Originally posted by chrisb
(now if you really want to see some fur fly, ask "what's the best coupling cap?")
Ok, What's the best coupling ca...... 😀
I'm allured now by the siren song of the tripath for amp projects right now. I figure I'll triode wire the jolida and remove the NFB and that will do for awhile. Maybeeee......
Meanwhile, back on topic, I'm doing a sheet count for the half changs. Using the B20's with that little Dayton tweet that GyChang had luck with. Scott, you stated a 5k x-over. I though most people were using around 9k-12k for their's. Is this room dependant(I guess it's person dependant too)?
Dave, for the B20 you used 3 thinned(50%?) puzzlecoat layers on the main cone and Damar on the whizzer. Is this correct? Then EnAble I guess. After that maybe some phase plugs and then move on to better/other drivers. At least that's the plan now.
gurley123 said:
Ok, What's the best coupling ca...... 😀
I'm allured now by the siren song of the tripath for amp projects right now. I figure I'll triode wire the jolida and remove the NFB and that will do for awhile. Maybeeee......
Meanwhile, back on topic, I'm doing a sheet count for the half changs. Using the B20's with that little Dayton tweet that GyChang had luck with. Scott, you stated a 5k x-over. I though most people were using around 9k-12k for their's. Is this room dependant(I guess it's person dependant too)?
Dave, for the B20 you used 3 thinned(50%?) puzzlecoat layers on the main cone and Damar on the whizzer. Is this correct? Then EnAble I guess. After that maybe some phase plugs and then move on to better/other drivers. At least that's the plan now.
Are you planning on building your own t-amp, or shopping for prebuilt? The Kingrex T20U is no joke, and starting at $249 US, quite a bargain to my mind (you could easily spend more than that on boutique/bling audiosnob approved caps for the Jolida)
I am planning to mod this board in this thread. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=112395 and then build a case for it. The case is what is getting me psyched. I've done some looking around and I think I've come up with something pretty neat. Plus that board is like $20. I know that t-amp probably won't drive the B20's that well but it's for another desktop system I have plans for.
For years I lusted after the boutique audio gear at unattiable prices. Now I want to see how much I can do with the least amount of money. That's why I've decided on the Pio for a starter. It seems to be the value leader at the moment.
For years I lusted after the boutique audio gear at unattiable prices. Now I want to see how much I can do with the least amount of money. That's why I've decided on the Pio for a starter. It seems to be the value leader at the moment.
gurley123 said:for the B20 you used 3 thinned(50%?) puzzlecoat layers on the main cone and Damar on the whizzer. Is this correct? Then EnAble I guess. After that maybe some phase plugs and then move on to better/other drivers. At least that's the plan now.
2 coats PK -- not quite that thin, you don't want it ti sink all the way thru. I used PK on the whizzer too. Standard pattern, but there needs to be an extra ring just under the edge of the whizzer. The row under the whizzer is a REAL pain to do... it is very hard to light it so you can see what you are doing.
I am working on the logistics of the Dayton on the tip of a phase-plug.
dave
gurley123 said:]I am planning to mod this board in this thread. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=112395 and then build a case for it. The case is what is getting me psyched. I've done some looking around and I think I've come up with something pretty neat. Plus that board is like $20. I know that t-amp probably won't drive the B20's that well but it's for another desktop system I have plans for.
My buddy Jesse got one of those and rather liked it. He said he was going to send me one to listen too...
dave
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