Determing Xmax for vintage woofer

Xmax is not needed for sizing up a sealed box.

However, it will help determine the minimum port diameter for a vented box. If the port diameter is too small, you may get unwanted noises caused by air flow being restricted. (some programs calculate a Reynolds number to help to quantify that). Port placement in a box should provide adequate clearance between the open (internal) end of the port and any boundaries (e.g. drivers, crossover components, or inside walls). Also, the volume displaced by the vent is sometimes significant enough to account for when determining net internal volume, Vb.

The ratio of Fs/Qes is commonly used to determine if the driver is suitable for closed or vented. If the ratio is around 50, closed box usually works well. If ratio is closer to 100 then vented usually works best. Ratio of 60 to 80 may be suitable for either.

If the box will be sealed, don't worry about Xmax.

If you have a modeling program that needs Xmax, you could guess a large value, like maybe 8 mm, or 6 mm. Often, a 15" woofer has 4 or 5 mm Xmax. A 6" diameter vent is probably a typical (conservative) size for a 15". You might get by with a pair of 4" or even a pair of flared 3" ports.
Thank you for your reply.

The AT-15s were vented with a 6" diameter port. I can probably find someone who can and will tell me the length. I have the dimensions for the original enclosures, but wanted to play with some modeling programs to compare those results with the original boxes. The OCD in me likes to start with the basics.
 
It the OCD itch becomes unbearable, then I will use the method described by JMFahey. I am comfortable removing and replacing the dust cap.

The AES2-1984 standard defines Xmax as "the voice-coil one way peak displacement at which the "linearity" of the motor deviates by 10%. Linearity may be measured by percent distortion of the
input current or by percent deviation of displacement versus input current. Manufacturer shall state method used. The measurement shall be made in free air at Fs."

When you drive the speaker with a sine wave at Fs, and see a harmonic reach -20dB below the Fs frequency on an RTA, the speaker has reached Xmax.
Persistence of vision makes it easy to see and measure the peak to peak excursion with a ruler and divide by 2.

Simpler, but less telling of actual linearity:

Xmax = (Voice Coil Length - Height of the Magnetic Gap) / 2
VC-1-300x186.png

The top plate is the "Height of the Magnetic Gap", easy to measure externally.
The voice coil is 2" in diameter (60mm) looks like the voice coil length is about 21.6 mm:

AT 15.png

If the driver's top plate is 10mm, Xmax would be around 5.8mm.

Considering the magnetic gap extends a bit beyond the top plate, some manufacturers may use more lenient mechanical formulas resulting in as much as 40% more Xmax.
These are common:
(Hvc - Hg) / 2 + Hg / 3
(Hvc - Hg) / 2 + Hg / 4


Anyway regardless of your OCD itch, no need to cut up your woofer for an ambiguous parameter you can measure in a variety of ways 😉

Art
 
Last edited:
After yah sim a few drivers which are roughly the same
type of design
Overall specs and magnet size.
I would just expect the same old 3 to 4mm
And my OCD wouldn't let that bother me.
Because its feasible enough this type of woofer.
Higher thermal rating, than linear travel
at 10% distortion. Same old 20 to 30 watts linear/xmax, For home
environment dont need a port much larger than that to keep
velocity at a decent rating. Just enough voltage for 30 watts
and size the ports to give yah around 15 to 20 m/s
Say have seen it many times before with winisd
they apply max power at the thermal rated/ manufacture rating.
When linear travel is likely 20 to 30 watts with 3 to 4mm
drivers of this type.
So many assume you need a huge port applying to much power
in sim. When port velocity at 30 ish watts doesn't need too big
of a port. Which helps keep length down, so yah dont hit the rear
of the enclosure. Round tubes with flare can easily be used.

Rear magnet plate seems to have a little bump to
it. So xlim might be pretty decent. Basically just bump
the rear plate. So its less likely for the coil to smack it
on big transients when your playing at high levels.

Should be fun project, bass with Vegas was never a problem.
Usually just the tweets were little harsh. So just a basic modern
silk dome for 30 bucks sound way way better than some of the mylar
or piezos in some vegas. easy upgrade
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Wizard509