My thoughts of yesterday: put the woofers horizontally.
My thoughts of today: put the four woofers in one speaker, and make a waveguide (for mid bass!)
My thoughts of today: put the four woofers in one speaker, and make a waveguide (for mid bass!)
That's getting close to the original idea of building a four woofer back loaded horn! That came in at 1m³. I made a cardboard box of that and then decided that it was a bit too large. That design also included a bas-mid in the same style as the mid I use now. That one was huge and I had no idea how to build it. 3D printing wasn't a thing then.My thoughts of yesterday: put the woofers horizontally.
My thoughts of today: put the four woofers in one speaker, and make a waveguide (for mid bass!)
The problems are following, as I see them:
1. 800Hz is 43cm long, and acoustic centar of your lower woofer is at least 40cm away from the horn. That could be the problem. I don't know how is this being solved in original design. Placing woofers horizontally could solve this, as the horn radiates 120 degrees horizontally. I know you don't plan to keep them that way, but for sake of experiment, try it.
2. There is a suckout in lower mids/bass, due to narrower baffle, and no baffle step compensation. You would have that problem even if you had made the original enclosure, but it would happen little lower in frequency.
Question is, what are you willing/can do without measurements?
Can you amplify the frequencies in sub 400Hz region and have a listen?
Could you make an active lowpass crossover for lower unit? So you would use it only for baffle step compensation. Something as 3.5 way sistem.
1. 800Hz is 43cm long, and acoustic centar of your lower woofer is at least 40cm away from the horn. That could be the problem. I don't know how is this being solved in original design. Placing woofers horizontally could solve this, as the horn radiates 120 degrees horizontally. I know you don't plan to keep them that way, but for sake of experiment, try it.
2. There is a suckout in lower mids/bass, due to narrower baffle, and no baffle step compensation. You would have that problem even if you had made the original enclosure, but it would happen little lower in frequency.
Question is, what are you willing/can do without measurements?
Can you amplify the frequencies in sub 400Hz region and have a listen?
Could you make an active lowpass crossover for lower unit? So you would use it only for baffle step compensation. Something as 3.5 way sistem.
Then find out what kind of music they like!If I play it loud (neighbourg disturbing loud) then it is ok.
impressive that you were able to physically produce that horn shape. this doesn't strike me as a design that makes a lot of sense but that's not why it sounds "tinny" - it's your DSP tuning ( or lack thereof ) and your room. anyway nothing some EQ and bass traps can't fix IMO.As a member of this forum I already have a mental condition 😛
Coupling directly the woofers might be an idea. But you misunderstood about the Fostex, I did like them at all. I trew the boxes away and the drivers just sit in their box under the desk.
Here you are, before I put on a few coats of varnish. (it is already somewhere on the forum but I don't know where I put it):
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keep in mind though that fat bass requires POWA. we're talking 1KW to 10KW here. i don't know what AMP you DIYed but as i previously said by the time you apply the correct EQ curve you may not have enough power.
no of course i am not saying your drivers can handle a kilowatt of power but it is quite likely they can handle more than your amp can deliver depending on what amp it is ( i don't build amps so can't say either way ).
it's just you seem to be avoiding the issue of electronically boosting bass so it sounds as if you are under-powered and wanted to build high efficiency speakers because of that but didn't understand that there is no such thing as high efficiency bass.
bass needs power. PERIOD. if you want high efficiency speakers with like 5 watt amplifier then you will have to accept "tinny" sound.
again, i don't build amps so i have no idea what amp you're working with but this is the picture i'm geting. that you aren't OK with EQing the system because then your 100 db system will become 80 db system defeating the purpose ...
well maybe you should have considered that there is a reason why the industry moved away from certain designs and that if you build a 50 year old design you will have to accept the kind of performance people accepted 50 years ago - meaning NO BASS.
bass is a recent invention you know ? do you think the original gramophones had bass ?
real bass only became a thing when Class D amplifiers hit the scene and that happened when i was in college.
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as a very quick fix for REW on Linux, try creating a new user account, and install/run REW under that account, or using su/sudo. It's inelegant, and not the way to correct the issue, but it'll likely give you a working REW at least enough to take a series of measurements to begin to get your head around what's going on.Baffle is 34.4cm wide. There is separate volume control on each channel bass-mid-high.
But I agree, I need to get something to measure up and running. Sadly REW is out of action. And I don't know about anything else on Linux.
Regarding using manufacturer crossover.
Below is the one recommended for my speaker
How does it sound? Awful. Exactly as it measures. Did I stick with it? No!
So you should not trust blindly. The reason is my baffle is completely non-standard and also even if slopes and sensitivity is more or less matched, you still need notch filters and baffle corrections. Your baffle is also non-standard to the original project. Woofers are different.
I looked at that MONITOR 890 MK III project... It has passive crossover provided, and what I see it is crossover with reasonable amounts of parts, so the slopes are not so steep, does not look 24dB and not many other filters. On 45 post long thread we still have no clue, what are the exact settings of your active Behringer DSP. Got phone with camera? On post #34 you already got an advice, and it is a one-evening task to replicate that passive crossover in active system. That will be great starting point as you trust all the other thing in your system now.
It is looking masochistic a little...
Below is the one recommended for my speaker
How does it sound? Awful. Exactly as it measures. Did I stick with it? No!
So you should not trust blindly. The reason is my baffle is completely non-standard and also even if slopes and sensitivity is more or less matched, you still need notch filters and baffle corrections. Your baffle is also non-standard to the original project. Woofers are different.
I looked at that MONITOR 890 MK III project... It has passive crossover provided, and what I see it is crossover with reasonable amounts of parts, so the slopes are not so steep, does not look 24dB and not many other filters. On 45 post long thread we still have no clue, what are the exact settings of your active Behringer DSP. Got phone with camera? On post #34 you already got an advice, and it is a one-evening task to replicate that passive crossover in active system. That will be great starting point as you trust all the other thing in your system now.
It is looking masochistic a little...
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