So you admitted your "mistake", good.
Commercial manufacturers don't, they must adhere to strict procedures, testing, and laws concerning electrical equipment before anything is released to the public for sale.
That includes things like surge suppressors on the line as well, to prevent damage or malfunctioning due to power line fluctuations.
Perhaps, but it didn't save the controller board in my new front-loading washing machine.
I loathe any appliance like washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, etc, with "electronic" controls.
I absolutely hate them things.
All my major appliances are "old school" types, mechanical timer "dials" and "knobs".
Because in my opinion, they last a lot longer time, and are much more immune to failure from electrical "surges".
My next door neighbor has all those new-ish appliances, and has had numerous "electronics" fail.
While my 1972 dishwasher, my 1984 washing machine, and my 1986 refrigerator are humming along just fine, performing perfectly.
"They don't make things like they used to" - that saying is the truth.
With copper wiring, the next thing I would check is that the load is balanced. A simple check of the voltage on a few of the outlets will tell you that. If they are within 6 volts of each other that is barely adequate. The other test is the voltage between the neutral now called the grounded conductor and the safety ground.
I tested all the outlets around the house last night. I guess my monster power unit has a bad meter. Or I need to adjust it
It reads 129 volts. As I tested all the outlets and they read from a low of 115.8 volts and for a high of 118.3 volts. Not good at all
Next I’m going to test all the 220 outlets and see what I get
Next will be to pull the panel cover off and do readings off of each leg and see how much of a loss of power from each breaker to each outlet, fingers crossed that I only have 1 or 2 volt loss at these. Lest will be to test the outside main panel and see what the reading is there. I have found this out
Back in 2005 the then owner had the a/c system changed. Per local code the main power line from my outside panel to the inside breaker panel, they replaced the power cable. I found a very large silver covered power cable up in the attic. It’s about 3.5” or more in diameter. So I’m pretty sure it’s either CCA or aluminum wire. Sucks
If it is either of these, I have a friend who has some very large pure copper cable that I can change it to. I don’t like cca or aluminum wire
I’m not to worried about the copper ends getting dirty from corrosion as I’m still 30 to 40 minutes from the coast line
So time for more test.
It reads 129 volts. As I tested all the outlets and they read from a low of 115.8 volts and for a high of 118.3 volts. Not good at all
Next I’m going to test all the 220 outlets and see what I get
Next will be to pull the panel cover off and do readings off of each leg and see how much of a loss of power from each breaker to each outlet, fingers crossed that I only have 1 or 2 volt loss at these. Lest will be to test the outside main panel and see what the reading is there. I have found this out
Back in 2005 the then owner had the a/c system changed. Per local code the main power line from my outside panel to the inside breaker panel, they replaced the power cable. I found a very large silver covered power cable up in the attic. It’s about 3.5” or more in diameter. So I’m pretty sure it’s either CCA or aluminum wire. Sucks
If it is either of these, I have a friend who has some very large pure copper cable that I can change it to. I don’t like cca or aluminum wire
I’m not to worried about the copper ends getting dirty from corrosion as I’m still 30 to 40 minutes from the coast line
So time for more test.
A voltage reading with an accurate DVM showing 115-118V is just fine, trust me.
Years ago, 115V/230V was the standard across America, and everything made was built to that standard.
Go look at vintage repair manuals and you'll see what I mean. - they all list 115 or 117V as used for testing, service, and calibration levels.
My home outlets are usually 125-126V, and I wished they'd be lowered to 115V.
Depending on the region and generating plant, voltages vary.
Actually the wiring sounds fine. Load balance seems to be good. The power company should be able to move a tap and raise it three volts. Drop from panel to outlet under full load should be under 6 volts. A clothes iron is a good test load.
I wouldn't worry about the house feed being aluminum as long as the terminations are in good shape.
I would see if you can retrofit arc interrupting breakers. They don't just protect you they will trip on loose connections, based on my experience.
I wouldn't worry about the house feed being aluminum as long as the terminations are in good shape.
I would see if you can retrofit arc interrupting breakers. They don't just protect you they will trip on loose connections, based on my experience.
Cable over 60 Amps is *normally* Aluminum. The economics are compelling.
Lugs for >60A devices are invariably Al-compatible, *IF* the connection is done by a Qualified technician using proper ointment and tools. These almost never give trouble.
Al in small circuits on cheap devices IS a terror.
I've never seen 3.5" cable on residential work. How big is your mansion?
A line going from “outside panel to inside panel” will by code have 4 wires in it, and only the grounding conductor os allowed to be undersized. Netutral isn’t. Three big wires makes a big cable. I’ve got 2/0 Al going (underground) from the panel in the house to the sub panel in the shop and it’s BIG. That’s only good enough for 100 amps. If you need 200 (or anything over 100) then you go to 4/0 and that’s easily going to be 3.5 inches.
I went through my home and replaced all the AC outlets with cheap but excellent Pass and Seymour CR15 side mount only AC outlets. I also had dedicated lines run from my main stereo. Simply switching breakers so noise producing appliances are on the opposite leg helps with noise problems. Keep your fingers crossed that your house is not one with aluminum wiring.
None of the likely residential feeder cables are even half of 3.5". 4-wire at 4/0 on three is good for up to 200 Amps and is 1.5" diameter.
500 Amp 750cm triplex is 2.9" diameter in fancy-plastic, and would be much more in old rubber, but that's a BIG house load.
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I can’t believe this has turned into a debate over the size of this cable
I was 10’ away from it. I’m sure I’m wrong about the size
WHO CARES !!!!!! Not me, if this is all you have to say about this post, then leave.
I did not start this post for people to get their pantyhose in a bunch over the size of one cable. It really doesn’t much of a difference if it’s 4/0 2/0 or what ever it is
If it’s that important to some of you guys
I will drop my walking cane and crawl through my attic and put my micrometer on it and get the exact measurement for you
I was 10’ away from it. I’m sure I’m wrong about the size
WHO CARES !!!!!! Not me, if this is all you have to say about this post, then leave.
I did not start this post for people to get their pantyhose in a bunch over the size of one cable. It really doesn’t much of a difference if it’s 4/0 2/0 or what ever it is
If it’s that important to some of you guys
I will drop my walking cane and crawl through my attic and put my micrometer on it and get the exact measurement for you
BTY to avoid light switch popping put a line rated capacitor across the switch. A class X2 capacitor rated for .01 uF at at least 250 VAC should fix the problem.
If a class X capacitor fails it is likely to short and the light will stay on indicating a problem. If a class Y capacitor fails it usually opens making it slightly harder to find in this case.
If a class X capacitor fails it is likely to short and the light will stay on indicating a problem. If a class Y capacitor fails it usually opens making it slightly harder to find in this case.
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I’ll look this up on how to and where to get the parts. Is this for just the switch that is making the pop sound or on all of them?
I apologize for the side-track. Being an occasional cane-user myself, I sure don't want you crawling in an attic for an irrelevancy.
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