Hello all,
When I power on my Denon DCD-2560, it makes a lot of noise! Seems to be a lot of vibration from the spindle motor.
Does anyone else have any experience diagnosing the spindle motor, bad bearing, lubrication issues?
The motor immediately spins up to high speed with or without a disc. With a disc, the lens goes up and down a few times, then stops. The motor keeps spinning.
No TOC.
Any suggestions are appreciated!
ikonw8
When I power on my Denon DCD-2560, it makes a lot of noise! Seems to be a lot of vibration from the spindle motor.
Does anyone else have any experience diagnosing the spindle motor, bad bearing, lubrication issues?
The motor immediately spins up to high speed with or without a disc. With a disc, the lens goes up and down a few times, then stops. The motor keeps spinning.
No TOC.
Any suggestions are appreciated!
ikonw8
Leaving problems with the electronics aside!
A drawer which does not open or close may be down to a worn belt, gummed up mechanism or stripped gear teeth.
Inability to read the TOC suggests problems like a dirty or damaged objective lens, mechanical problems with sled movement, dirty/defective limiter switch or sensor, physical damage to the ribbon cable supplying the optical pickup and a defective spindle motor.
Worn spindle motor bearings can result in a high pitched whine. Adding a drop of light oil may quieten it down temporarily
A drawer which does not open or close may be down to a worn belt, gummed up mechanism or stripped gear teeth.
Inability to read the TOC suggests problems like a dirty or damaged objective lens, mechanical problems with sled movement, dirty/defective limiter switch or sensor, physical damage to the ribbon cable supplying the optical pickup and a defective spindle motor.
Worn spindle motor bearings can result in a high pitched whine. Adding a drop of light oil may quieten it down temporarily
More troubleshooting.
The spindle motor immediately turns on to high speed.
The sled will return to home position if it is not there already.
The drawer will respond to the button press to open, but pressing again to close - the motor keeps turning the same direction as if to open (not in reverse). Belts are good, cleaned. Problem seems electrical.
The headphone volume motor also moves on power on, to max volume and stays running.
Definitely have a cold solder joint on the base of TR105 (sled drive).
Back at it again tomorrow.
The spindle motor immediately turns on to high speed.
The sled will return to home position if it is not there already.
The drawer will respond to the button press to open, but pressing again to close - the motor keeps turning the same direction as if to open (not in reverse). Belts are good, cleaned. Problem seems electrical.
The headphone volume motor also moves on power on, to max volume and stays running.
Definitely have a cold solder joint on the base of TR105 (sled drive).
Back at it again tomorrow.
Attachments
So many issues points to something like a missing rail. Pick something that's obviously faulty like this volume control and check the supplies to the motor drive amplifier. Look for safety resistors that could be open circuit or high in value and also small 'circuit protectors' (fuses that look like transistors) that could be open.
I reckon you have lost -10V supply....
IC706 is an ICP-N20P (800mA) semiconductor fuse that looks like a two legged transistor ....you could bridge it with fuse wire if you need to.....500mA for starters.
The SM is available from HiFi Engine.
Dan.
good to hear its fixed.Update. Replaced IC706 and fixed the cold solder joints. The other fuse IC707 promptly blew, and it was working before. Age maybe?
With the IC706 fixed and IC707 blown, no spindle motor, tray motor or headphone volume motor movement.
I have +5V, -5V, +12, -12v at the regulators. IC705 (bridge rectifier) is providing +14 and -13v up to the fuses.
Resistance to ground after the fuse is low - about 14 Ohms.
Need to look for shorts before blowing any more fuses.
With the IC706 fixed and IC707 blown, no spindle motor, tray motor or headphone volume motor movement.
I have +5V, -5V, +12, -12v at the regulators. IC705 (bridge rectifier) is providing +14 and -13v up to the fuses.
Resistance to ground after the fuse is low - about 14 Ohms.
Need to look for shorts before blowing any more fuses.
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TR105 and TR106 are the Sled Drive transistors. Both are nearly shorted (1-2 Ohms) from Emitter to Collector. Ordering replacements!
TR106 took out the -10v fuse, but TR105 had the cold solder joint - which saved the fuse - until I "fixed" the cold solder joint. Which promptly blew the fuse to the +10v rail. LOL, lesson learned!
Not sure if the Opamp 15218L IC900 (SIP package) is also cooked?
TR106 took out the -10v fuse, but TR105 had the cold solder joint - which saved the fuse - until I "fixed" the cold solder joint. Which promptly blew the fuse to the +10v rail. LOL, lesson learned!
Not sure if the Opamp 15218L IC900 (SIP package) is also cooked?
Today I replaced TR105 and TR106 with KSA2690 and KSA1220, in a TO-126 package. Raised them off the board a bit for better heat dissipation. Also replaced both IC style fuses on the 10v and -10v rail on the Power Supply board.
Everything is back to normal and the DCD-2560 is working perfectly!
Thank you everyone for your help!
Everything is back to normal and the DCD-2560 is working perfectly!
Thank you everyone for your help!
Bit late, but let me just add that blown motor driver transistors may indicate mechanical issues (gummed-up motor or missing lubrication). These are not uncommon. Problematic motors can often be revived by taking them out and running them at full rated voltage on a lab power supply for a while.