I am attempting to determine whether the C7 is an IRS20957S. If it is not, please inform me. If you have this information, I would appreciate your assistance.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Does the amp function at any level?
I don't know if you have it but search the tutorial files for:
driverICcharacteristics.htm
Basically, you find what various pins are connected to and you can find what virtually any of these drivers are.
Number Of Package Terminals
Terminal that Connects to the Negative Rail
Low-Side 12v Supply
High-Side Positive Supply
Output Terminals
Number of Input Signals
What's the Reference for the Input of the IC
PWM or Audio Input
Does the IC have a Shutdown Terminal
Polarity of Shutdown Signal
Internal Bootstrap Diode
Is the High-Side Driver Section Floating
Is This a Half or Full Bridge Driver IC
Does it Have a Deadtime Terminal
Does it Have On-Board Over-Current Protection
Is the IC used in Self-Oscillating Amps or in Clocked Amps
Does the High-Side B+ need an Auxiliary Supply
I don't know if you have it but search the tutorial files for:
driverICcharacteristics.htm
Basically, you find what various pins are connected to and you can find what virtually any of these drivers are.
Number Of Package Terminals
Terminal that Connects to the Negative Rail
Low-Side 12v Supply
High-Side Positive Supply
Output Terminals
Number of Input Signals
What's the Reference for the Input of the IC
PWM or Audio Input
Does the IC have a Shutdown Terminal
Polarity of Shutdown Signal
Internal Bootstrap Diode
Is the High-Side Driver Section Floating
Is This a Half or Full Bridge Driver IC
Does it Have a Deadtime Terminal
Does it Have On-Board Over-Current Protection
Is the IC used in Self-Oscillating Amps or in Clocked Amps
Does the High-Side B+ need an Auxiliary Supply
You are correct; however, I wanted to determine if anyone has experience with this and the ic. Additionally, I dislike handling the small legs. Barevids informed me that it is most likely the IRS2092, but I should follow the advice you provided. I suppose I will gather the courage to review the datasheet and identify the ic. Once I am completely certain that it is the correct integrated circuit, I will return to share the information in case someone is searching for C7 on this board.
Channels 1, 2, and 3 are functioning properly; however, channel 4 only produces a sound level at one-fourth that of the others. Additionally, the C7 ic for the fourth channel becomes excessively hot.
The 2092 and the 20957 are the likely suspects. The 2092 has audio input. The 20957 has PWM. What does your IC use?
Q: The 2092 and the 20957 are the likely suspects. The 2092 has audio input. The 20957 has PWM. What does your IC use?
A: I checked on channel 3 and it has PWM on pin 15 which is marked VB on both 2092 & 2095.
A: I checked on channel 3 and it has PWM on pin 15 which is marked VB on both 2092 & 2095.
I can confirm with certainty that it is irs2092, without any doubt.
I have repaired a lot of amplifiers with the same design.
If the C7 of channel 4 heats up excessively, start by changing it, but it must be said that it is not necessarily the culprit.
Very often in these amps I have found problems with some 10ohm SMD resistors on the output filter, those that form the RC network of snubbers at the output, their breakage often leads to similar malfunctions or sometimes they do not start the C7 at all.
Check them.
To be safe, change the C7 that has heated up a lot.
Then we can move on to the next step.
I have repaired a lot of amplifiers with the same design.
If the C7 of channel 4 heats up excessively, start by changing it, but it must be said that it is not necessarily the culprit.
Very often in these amps I have found problems with some 10ohm SMD resistors on the output filter, those that form the RC network of snubbers at the output, their breakage often leads to similar malfunctions or sometimes they do not start the C7 at all.
Check them.
To be safe, change the C7 that has heated up a lot.
Then we can move on to the next step.
I replaced the fourth IRS2092 due to overheating; then the third IRS2092 also exhibited excessive heat, while the fourth operated normally. So, I replaced the third IRS2092, and now the second IRS2092 is overheating, the third and fourth functioning properly.
I forgot to mention that I replaced the 10-ohm SMD resistor as well as one of the two 2W 10-ohm through-hole resistors.
Did the replacement of the resistors eliminate the problem instead of the IC replacement?
Is the attached amp close to what you have?
Is the attached amp close to what you have?
Q: Did the replacement of the resistors eliminate the problem instead of the IC replacement?
A: No it didn't.
On the pictures above what do you think it could be or what should I test.
I did remove both CT and CTR and both tested good. All FETS tested good.
A: No it didn't.
On the pictures above what do you think it could be or what should I test.
