Hi all,
I discovered, during the week, that one of my Definitive Subs had stopped working. I rarely use them unless I'm watching DVDs these days, so the fact one had stopped working, wasn't recognised. I have 2 such subs and I use them as 'stands' for my Paradigm studio 40s in a 'quasi' home theatre setup.
I have opened up the sub and done a few rudimentary tests:
On the main PCB there are a pair of circa 3W resistors that become very hot when the AC power is applied. 2 adjacent resistors (1/2W) show signs of overheating as does the junction between the 3W resistors.
Unfortunately in SA we have had 'load shedding' periods for years where we have/don't have power. These have become extreme over the last year or so with only circa 16 hours electricity available over the course of a day. The timing of these 'outages' varies from day to day (as they are 'rotated') so switching electronics on and off when the power is expected to go off/turn on, is not a sensible approach. Thus these subs have remained on and have been subjected to the power availability (there's a large 'thump' when power is restored - at least when the sub is working).
Suggestions, pros/cons, appreciated.
Thanks
I discovered, during the week, that one of my Definitive Subs had stopped working. I rarely use them unless I'm watching DVDs these days, so the fact one had stopped working, wasn't recognised. I have 2 such subs and I use them as 'stands' for my Paradigm studio 40s in a 'quasi' home theatre setup.
I have opened up the sub and done a few rudimentary tests:
- The 'Auto on/off' light continues to glow whether or not there is any input signal (it's supposed to turn the internal amp off in the absence of any sound)
- I measured the resistance of the 10 inch subwoofer and it's at around 40 Meg Ohm...
On the main PCB there are a pair of circa 3W resistors that become very hot when the AC power is applied. 2 adjacent resistors (1/2W) show signs of overheating as does the junction between the 3W resistors.
Unfortunately in SA we have had 'load shedding' periods for years where we have/don't have power. These have become extreme over the last year or so with only circa 16 hours electricity available over the course of a day. The timing of these 'outages' varies from day to day (as they are 'rotated') so switching electronics on and off when the power is expected to go off/turn on, is not a sensible approach. Thus these subs have remained on and have been subjected to the power availability (there's a large 'thump' when power is restored - at least when the sub is working).
- So the question arises as to whether to; purchase a new driver and carefully check/repair the electronics
- Scrap the lot and buy a new subwoofer
- Build a new active subwoofer and use the existing sub chassis/box (I have a 'spare' stereo 50W amp I could use as a driver in bridge mode I guess).
- Build a passive subwoofer together with an analogue crossover and volume control, using the existing chassis/box
Suggestions, pros/cons, appreciated.
Thanks