Did someone use Peerless/Tymphany PLS-P830985 ?
Hi everybody.
This is my first real project and it didn't gone well.
I purchased 2 Peerless PLS-P830985, 2.5 inch,
and made boxes (plywood, 12mm) with 1.6 liter inner volume.
Speakers mounted from inside.
I haven't made a port and sealed them properly yet, as I'm waiting for some router bits.
But I have just assembled the thing, and it sounds like ... crap.
Ok no bass - that's predictable. But the sound in the middle is somehow not "opened" and the heights are the worst. Especially in dancing music the beat with "ts" and "ch" almost hurt the ears. And it looks like these drivers play these sounds "ts" and "ch" even if they are not in the music.
I first tried them with D-class amp (cheap amp from aliexpress, works from usb, 2*3 Watt, I don't recommend it either). Then with my good-old Rotel RA-935BX and compared against B&W 602.5.
Again, no comparison of low frequencies, but the rest also just sucks.
The worst is that the sound is very unpleasant for the ear.
Some small multimedia from Microlab/Sven/Edifier for comparable price would be waaay better.
I'd like to hear other experiences with these speakers. Am I doing something wrong?
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Hi everybody.
This is my first real project and it didn't gone well.
I purchased 2 Peerless PLS-P830985, 2.5 inch,
and made boxes (plywood, 12mm) with 1.6 liter inner volume.
Speakers mounted from inside.
I haven't made a port and sealed them properly yet, as I'm waiting for some router bits.
But I have just assembled the thing, and it sounds like ... crap.
Ok no bass - that's predictable. But the sound in the middle is somehow not "opened" and the heights are the worst. Especially in dancing music the beat with "ts" and "ch" almost hurt the ears. And it looks like these drivers play these sounds "ts" and "ch" even if they are not in the music.
I first tried them with D-class amp (cheap amp from aliexpress, works from usb, 2*3 Watt, I don't recommend it either). Then with my good-old Rotel RA-935BX and compared against B&W 602.5.
Again, no comparison of low frequencies, but the rest also just sucks.
The worst is that the sound is very unpleasant for the ear.
Some small multimedia from Microlab/Sven/Edifier for comparable price would be waaay better.
I'd like to hear other experiences with these speakers. Am I doing something wrong?
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It's but a distant memory, but I did test a close relative, the P830983 Nd magnet, aluminum cone driver in Round 3 of my subjective blind test.
Here is frequency response of all drivers tested in that round and the 830985 is the Green curve labeled "D". The Visaton B80 was the clear winner in this round, but the P830983 actually came in second - so it cannot be called a bad drier. Looking at the curve it is quite flat - typical of well-received likeable drivers. There may be some ringing or "tizzzz" typical of aluminum cone drivers except for SB65WBAC25-4 and FR58EX don't have issues due to good damping of membrane. Note that these 2.5in full range drivers cannot produce bass so best used with a woofer in a FAST as done here. Results of Poll on Post #176.
Value added analysis by Byrtt:
Here is measured impulse response of P830983, notice the ringing - but overall, not a bad response.
Thread is here:
A Subjective Blind Comparison of 2in to 4in drivers - Round 3
Drivers tested in round 3:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...on-2in-4in-drivers-round-3-round-3-lineup.png
In the thread you can listen to controlled sound recordings to compare with other drivers. In general I would say that these are not bad.
So why do they sound bad in your box?
Recesssing them is not good. That lip causes an interference dip in the signal and may make it sound like it has a cup over it. MDF is "dead" and perhaps you may need to utiliE the back wave to get some liveliness. Try open baffle. Add a high pass at 500Hz or so and use a woofer below. Those things should help. But measuring with a mic and REW to ensure proper implementation ration can be crucial.
If using them sealed, make sure you add lots of stuffing to absorb back wave. Don't bother porting them you won't get any significant bass.
Here is frequency response of all drivers tested in that round and the 830985 is the Green curve labeled "D". The Visaton B80 was the clear winner in this round, but the P830983 actually came in second - so it cannot be called a bad drier. Looking at the curve it is quite flat - typical of well-received likeable drivers. There may be some ringing or "tizzzz" typical of aluminum cone drivers except for SB65WBAC25-4 and FR58EX don't have issues due to good damping of membrane. Note that these 2.5in full range drivers cannot produce bass so best used with a woofer in a FAST as done here. Results of Poll on Post #176.
Value added analysis by Byrtt:
Here is measured impulse response of P830983, notice the ringing - but overall, not a bad response.
Thread is here:
A Subjective Blind Comparison of 2in to 4in drivers - Round 3
Drivers tested in round 3:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/atta...on-2in-4in-drivers-round-3-round-3-lineup.png
In the thread you can listen to controlled sound recordings to compare with other drivers. In general I would say that these are not bad.
So why do they sound bad in your box?
