Chris - you really helped me out there. Now I understand how to get the AutoEq right. I have to say it does make a very big difference. Attached is my GEQ curve after the AutoEq function has done its stuff.
So if I am following it all correctly this GEQ graph shows the inverse of my room characteristics i.e. it is producing a peak to compensate for a trough. This then gives me my flat response. The compensation at the higher frequencies looks rather extreme - would I be pushing my speakers too far by using this and should I therefore bring it down a notch or two?
Okay so this gets stored in the memory. Then do you just literally Add and Subtract from this curve to add warmth etc. I can't see those functions in the manual so I presume one just moves the sliders and resaves?
Paul - I like the idea of the Parametric adjustment. Could you let me see some sample adjustments you have made i.e. what the parameters look like.
So if I am following it all correctly this GEQ graph shows the inverse of my room characteristics i.e. it is producing a peak to compensate for a trough. This then gives me my flat response. The compensation at the higher frequencies looks rather extreme - would I be pushing my speakers too far by using this and should I therefore bring it down a notch or two?
Okay so this gets stored in the memory. Then do you just literally Add and Subtract from this curve to add warmth etc. I can't see those functions in the manual so I presume one just moves the sliders and resaves?
Paul - I like the idea of the Parametric adjustment. Could you let me see some sample adjustments you have made i.e. what the parameters look like.
Attachments
Looks like its trying to compensate for HF rolloff - do you have a fullrange driver with no tweeter?
I've found that its best not to have too much boost on the top end, I'd pull it back a little.
It should not "push your speakers too hard."
I would use it down to 20 Hz - the bass is where you deal with modes and is one of the main advantages!
If you see a lot of boost down low, you should reduce it. eg. if it is boosting below tuning of vented speakers as you should not normally boost below tuning.
PEQ settings - I set it so that I get -2.5db @ 20 khz and this cut starts around 1.5k - hence the centre frequency is 20k but the Q is very low so it starts cutting as low as 1.5k, so it slopes down gradually from there to 20k
I do the opposite in the bass ie + 2 or 4 db @ 20 Hz sloping down to 0db @ 100 Hz or so
I've found that its best not to have too much boost on the top end, I'd pull it back a little.
It should not "push your speakers too hard."
I would use it down to 20 Hz - the bass is where you deal with modes and is one of the main advantages!
If you see a lot of boost down low, you should reduce it. eg. if it is boosting below tuning of vented speakers as you should not normally boost below tuning.
PEQ settings - I set it so that I get -2.5db @ 20 khz and this cut starts around 1.5k - hence the centre frequency is 20k but the Q is very low so it starts cutting as low as 1.5k, so it slopes down gradually from there to 20k
I do the opposite in the bass ie + 2 or 4 db @ 20 Hz sloping down to 0db @ 100 Hz or so
Bloody hell Paul - you're good! That is exactly what I have. I am using Mirage Omnisats and the bass is provided by a REL Storm subwoofer. The REL outclasses the Mirages I think but I have to have them for aesthetics.
I see that you are into Architecture and Design, so are we, we have a big empty loft space and the girlfriend will not allow highly visible speakers so I have to compromise with the speakers by using satellites (eventually I want to look into building my own speakers which can be up to 2.2 metres high as long as I can fit them flush with a line of cabinets. Haven't seen a design like this yet, though, so still looking).
The REL got through because it looks like a coffee table! Basically I am hoping to make up for some of the deficiencies of this setup by using the Behringer. It seems to be working pretty well at the moment...
Will try your suggestions out and report back. I don't understand any of your last two paragraphs 🙄 so I think I will have to reread a little!
I see that you are into Architecture and Design, so are we, we have a big empty loft space and the girlfriend will not allow highly visible speakers so I have to compromise with the speakers by using satellites (eventually I want to look into building my own speakers which can be up to 2.2 metres high as long as I can fit them flush with a line of cabinets. Haven't seen a design like this yet, though, so still looking).
The REL got through because it looks like a coffee table! Basically I am hoping to make up for some of the deficiencies of this setup by using the Behringer. It seems to be working pretty well at the moment...
Will try your suggestions out and report back. I don't understand any of your last two paragraphs 🙄 so I think I will have to reread a little!
Joesan,
Try these settings for parametric eq if you have the GEQ set to flat
1.
freq = 20 Hz
gain = +2.5db
bw = 2
2.
freq = 20 kHz
gain = -2.5db
bw = 5
Shoot me an email if you like when you are thinking about what to do for mains. I usually have lots of ideas with how to come up with something that works with your room visually.
Perhaps you could look at adding a tweeter on top of the mains to improve the top end.
If you connect the sub via the auxiliary output, you can assign delay to the sub or mains.
Try these settings for parametric eq if you have the GEQ set to flat
1.
freq = 20 Hz
gain = +2.5db
bw = 2
2.
freq = 20 kHz
gain = -2.5db
bw = 5
Shoot me an email if you like when you are thinking about what to do for mains. I usually have lots of ideas with how to come up with something that works with your room visually.
Perhaps you could look at adding a tweeter on top of the mains to improve the top end.
If you connect the sub via the auxiliary output, you can assign delay to the sub or mains.
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