Hello
I got two of these amps, one had blown power supply transistors, the other has also blown output transistors. Amp uses HIP4080 chip and output transistors are P40NF10. Hifonics amps use IRF3710's and IRF3415's as outputs and those I have at hand. P40NF10 I would have to order.
Is it good idea to test with IRF3710's or should I order the originals to be safe.
Maybe these P40NF10's are good replacement to other HIP4080 amps which are picky about outputs?
I got two of these amps, one had blown power supply transistors, the other has also blown output transistors. Amp uses HIP4080 chip and output transistors are P40NF10. Hifonics amps use IRF3710's and IRF3415's as outputs and those I have at hand. P40NF10 I would have to order.
Is it good idea to test with IRF3710's or should I order the originals to be safe.
Maybe these P40NF10's are good replacement to other HIP4080 amps which are picky about outputs?
I still did not have the time to start with this amplifier but I have another Diamond Audio D3.1000.1 at hand. It came with blown PS FETs (IRFZ44N), some of the gate resistors were toast and board near the drivers for FETs showed signs that they have been running hot.
I cleaned everything up, replaced gate resistors (47 ohm), replaced all PS FETs, most of them were blown to pieces, replaced drivers with BD139 and BD140. Checked if it would work with my power supply. It did, clean audio, no problems. Then I took it to my car, it played music but also started smoking - one of the new IRFZ44N's failed. I suspected that maybe leg of the transistor was touching clip. I cut the failed transistor out, others were not shorted. I ran out of IRFZ44N's so I tried the amp without this one FET, again on the bench it worked, as soon as I hooked it up in my car it started smoking again. IRFZ44N from another bank failed.
I removed the failed FET, checked other FETs and gate resistors, everything seemed to be in order. Measured current draw: at first amp draws 0,55A when idling, shortly after the relay engages current draw slowly starts to rise and rises up to 1,60A and stays there.
PS FETs were not clamped to heatsink, they did not get hot, audio sections transistors did not get hot.
Picture of gate signal is attached (sorry for the poor quality), scope setting 5V/5us.
Does the signal look OK?
I cleaned everything up, replaced gate resistors (47 ohm), replaced all PS FETs, most of them were blown to pieces, replaced drivers with BD139 and BD140. Checked if it would work with my power supply. It did, clean audio, no problems. Then I took it to my car, it played music but also started smoking - one of the new IRFZ44N's failed. I suspected that maybe leg of the transistor was touching clip. I cut the failed transistor out, others were not shorted. I ran out of IRFZ44N's so I tried the amp without this one FET, again on the bench it worked, as soon as I hooked it up in my car it started smoking again. IRFZ44N from another bank failed.
I removed the failed FET, checked other FETs and gate resistors, everything seemed to be in order. Measured current draw: at first amp draws 0,55A when idling, shortly after the relay engages current draw slowly starts to rise and rises up to 1,60A and stays there.
PS FETs were not clamped to heatsink, they did not get hot, audio sections transistors did not get hot.
Picture of gate signal is attached (sorry for the poor quality), scope setting 5V/5us.
Does the signal look OK?
Attachments
Black probe on GND terminal, red probe on RCA shield: 0,004V
Twisted the transformer as hard as I could, voltage was the same, current draw did not increase either.
I may have had a ground issue in the car. Yesterday the ground cable fell out of the cable connector. This time I soldered the cable on the connector, not just crimp it together.
Will try again in car when I get some new IRFZ44N's.
Twisted the transformer as hard as I could, voltage was the same, current draw did not increase either.
I may have had a ground issue in the car. Yesterday the ground cable fell out of the cable connector. This time I soldered the cable on the connector, not just crimp it together.
Will try again in car when I get some new IRFZ44N's.
Replaced the two IRFZ44Ns, their gate resistors, tried the amp out with power supply. Current draw 1,6A, amp was out of the sink and no component got hot.
Installed it in the car and for now it works.
About the other Diamond Audio D3.1000.1 which had blown outputs. Ordered the original replacements (P40NF10), replaced all of them, borrowed HIP4080 from working amp but did not get the amp run properly. It drew 4,5A of current when idling. Outputs got hot quickly, even when clamped to heatsink.
Replaced the brand new P40NF10s with IRF3710Z-s, current draw dropped to 1,2A outputs stay cool without the sink and amp produces audio.
Installed it in the car and for now it works.
About the other Diamond Audio D3.1000.1 which had blown outputs. Ordered the original replacements (P40NF10), replaced all of them, borrowed HIP4080 from working amp but did not get the amp run properly. It drew 4,5A of current when idling. Outputs got hot quickly, even when clamped to heatsink.
Replaced the brand new P40NF10s with IRF3710Z-s, current draw dropped to 1,2A outputs stay cool without the sink and amp produces audio.
Still I do not know what you are asking.
Seems like you are asking what is the driver for outputs. This amp uses HIP4080, but it has 20 pins, not 13. Your name seems Estonian. You can write the question in Estonian as long as you add translation to english. Also you can contact me via personal message or email: mote (at) planet.ee
Seems like you are asking what is the driver for outputs. This amp uses HIP4080, but it has 20 pins, not 13. Your name seems Estonian. You can write the question in Estonian as long as you add translation to english. Also you can contact me via personal message or email: mote (at) planet.ee
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.