apexaudio
Regards
Many people has build it 🙂BTW, what about the "Apex Audio B500" ?
....
Have anyone tested an Apex Audio B500 ?
You remind me to my first diyAudio amp that I made few years ago...
I choose it because it's parts is easy to source too.
here the thread :
B500 original by apexaudio
Regards
High voltage amplifiers using genuine 1943/5200 are a trap for the unwary.
Using fakes they become a disaster.
Using fakes they become a disaster.
Many people has build it 🙂
You remind me to my first diyAudio amp that I made few years ago...
I choose it because it's parts is easy to source too.
here the thread :
B500 original by apexaudio
Regards
And how was the sound in reference to the LM3886 amps ?
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