I got a Philips cd 303 with noisy outputs, so I replaced all the caps on the power supply and laser board, repaired broken soldier joints... And it worked fine.
Then I decided to change dac power supply caps, but when I was connecting dac board I misplaced two 3 cable connectors, the data and power supply I think.
Now only drawer works and mab8410p chip is getting really hot. I tried putting a chip from a cd 304, which is a little different, and with it it spins the disc but won't read, display doesn't work... but the chip is staying cool.
So, did I fry the mab8410p? Are there any replacements avalible?
Any help would be greatly appeciated.
Then I decided to change dac power supply caps, but when I was connecting dac board I misplaced two 3 cable connectors, the data and power supply I think.
Now only drawer works and mab8410p chip is getting really hot. I tried putting a chip from a cd 304, which is a little different, and with it it spins the disc but won't read, display doesn't work... but the chip is staying cool.
So, did I fry the mab8410p? Are there any replacements avalible?
Any help would be greatly appeciated.
There is too much information missing to be able to make a beginning diagnosis.
Already, what version of the 303 is it? (label behind)
Already, what version of the 303 is it? (label behind)
Okay, I was trying to keep it short. It's 303/00, with the sony chipset board, if that's what you mean.
you have to start from the base, namely, the power supply/regulation card, check the presence of all the right voltages in the right place (card disconnected) and then, when you are sure that everything is fine, you can ( using the SM) check all the pcb values by pcb, finishing with the DAC part.
I checked the power supply voltages, they are okay. I don't think I should leave it on with the mab8410p chip running scorching hot.
You don't think that the chip that I supplied voltages instead of data, and is now running very hot is not the clear indication of problem? Maybe I could remove it and then check voltages, but that would only tell me if something else got damaged by my mistake? As I understand this is logic chip that has programs written in it, so it's not easily replaceable, though I've seen some advertised for this player.
Thanks.
You don't think that the chip that I supplied voltages instead of data, and is now running very hot is not the clear indication of problem? Maybe I could remove it and then check voltages, but that would only tell me if something else got damaged by my mistake? As I understand this is logic chip that has programs written in it, so it's not easily replaceable, though I've seen some advertised for this player.
Thanks.
Mab 8410 has different softs,soft number is on the case.You need the same chip.cd304 has different soft and its not right.
@kaulagalvis Yeah, I've read that somewhere. It is B007C, and I've found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/294024131613
but I think it's too expensive for something I'm not sure will work.
So I did murder it. Bummer.
One of those connectors is white and the other one is black, but I was dumb enough to go by the way wires are curved (which can change)
I think I liked the sound more than the marantz cd 54. It was reading discs marantz would skip.
but I think it's too expensive for something I'm not sure will work.
So I did murder it. Bummer.
One of those connectors is white and the other one is black, but I was dumb enough to go by the way wires are curved (which can change)
I think I liked the sound more than the marantz cd 54. It was reading discs marantz would skip.
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I agree.
Before giving up (or spending money without any certainty) I suggest you try sending an e-mail to Bram Jacobse kindly asking him for advice, he's one who knows a bit about vintage Philips/Marantz CD Players. 😉
Even if this thread is not "mine" and (sorry if) I didn't remember about your membership, I'm really so very pleased to meet you! 🙂
After replacing the chip and (this time) carefully connecting the cables the cd player works! And sounds wonderful.
Thank you all for help.
Any idea how to improve it? I've recapped the power supply with larger capacitance, and changed digital power supply caps to 150mf sanyo oscons, I have some russian paper in oil caps, so I was thinking of stealing the signal after first half of the opamps? It seemed to clear things up a bit in marantz...
Also the motor is a bit noisy, even after lubrication, this is an easyy fix with cdm1 but has anyone opened a brushed motor on cdm0? I guess grinding the tabs that hold the back plate would open it..
Thank you all for help.
Any idea how to improve it? I've recapped the power supply with larger capacitance, and changed digital power supply caps to 150mf sanyo oscons, I have some russian paper in oil caps, so I was thinking of stealing the signal after first half of the opamps? It seemed to clear things up a bit in marantz...
Also the motor is a bit noisy, even after lubrication, this is an easyy fix with cdm1 but has anyone opened a brushed motor on cdm0? I guess grinding the tabs that hold the back plate would open it..
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'Morning Markom, I think I got in the same trouble as you, only I managed to kill the cpu on the servo bord mab8440p....
In the last picture you posted I see you did not use a actual chip, but something else, can you give more information about it? I would really appreciated.
I managed to buy a set of servo/decoding boards from the bay, but they are not really the same and they did not arrive yet. and for 160€.... I hope they work but I'm doubtful...
Thank you in advance, Vlad.
In the last picture you posted I see you did not use a actual chip, but something else, can you give more information about it? I would really appreciated.
I managed to buy a set of servo/decoding boards from the bay, but they are not really the same and they did not arrive yet. and for 160€.... I hope they work but I'm doubtful...
Thank you in advance, Vlad.