hi all,
I'm completely new to this stuff. Just decided to construct my own sub using an old driver. As title really, I'm hoping I can make a small ht sub from it. But I cannot find any info about it. Any help would be appreciated even if it isn't possible. Thanks
Mic
I'm completely new to this stuff. Just decided to construct my own sub using an old driver. As title really, I'm hoping I can make a small ht sub from it. But I cannot find any info about it. Any help would be appreciated even if it isn't possible. Thanks
Mic
What you saying?
http://www.dvdtimes.co.uk/content.php?contentid=5530
Do you have an old driver and you wanna make a sub?
Or, am I barking up the wrong tree? Do you mean you have a driver from the above sub, and you like to make a sub with it?
Mike🙂
http://www.dvdtimes.co.uk/content.php?contentid=5530
Do you have an old driver and you wanna make a sub?
Or, am I barking up the wrong tree? Do you mean you have a driver from the above sub, and you like to make a sub with it?
Mike🙂
hi Mike,
Thanks for the response. You are correct, I have the driver from the sub you link to. I was hoping to make a sub using the driver as I'm a bit strapped for cash. I need some guidance about getting started.
I hope this makes sense.
Mic
Thanks for the response. You are correct, I have the driver from the sub you link to. I was hoping to make a sub using the driver as I'm a bit strapped for cash. I need some guidance about getting started.
I hope this makes sense.
Mic
Properly, you need to know the Thiele-Small parameters for the driver if you want to design a box for it. That can be done using a computer with sound card and software like Speaker Workshop, or using basic electronics test equipment (signal generator, AC voltmeter, etc). There's also a gizmo called the Woofer Tester that makes it easier; it'd be best if you can find someone locally who's already set up to do that if this is over your head. But, it really isn't worth putting much effort into a driver like this; you'd be better off to just buy a new (or used) driver that is a known quantity.
But if you've got more time than money, you could start by making a box the same dimensions as the original sub: 350x245x400mm It was probably ported, so add a port around 20 to 30 mm diameter, of adjustable length, and see what length sounds right.
But if you've got more time than money, you could start by making a box the same dimensions as the original sub: 350x245x400mm It was probably ported, so add a port around 20 to 30 mm diameter, of adjustable length, and see what length sounds right.
Hi m1c
This is simple, but good.
http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html
Then in detail
http://sound.westhost.com/tsp.htm
This member, helped me big time. Goes by the name, richie00boy
http://www.readresearch.co.uk/html/utilities.htm
reaudio's slot box was good for car use, loud but quality was a bit boomy. To measure T/S parameters of a driver, requires you to measure with accuracy. richie00boy's technique, checks whether you measured right or not.
http://www.thielesmall.com/
Although they supposed to have 4000 drivers listed, I didn't find mine. I ended up with no box 😀 http://home.comcast.net/~infinitelybaffled/index.html
http://ibsubwoofers.proboards51.com/index.cgi
You may need to log in, but interesting.
Mike
This is simple, but good.
http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html
Then in detail
http://sound.westhost.com/tsp.htm
This member, helped me big time. Goes by the name, richie00boy
http://www.readresearch.co.uk/html/utilities.htm
reaudio's slot box was good for car use, loud but quality was a bit boomy. To measure T/S parameters of a driver, requires you to measure with accuracy. richie00boy's technique, checks whether you measured right or not.
http://www.thielesmall.com/
Although they supposed to have 4000 drivers listed, I didn't find mine. I ended up with no box 😀 http://home.comcast.net/~infinitelybaffled/index.html
http://ibsubwoofers.proboards51.com/index.cgi
You may need to log in, but interesting.
Mike
cheers for the advice.
if i was to make a box using the same dimensions as the original design (it was ported), what circuitry would i need?
sorry for being such a noob, only decided to do this a couple of days ago.
thanks again
mic
if i was to make a box using the same dimensions as the original design (it was ported), what circuitry would i need?
sorry for being such a noob, only decided to do this a couple of days ago.
thanks again
mic
Hello m1c
Active is always the best way to go. You need a signal from your source. Simplest, is to come off of one of your speaker outputs on your main amp, step it down with a resistor divider, ( headphone circuit is good here).
http://sound.westhost.com/project100.htm
You then need a low pass filter and a beefy amp to drive your sub. If your main amp has a 'pre out', you can feed your lowpass filter(crossover) with that. Look at Rod's site, its all there.
http://sound.westhost.com/projects-3.htm
Looking at project 09
http://sound.westhost.com/project09.htm
just use the input and lowpass section, he gives a calculator to download, (Windows), which makes life easy. Choose a frequency where your main speakers roll off. ie if you have small bookshelves, maybe cross about 80hz, see how that sounds.
Mike🙂
Active is always the best way to go. You need a signal from your source. Simplest, is to come off of one of your speaker outputs on your main amp, step it down with a resistor divider, ( headphone circuit is good here).
http://sound.westhost.com/project100.htm
You then need a low pass filter and a beefy amp to drive your sub. If your main amp has a 'pre out', you can feed your lowpass filter(crossover) with that. Look at Rod's site, its all there.
http://sound.westhost.com/projects-3.htm
Looking at project 09
http://sound.westhost.com/project09.htm
just use the input and lowpass section, he gives a calculator to download, (Windows), which makes life easy. Choose a frequency where your main speakers roll off. ie if you have small bookshelves, maybe cross about 80hz, see how that sounds.
Mike🙂
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