Dim Bulb Tester

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Hi KevinKr, thanks for your message. I can confirm it's an SE amp. Apologies if this post is in the wrong place.

The light on the chassis lights and the fuse has not blown. I don't know if this tells us anything? How would I test the diodes?

Thanks again.

It tells us the power transformer might be OK, and the diodes too as long as the ballast lamp (your dim bulb) does not light.

Measure the B+ next. If you have not done so please read the following thread here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/30172-safety-practices-general-ultra-high-voltage.html

Optional, but likely helpful:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/38278-line-tube-learning-newbies.html
 
It tells us the power transformer might be OK, and the diodes too as long as the ballast lamp (your dim bulb) does not light.

Measure the B+ next. If you have not done so please read the following thread here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/30172-safety-practices-general-ultra-high-voltage.html

Optional, but likely helpful:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/38278-line-tube-learning-newbies.html

Thank you Kevinkr, that's super useful. Can I ask what the B+ is? Really sorry if this is a stupid question.

Thanks for the links too.
 
^^^^^^ agree and add: realold tube stuff was not "consumer" stuff (yet) but "Lab" level stuff, only experimenters delved in Electronics.

And standard power source was *batteries* .
As a rough guide, tnhey were split in 3 groups:

220px-Triode_Circuit.svg.png


"A" meant filament batteries, popular values were 1.5V (carbon cell batteries) , 2V (single lead acid cell) and 6.3V (3 cell lead acid cells, and the typical old car battery (think Ford T) so early tubed tended to use one of those values for filaments.

"B" meant high voltage batteries, a very popular value was 90V .
Not too practical trying to reach hundreds of volts, of course, although you could hook a couple 90V batteries in series, if needed.
Of course, stuff could easily be powered with 110VDC mains, which were very popular back in the day.
The +B name just carried on.

"C" were bias batteries . Usually with some funny chemistry which kept them stable for years (even decades) , as long as you did not pull any current out of them (mot even 1 uA) .

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or you could use a tapped 9V battery (which of course is made out of 6 x 1.5V batteries in series):
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