Recesssing them is not good. That lip causes an interference dip in the signal and may make it sound like it has a cup over it. MDF is "dead" and perhaps you may need to utiliE the back wave to get some liveliness. Try open baffle. Add a high pass at 500Hz or so and use a woofer below. Those things should help. But measuring with a mic and REW to ensure proper implementation ration can be crucial.
If using them sealed, make sure you add lots of stuffing to absorb back wave. Don't bother porting them you won't get any significant bass.
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Thanks a lot!
I also was suspicious about back wave and recessing ( but cutting them into a front side would be too complicated).
Ports - I will try it anyway.
The whole idea was about making small laptop speakers. I was aiming to make it same or better than Bose Companion 20.
I also was suspicious about back wave and recessing ( but cutting them into a front side would be too complicated).
Ports - I will try it anyway.
The whole idea was about making small laptop speakers. I was aiming to make it same or better than Bose Companion 20.
Did you make anything of these drivers? I have them, too.Very detailed in midrange and harsh in higher frequency range. I put one in a cardboard box sealed and played with it using an equalizer.I have a love-hate relationship with them: harsh highs, very good midrange, no bass.They are very good with classical music, jazz and voices imho.Cutting the highs at 10khz and adding a smooth tweeter seems a good option to me.
Yep
So, the story goes:
1) I covered the box with acoustic pyramid foam and the sound became much much better!
2) To add some (placebo) bass I added ports to the boxes, 20 mm diameter inside (some water pipes), the length was cut by "taste". I took the length from the program as a reference, and did several pieces of pipe with lengthes +5mm, 0mm, -3mm, -5mm... I also downloaded a file with a range of consecutive frequencies 20, 25, 30...150 hz and played it.
So I've chosen one of the pipes, although there is no big difference.
My problem now is the amp. I want one that uses USB port for power supply.
I bought some cheapo amp from AliExplress but it either not loud enough, or it is loud but produces ugly digital background noise when no music is played.
I actually like the sound! I had them standing next to B&W DM602.5 S3 right at my computer table, and for not bass saturated music (guitar, piano), I actually like my selfmades more than B&W.
My plan is to redo the speakers and add a small 3 or 4 inch bass driver, like
Tang Band W3-1876S or Tang Band W3-1876S
So, the story goes:
1) I covered the box with acoustic pyramid foam and the sound became much much better!
2) To add some (placebo) bass I added ports to the boxes, 20 mm diameter inside (some water pipes), the length was cut by "taste". I took the length from the program as a reference, and did several pieces of pipe with lengthes +5mm, 0mm, -3mm, -5mm... I also downloaded a file with a range of consecutive frequencies 20, 25, 30...150 hz and played it.
So I've chosen one of the pipes, although there is no big difference.
My problem now is the amp. I want one that uses USB port for power supply.
I bought some cheapo amp from AliExplress but it either not loud enough, or it is loud but produces ugly digital background noise when no music is played.
I actually like the sound! I had them standing next to B&W DM602.5 S3 right at my computer table, and for not bass saturated music (guitar, piano), I actually like my selfmades more than B&W.
My plan is to redo the speakers and add a small 3 or 4 inch bass driver, like
Tang Band W3-1876S or Tang Band W3-1876S
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There are some good reviews on ebay for this amp which works with 5v:2.1 Dual Channel 5V 20W 3D Surround Digital Stereo Class D AMP Board Amplifier
You are right when you say placebo bass: they are unable to deliver it, but that midrange sounds beautiful to me
You are right when you say placebo bass: they are unable to deliver it, but that midrange sounds beautiful to me
PLS-P830985 is great driver.
PLS-P830985 sounds at YouTube.
PEERLESS PLS-P830985を超廉価システムで聴く[1]～Andre Previn / 'S Wonderful - YouTube
Enclosure for PLS-P830985.
PLS-P830985 sounds at YouTube.
PEERLESS PLS-P830985を超廉価システムで聴く[1]～Andre Previn / 'S Wonderful - YouTube
Enclosure for PLS-P830985.
Dear soundaddict,
In music sources, sound pressure above 10 kHz is so low.
I have not dealt with any of this.
No sound-absorbing materials are used.
In music sources, sound pressure above 10 kHz is so low.
I have not dealt with any of this.
No sound-absorbing materials are used.
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so the general consensus is these speakers suck? i have a pair, was going to put in a sealed box and do a fast crossover with a W130 x2 woofer @ 200hz and heard that they had great off axis response, but after reading the above im not sure how i should approach this? I also read that they dont need a tweeter.
Yeah I did, just forgot about it, it would appear.
I'm using them rear mounted into a 3d printed project with flared ends but a bit concerned now re cup comment..
Sorry just noticed you mentioned a 830983, when I'm looking at the 830985 as OP has in the title..I might be asking the wrong question I'm the wrong post
I'm using them rear mounted into a 3d printed project with flared ends but a bit concerned now re cup comment..
Sorry just noticed you mentioned a 830983, when I'm looking at the 830985 as OP has in the title..I might be asking the wrong question I'm the wrong post
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