Yes I am a noobie,
I just got 2 Dell flat screen monitors for free, 1503 FP. I was looking to buy a flat panel for my DYI using a OHP. Can I use one of these instead or is stripping the thing not possible?
thanks for any help on this.
I just got 2 Dell flat screen monitors for free, 1503 FP. I was looking to buy a flat panel for my DYI using a OHP. Can I use one of these instead or is stripping the thing not possible?
thanks for any help on this.
Well, I googled "1503fp ffc", and found some references, mainly at the german "diybeamer" site, to the 1503fp, so I'd assume it is strippable. I've got a 1702fp, it strips great, I just needed to extend my ffc cable. I'd assume that the 1503fp is a similar situation, as the user guides are almost identical, but no promises. If you got them for free, it can't really hurt to try to strip one, though, can it (other than a possible waste of your 3 hours)? If it strips, it strips, and if it doesn't, you'll be able to tell by looking at the cables, and should be able to reassemble it. Just be relatively careful.
Superdaveumo here made a great guide to stripping the 1702fp:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65002
I'd assume that the two monitors are similar enough for his guide to at least guide you in the process of stripping it, but then again, maybe not (all I know is, his guide was priceless when I disassembled mine).
One thing of note: when I stripped mine (once again, though, mine is a bit different than yours), I turned it on and thought it was dead: a white bar slowly moved from the left of the screen to the right. I realized that it was actually my Dell monitor's test signal box (turns on when no input is plugged in), stripped of its vertical resolution. Fortunately, Stocker here suggested that I ground my boards: so I soldered some wire to the grounding contacts on my inverter and main board, and it worked. So just make sure you ground it all...just in case you didn't know, maybe you do, but I know I didn't. 🙂
Hope this helps a bit
Superdaveumo here made a great guide to stripping the 1702fp:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65002
I'd assume that the two monitors are similar enough for his guide to at least guide you in the process of stripping it, but then again, maybe not (all I know is, his guide was priceless when I disassembled mine).
One thing of note: when I stripped mine (once again, though, mine is a bit different than yours), I turned it on and thought it was dead: a white bar slowly moved from the left of the screen to the right. I realized that it was actually my Dell monitor's test signal box (turns on when no input is plugged in), stripped of its vertical resolution. Fortunately, Stocker here suggested that I ground my boards: so I soldered some wire to the grounding contacts on my inverter and main board, and it worked. So just make sure you ground it all...just in case you didn't know, maybe you do, but I know I didn't. 🙂
Hope this helps a bit
Hi milihpen,
Thanks for the info! I'll have a look at the link you sent. Like you said they are probably the same so I can follow the instructions for your model monitor.
If the FFC cables are too short (if that is the right name for them) where should I look online for longer ones?
Thanks again!
Thanks for the info! I'll have a look at the link you sent. Like you said they are probably the same so I can follow the instructions for your model monitor.
If the FFC cables are too short (if that is the right name for them) where should I look online for longer ones?
Thanks again!
I used mouser.com for my ffc cables. They're pretty cheap, significantly less than $10, and came very fast. I'll try to get you, later today, the exact page I found my items from, because their site has so much stuff, it's hard to know if you're getting the right thing. 🙂
sorry for the delay. The parts at mouser.com that I ordered were these:
for the ffc cable itself, I got this part number:
538-21020-0215
and for the connector, I got this one (I believe it was this one, but there are too many styles of zif connectors for me to tell):
538-52559-2072
However, those are for a 20-pin cable. I don't know what your monitor has, so you might want to make sure that your ffc cable (if it IS a problem) is 20-pins before you go out and buy these. If it's x pins, then get the x pin version of the parts I listed.
Good luck. 🙂
for the ffc cable itself, I got this part number:
538-21020-0215
and for the connector, I got this one (I believe it was this one, but there are too many styles of zif connectors for me to tell):
538-52559-2072
However, those are for a 20-pin cable. I don't know what your monitor has, so you might want to make sure that your ffc cable (if it IS a problem) is 20-pins before you go out and buy these. If it's x pins, then get the x pin version of the parts I listed.
Good luck. 🙂
stage area on OHP big enough?
I just bought an OHP, the stage area is 10x10, is that enough for the lcd I'm stripping out of the 15" monitor??
I just bought an OHP, the stage area is 10x10, is that enough for the lcd I'm stripping out of the 15" monitor??
Hello Everyone,
I just stripped my monitor, everything went well but a 20 pin cable to the left is too short. Does anyone make an extender for this?
I just stripped my monitor, everything went well but a 20 pin cable to the left is too short. Does anyone make an extender for this?
Pacific: those FFC cables I was talking about before are what that 20-pin cable is! 🙂 Go to mouser.com and look for those two part numbers I gave you. Those should work just right.
Congrats on a succesful stripping. Have you plugged it in yet?
Also, I think your OHP might be a bit small. If I did my math right, a 15" screen is 9" tall by 12" wide.
Congrats on a succesful stripping. Have you plugged it in yet?
