Dayton have been messing around with their site and the response of the ND25TA has changed and it has a new dip and spike at the top end of the response.
So how about instead of the suggested ND20FB 3/4" driver, because I dont want to have to drill such a precise hole, I use the ND25FA 1", it has a similar response to the ND20FB and will be easier to mount as I already have a bag of nice 4mm hex bolts?
So how about instead of the suggested ND20FB 3/4" driver, because I dont want to have to drill such a precise hole, I use the ND25FA 1", it has a similar response to the ND20FB and will be easier to mount as I already have a bag of nice 4mm hex bolts?
You might find the quickest thing to do is import an existing AL200 design with a suitable cabinet into the "projekte" folder and adjust it. The Visaton data includes the SEO, and it won't be much different for any other similar type of drivers.
boxsim-db.de | Boxsim Projektdatenbank
Hi,
This thread is getting extremely dull. Anyone note they are all
intended to be wall mounted without any description of if that
is in wall, or the intended cabinets for on wall mounting. No
description of any centre limitations in any format and no idea
that 7 identical speakers is not a good way to approach it at all.
The fixation on 8" bass(mid) units makes no sense.
rgds, sreten.
This thread is getting extremely dull. Anyone note they are all
intended to be wall mounted without any description of if that
is in wall, or the intended cabinets for on wall mounting. No
description of any centre limitations in any format and no idea
that 7 identical speakers is not a good way to approach it at all.
The fixation on 8" bass(mid) units makes no sense.
rgds, sreten.
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Hi,
No. Just start dealing with the practicalities and talk common sense.
Stating your current position would help.
rgds, sreten.
No. Just start dealing with the practicalities and talk common sense.
Stating your current position would help.
rgds, sreten.
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I have trouble talking common sense because I have aspergers.
The sub is an infinite baffle setup with 4x UM18's so the woofers need plenty of grunt to keep up thats why I chose 8's.
After considering a 2 way to save money it turns out this is not easy with an 8" woofer and I dont like the look of paper cones so I'm reverting to a 3 way with the RS225-8, RS52AN-8 and the ND25FA-4.
The sub is an infinite baffle setup with 4x UM18's so the woofers need plenty of grunt to keep up thats why I chose 8's.
After considering a 2 way to save money it turns out this is not easy with an 8" woofer and I dont like the look of paper cones so I'm reverting to a 3 way with the RS225-8, RS52AN-8 and the ND25FA-4.
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A conventional reason for using a 3/4" driver is the better dispersion which you can see in the response of the ND20FB compared to the ND25A. Choosing the tweeter based on possessing a bag of bolts, not being able to drill a hole and it having the label from the Parts Express house brand is somewhat less common.
A lot? Not perhaps a tiny amount that is starting to reveal how much more you need to pick up before being in a position to have a reasonable stab at it?
You might get better feedback if you were a bit clearer about your objectives and constraints. For example, you seem to be only considering Dayton Audio drivers. Is this a requirement? You mentioned British drivers but, apart from a few expensive studio drivers, these are not made available to DIYers.
You bounced between a 3 way and a 2 way I think because of cost? If so, what is a rough target budget?
You seem to want 7 identical speakers but does the centre channel have to fit around a screen?
How loud do the speakers need to play cleanly? This affects the size of the woofer.
You mentioned large subwoofers. Are these distributed or all in one place? What is the clean SPL they can produce and how high can they play. This again affects the woofer sizing.
Are the speakers on wall making high sound quality difficult or in wall making high sound quality more straightforward?
A 2 way is significantly easier than a 3 way but you have to use drivers that will work in this configuration and not ones that won't.
What is putting you off paper cones?
Hi,
You would be even better off with 2 x 6.5" across the front
and 1 x 6.5" for your 4 rears, that should be obvious as fact.
Look at the SDT3.5 for mid impedance compensation, though
if you can arrange a first order series bass to mid crossover
it can mitigate the mids impedance peak.
rgds, sreten.
You would be even better off with 2 x 6.5" across the front
and 1 x 6.5" for your 4 rears, that should be obvious as fact.