I did remove both CT and CTR and both tested good. All FETS tested good.
Let's see if MarioRestucci returns in the next day or so. I might be able to get you through it but he might have definitive answers.
Are all channels idling at the same frequency. The amp I posted has a low-level oscillator injecting a sync signal so they all idle at the same frequency. At higher power, the frequencies can vary.
Are all channels idling at the same frequency. The amp I posted has a low-level oscillator injecting a sync signal so they all idle at the same frequency. At higher power, the frequencies can vary.
I just finished repairing a BASSFACE TEAM 500X4D that uses the same design, maybe the same board.
A coincidence?
There is no valid reason that the 2092s heat up excessively when you replace adjacent ones, but I can think that the original C7s have something wrong.
The strange thing is that this board does not use any UCC27511.
Where exactly did you replace it?
Could you take a picture of the entire board?
A coincidence?
There is no valid reason that the 2092s heat up excessively when you replace adjacent ones, but I can think that the original C7s have something wrong.
The strange thing is that this board does not use any UCC27511.
Where exactly did you replace it?
Could you take a picture of the entire board?
As I wrote to you previously, this board does not use UCC27511 also because it has a different pinout and functions, so I had no idea where and how you could have used it.
If you replaced IC9 (ucc27524) then you replaced the driver of the mosfets of the power supply circuit, which has nothing to do with your type of failure.
In any case, we need to clarify a bit, does the power supply work well?
Does it generate dual rail voltages?
If I were you, I would work backwards, that is, you have a problem and you don't know where it starts, but since the 2092 is a very simple circuit, I would start by seeing if its power supplies are present and work correctly.
I recommend, remove all 4 2092s (it would be optimal to also remove the output mosfets, but if you are careful during the various measurements, you can avoid doing so).
You should check if you have +/-5v on pins 1 and 6 (with reference to secondary GND) of all 2092s, then check that there is 12v on pin 12 of each 2092 (with reference to the negative rail).
If these voltages are there, electrically you are in order to work, then there could be problems with the output filters (10ohm resistors both on the zobel network and on the snubbers), be careful of that strange glue that holds the inductors anchored to the PCB, it is sneaky and sometimes corrodes the solder joints of the components detaching them completely.
Check that all SMD diodes near the 2092s are good.
Buffer driver transistors are very difficult to break but not impossible.
Two other important things:
1. even if the 2092 is a very simple circuit, it is very delicate; even just 1 of the 4 fails, it could have failed the other 3, because they are interconnected via the power supplies.
2. why in the photo I see that one of the 2 diodes (1620ct or 1620ctr) is missing? it is vital that they are in the circuit.
If you replaced IC9 (ucc27524) then you replaced the driver of the mosfets of the power supply circuit, which has nothing to do with your type of failure.
In any case, we need to clarify a bit, does the power supply work well?
Does it generate dual rail voltages?
If I were you, I would work backwards, that is, you have a problem and you don't know where it starts, but since the 2092 is a very simple circuit, I would start by seeing if its power supplies are present and work correctly.
I recommend, remove all 4 2092s (it would be optimal to also remove the output mosfets, but if you are careful during the various measurements, you can avoid doing so).
You should check if you have +/-5v on pins 1 and 6 (with reference to secondary GND) of all 2092s, then check that there is 12v on pin 12 of each 2092 (with reference to the negative rail).
If these voltages are there, electrically you are in order to work, then there could be problems with the output filters (10ohm resistors both on the zobel network and on the snubbers), be careful of that strange glue that holds the inductors anchored to the PCB, it is sneaky and sometimes corrodes the solder joints of the components detaching them completely.
Check that all SMD diodes near the 2092s are good.
Buffer driver transistors are very difficult to break but not impossible.
Two other important things:
1. even if the 2092 is a very simple circuit, it is very delicate; even just 1 of the 4 fails, it could have failed the other 3, because they are interconnected via the power supplies.
2. why in the photo I see that one of the 2 diodes (1620ct or 1620ctr) is missing? it is vital that they are in the circuit.
I really appreciate your expertise, and I was thinking along the same lines. I've ordered all the parts I need for the rebuild, including the IRS2092S, diodes, and resistors—everything I might require. It should take two days, but I'm unsure how quickly Digikey ships. If they send it out today, I'm hoping it arrives by Saturday. Perry advised me to focus on one amplifier at a time on diyAudio, but I got a bit impatient and didn't follow that advice, so I apologize for that. I'll pause work on the SFB-8000D until I can fix the AAB-5004D. Thank you all for your support!