Hi friends!
I rushed through the build of a bugle 2 phono pre.
In the hurry, I oversaw the sockets for the opamps (as recommended by Jim Hagerman) and soldered them directly onto the PCB—very carefully though (as quick as possible, soldering just one leg of each of the three opamps (leg 1 - leg 1 - leg 1; leg 2 - leg 2 - leg 2; etc.) to avoid heating them up too hard...
are there any chances I haven't fried them, or are they most definitely ruined?
thanks!
david
I rushed through the build of a bugle 2 phono pre.
In the hurry, I oversaw the sockets for the opamps (as recommended by Jim Hagerman) and soldered them directly onto the PCB—very carefully though (as quick as possible, soldering just one leg of each of the three opamps (leg 1 - leg 1 - leg 1; leg 2 - leg 2 - leg 2; etc.) to avoid heating them up too hard...
are there any chances I haven't fried them, or are they most definitely ruined?
thanks!
david
You rushed building it, yet you did not power it and listen to it?
I would not be able to wait. I build few bugle kits, they sound ok.
The sockets are there only to allow swapping the opamps. Folks like to experiment, opamps are cheap and each sound different.
You should be good. I have soldered and unsoldered opamps in the past, they still work.
I would not be able to wait. I build few bugle kits, they sound ok.
The sockets are there only to allow swapping the opamps. Folks like to experiment, opamps are cheap and each sound different.
You should be good. I have soldered and unsoldered opamps in the past, they still work.
Silicon semiconductors don't fail from soldering overheating in my experience ever. They handle well beyond 200C for short periods if not powered up, which is why oven-based surface mount soldering can work.
It was the original germanium transistors that were very sensitive to overheat. LED indicators are easy to damage as the leads melt the plastic and can then move and pull off the bondwires. To be transparent the plastic cannot be glass- or ceramic-filled, so its not as thermally stable as standard packages.
For reliable soldering a temperature-controlled soldering iron is essential - too cold and you take too long, too hot and things get burned.
It was the original germanium transistors that were very sensitive to overheat. LED indicators are easy to damage as the leads melt the plastic and can then move and pull off the bondwires. To be transparent the plastic cannot be glass- or ceramic-filled, so its not as thermally stable as standard packages.
For reliable soldering a temperature-controlled soldering iron is essential - too cold and you take too long, too hot and things get burned.
If I had the time to finish it, I'd had.
Wow, they sound … OK ? Most here are quite fond of. Which would better it (without being nearlyimpossible to build/get parts etc.) in your opinion? (I'm drooling on 3 others actually…)
Since the opamps are welded, I won't ask for what alternatives to play with
I got the temperature in the upper range, but not excessively hot. Solder melts quite fast, but it takes a second or three to get a fine joint...
No, (not yet)
Pearl2 is one of the three I constantly have to restrain myself of starting to buy stuff of. (must finish the other projects first)...
Salas' simplistic NJFET RIAA is another, and the high octane the third in the row.
(Not to speak about tube-stuff, planned to get done in my next life
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