Look at the SDT3.5 for mid impedance compensation, though
if you can arrange a first order series bass to mid crossover
it can mitigate the mids impedance peak.
rgds, sreten.
I knew I shouldn't have mentioned the dam bolts, I'm using the ND25FA I dont care what the other one sounds like.
I know my aspergers makes me sound stupid but I understand everything now(dont you dare nit pick at those last few words) and you are in no position to tell me otherwise.
Dayton is a good solid brand and I like the look of them.
I really want to stay below £1000 but I can go a bit higher if needed.
I dont care about MTM's I'll just put the dam speaker below the TV.
The infinite baffle enclosure is under the floor and there will be a UM18 in each corner of the room pointing down into the enclosure I expect they will produce at least 130dBz and I want to cross them at 80Hz, I build subs I know what I'm doing.
The speakers are wall mounted but the sides will be low profile so they dont stand out as much.
Forget about the RS52AN impedance peak I forgot I had the polarity reversed its fine with normal polarity.
Paper cones look cheap I just dont like them.
I know my aspergers makes me sound stupid but I understand everything now(dont you dare nit pick at those last few words) and you are in no position to tell me otherwise.
Dayton is a good solid brand and I like the look of them.
I really want to stay below £1000 but I can go a bit higher if needed.
I dont care about MTM's I'll just put the dam speaker below the TV.
The infinite baffle enclosure is under the floor and there will be a UM18 in each corner of the room pointing down into the enclosure I expect they will produce at least 130dBz and I want to cross them at 80Hz, I build subs I know what I'm doing.
The speakers are wall mounted but the sides will be low profile so they dont stand out as much.
Forget about the RS52AN impedance peak I forgot I had the polarity reversed its fine with normal polarity.
Paper cones look cheap I just dont like them.
Hi,
Have you worked out the front size of low profile speakers
you will need for for your drive units, they are very large.
They also need a lot of wood for the given internal volume.
rgds, sreten.
Have you worked out the front size of low profile speakers
you will need for for your drive units, they are very large.
They also need a lot of wood for the given internal volume.
rgds, sreten.
External dimensions are 38x26x26CM for front and rears and 38x38x18CM for the sides, using 18mm MDF.
Hi,
I'm giving up on this thread, it is going nowhere useful
to anyone else who wants to understand anything.
rgds, sreten.
I'm giving up on this thread, it is going nowhere useful
to anyone else who wants to understand anything.
rgds, sreten.
Forgive me for returning to this dreaded thread but I got an RS28F to test and crossed at 500 Hz via software at about 12dB/octave it plays to ear splitting levels with no audible distortion so whats wrong with crossing it so low?
Probably that I expect it to fry very quickly, I really don't know if it's ferrofluid but that might help power handling:
Dayton Audio RS28F-4 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter 4 Ohm
It also really ought to sound lousy if you cross it much below 3rd order 18dB/octave 1500Hz:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/190663-can-you-have-sparkling-treble-but-without-sibilance-2.html#post2604196
And FWIW, a metal cone 8" bass is a bit of a beast to get behaving civilised:
Dayton Audio RS225-8 8" Reference Woofer
You will need a notched bass crossover to tame the ringing of a metal bass 8" driver.
There's nothing really wrong with crossing a tweeter below its resonance in theory, if you account for the way it behaves, but you'll tax a 1" dome fairly hard doing so. A higher order filter can help unless you take it too low.
As mentioned power handling. Also I would take daytons word on it when they say "usable frequency range 1.2Khz - 20Khz"
The output is already down at least 3db by 500Hz you are going to tend to have a hole in your response. It might sound ok with girl and guitar, but play some dense spectrum music (with a lot of low frequency energy) and I suspect you'll be running to turn the volume down. Also if you compare it to something that is nice and flat through the 100 - 2000Hz region and you will probably hear quite a difference.
Tony.
I'm not using the RS28F in my design but one could always compensate for a bit of falloff with the crossover and from what I have heard it handles down to 500Hz effortlessly and dont forget it has an enormous power rating of 100w thats more than the RS225 which is 80w.
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