Also, I think your OHP might be a bit small. If I did my math right, a 15" screen is 9" tall by 12" wide.
Oops. I actually didn't get the 538-52559-2072 part: I got the 538-52745-2090 part. Either will probably work though, and the one that I got, I actually had to kind of jerry-rig because two ffc cables were hard to fit into it with the fastener on. But ya, just for clarification.
The other one I mentioned (the cable), part number 538-21020-0215, is correct.
The other one I mentioned (the cable), part number 538-21020-0215, is correct.
ohp
Miliphen,
Thanks, the cables you mentioned are 6" I think, right?
I need at least 12", unless I'm way off base here. Guess I'll look for a OHP that has a 12x12 screen then.
I need the cables before I get the thing pluggd in!
Miliphen,
Thanks, the cables you mentioned are 6" I think, right?
I need at least 12", unless I'm way off base here. Guess I'll look for a OHP that has a 12x12 screen then.
I need the cables before I get the thing pluggd in!
No problem. Yes, those are 6" cables
Sorry about your cable situation. I guess you could string together 2 6"s, or maybe 2 6"s and add in a 3". I've heard that if you get too long, though, it may not work (because the signals are so fast and susceptible to interference or something?).
Also, regarding that OHP, make sure that you can fit a full 9" *12" object on it, as on many OHP's, the corners of the fresnel are cut off, making your image not square. Sorry, that was a really bad explanation. LOL
Sorry about your cable situation. I guess you could string together 2 6"s, or maybe 2 6"s and add in a 3". I've heard that if you get too long, though, it may not work (because the signals are so fast and susceptible to interference or something?).
Also, regarding that OHP, make sure that you can fit a full 9" *12" object on it, as on many OHP's, the corners of the fresnel are cut off, making your image not square. Sorry, that was a really bad explanation. LOL
I might get away with 6" cables, does the panel sit face down on the ohp or up, not sure because of the mirrors, then I'll know how to position the boards before I attach the extender. Hope that makes sence, stupid question I know!
I believe in most of the OHP diagrams I've seen, the bottom board sits at an angle (in other words, not perpendicular to the LCD panel, but not straight out from the bottom either. kind of like:
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The two back?slashes representing the bottom controller board. I don't see why you couldn't have it perpendicular to the board, however. Although, maybe that might put too much strain on those fragile connecting cables. You'd probably have to reinforce it really nice if you did that.
I, personally, use a box, and have my board perpendicular to the panel. This helps me with airflow, and also shortens the needed length of the ffc cable.
|
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\
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The two back?slashes representing the bottom controller board. I don't see why you couldn't have it perpendicular to the board, however. Although, maybe that might put too much strain on those fragile connecting cables. You'd probably have to reinforce it really nice if you did that.
I, personally, use a box, and have my board perpendicular to the panel. This helps me with airflow, and also shortens the needed length of the ffc cable.
Hi Milihpen,
This is the stage I'm in, as you know this is the backof the board, to the left is the ribbon I have to extend.
I bought another OHP, it has a stage of 11.5x11.5 way better than the one I took back, it's a 3000 lumin-2bulb.
I also ordered the cables you suggested, just gotta wait now!
Hope the .jpg shows up.
Hey pacificnw.
Your image doesn't appear to be working...dunno why exactly.
That 11.5*11.5 might crop your image a tad, but maybe not. probably wouldn't look too bad if it did. I guess you'll have to try.
On another note, hopefully someone more knowledgeable responds to this, as I don't have that much expertise in OHP's, but I believe 3,000 lumens may be too weak for a projector. The average 400w mh puts out around 30,000 lumens, but then again, a lot of that is lost before it even reaches the first fresnel. I guess you'll have to try and see if it's bright enough.
Your image doesn't appear to be working...dunno why exactly.
That 11.5*11.5 might crop your image a tad, but maybe not. probably wouldn't look too bad if it did. I guess you'll have to try.
On another note, hopefully someone more knowledgeable responds to this, as I don't have that much expertise in OHP's, but I believe 3,000 lumens may be too weak for a projector. The average 400w mh puts out around 30,000 lumens, but then again, a lot of that is lost before it even reaches the first fresnel. I guess you'll have to try and see if it's bright enough.
Milihpen,
I recieved the cables and connectors the ones you sent me the part numbers for, thanks again, they are the right ones.
How did you get 2 ribbons in one connector, how did you rig it!
I recieved the cables and connectors the ones you sent me the part numbers for, thanks again, they are the right ones.
How did you get 2 ribbons in one connector, how did you rig it!
pacificnw said:
Not easily. 🙂 I ended up having to take out that little clasp that you pull out to put the cable in, and push back in to hold it in place. With that gone, I had enough room for both cables (you might have to wiggle them a bit (gently), but they'll eventually be seated securely). Then, to keep them from slipping out, I hot-glued the two cables together about an inch above the clasp. That kept them from wiggling, and pretty much held them in place.
Not the best option, but unfortunately, Mouser doesn't carry the optimal connector (I believe it's the "vertical" one, but not sure) anymore.
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