That's why good equipment will use a blocking diode or better yet a bridge so AC, DC+ or DC- can be used with it.
FWIW, the only barrel connector I ever use is 5.5/2.1 since it handles the most current and it's dead common. Some of my creations use a 12V/10A brick for power... Round holes are obviously easier to make, too.
FWIW, the only barrel connector I ever use is 5.5/2.1 since it handles the most current and it's dead common. Some of my creations use a 12V/10A brick for power... Round holes are obviously easier to make, too.
That's the guitar pedal world, because they are designed so that plugging in completes the battery circuit.
That's IEC Type A, not to be confused with 5.5/2.5 also named IEC Type A. Brilliant ******* standard.
CUI PP3-002BH (5.5/2.5) and PP3-002AH (5.5/2.1) plugs have served me well, very reliable because of the spring fork contact and very tight fit. Of course best used with the corresponding sockets PJ-080BH, sadly there is no 10A version of that for A-type.
The idea behind A vs B type was that the smaller inner diameter shall be reserved for the higher voltage so as not to kill a device meant for the lower. Whereas vice-versa, when plugging the lower supply to a device needing the higher voltage nothing bad should happen and is not a problem that this connection is unrealible from size difference
Problem is that low/high originally was 5V/12V but now it often is 12V/19V.
Hence we have 12V devices with 2.1 and 2.5mm inner contacts. There should be no 5V devices and supplies with 2.1mm contacts but sure there are exeptions.
The idea behind A vs B type was that the smaller inner diameter shall be reserved for the higher voltage so as not to kill a device meant for the lower. Whereas vice-versa, when plugging the lower supply to a device needing the higher voltage nothing bad should happen and is not a problem that this connection is unrealible from size difference
Problem is that low/high originally was 5V/12V but now it often is 12V/19V.
Hence we have 12V devices with 2.1 and 2.5mm inner contacts. There should be no 5V devices and supplies with 2.1mm contacts but sure there are exeptions.
I'm happy with the 5.5mm/2.1mm barrel, used them for years in my computer boards and they have always been reliable. The 5.5mm/2.1mm is de facto standard and it's easy to find good Power Supplies.... But use a TVS to protect against reverse and over voltage. You can also get some tiny and cheap chips doing the reverse and over voltage protection....
In my opinion, micro USB connectors are crap, easy to break, I buy cables ten at a time, to keep up with my kids breaking the cables when charging their phones....
In my opinion, micro USB connectors are crap, easy to break, I buy cables ten at a time, to keep up with my kids breaking the cables when charging their phones....
USB (standard) connectors are pretty reliable. Ethernet 8P8C connectors can handle relatively high voltage as well, with some current (more as you parallel more positions). Plugs and keystone jacks are pretty cheap.
I'm surprised with the comment slamming micro USB. I have found the entire USB family very reliable. Can't say the same about Lightning connectors though, went through countless Lightning cables for my iphone before I punted it.
Properly made DC barrel connectors of matched size work well... Not the junk though.
I've found many of the plugs have crimped connections and use plastics with a low melting point, soft, etc. So as soon as you solder the tags, the connection becomes loose, and works itself looser over time.
However, I recently bought some plugs from a decent supplier, - sure they were about $1.50 each instead of $1 for 10 - but shockingly, they actually work [emoji28] and I expect they will continue to do so.
I've used the GX12 and GX16 connectors too and can recommend, they're very secure indeed. Even the cheap ones seem relatively well made.
So are the DIN type ones if you can find good quality connectors.
I've found many of the plugs have crimped connections and use plastics with a low melting point, soft, etc. So as soon as you solder the tags, the connection becomes loose, and works itself looser over time.
However, I recently bought some plugs from a decent supplier, - sure they were about $1.50 each instead of $1 for 10 - but shockingly, they actually work [emoji28] and I expect they will continue to do so.
I've used the GX12 and GX16 connectors too and can recommend, they're very secure indeed. Even the cheap ones seem relatively well made.
So are the DIN type ones if you can find good quality connectors.
Full-size and mini USB connectors I've found to be quite reliable. Micro USB has been a bit sloppy for me, perhaps due to the small size.
The SuperSpeed stuff (blue) with the extra chunks, well those are pretty dang tough.