Is this not a better one to get? It seems the values both watt and ohm on your suggestion don’t match the specs on my resistor at all.
https://elektronik-lavpris.dk/p154093/kh216-8-1r5-resistor-11w-10-1r5/
I am happy to “measure the rest”. Pretend I’ve never done this before and need to know exactly how to measure the rest.
What values do I check, and how?
I am happy to check all four MF components. What values am I looking for, and how exactly do I measure it?
Do I need to remove each component from the circuit board to measure it?
The component values are stated within the attachment you supplied in your post #14.
I suggest you lift one leg of each component from the board in order to perform the measurement.
You need a multimeter with capacitance and inductance ranges, like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Capacitanc...-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
I suggest you lift one leg of each component from the board in order to perform the measurement.
You need a multimeter with capacitance and inductance ranges, like this one: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Capacitanc...-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
Two inductors are heat stressed - too much power being fed to the crossover.
Two electros are heat stressed - split sleeves - too much power being fed to the crossover.
One film cap has been melted by the resistor next to it - too much power being fed to the crossover.
One resistor has been cooked - too much power being fed to the crossover.
Two electros are heat stressed - split sleeves - too much power being fed to the crossover.
One film cap has been melted by the resistor next to it - too much power being fed to the crossover.
One resistor has been cooked - too much power being fed to the crossover.
As I said, it's really a bit of a mess in there.
All the crossover components must be examined carefully.
Ones that show obvious signs of heat stress should be replaced as a matter of course. Others should have their values checked.
All the crossover components must be examined carefully.
Ones that show obvious signs of heat stress should be replaced as a matter of course. Others should have their values checked.
The resistor is dead. However alot more then a pop from unplugging an ipod or phone would be needed to burn the board like that.
Measure the woofers at the terminals should read about 8 or 4 ohms each.
Measure the woofers at the terminals should read about 8 or 4 ohms each.
Thank you for the answers so far, everyone.
Yes, they are 200W speakers being fed by 780W mono blocks each, it is quite possible they got too much volume, I could smell it the day it happened.
Thanks UserAbuser, I will check each of those components individually: inductors, electros, film cap, resistor. First I need to learn what each one is. I know now what the resistors are. Which one is an electro, which is film cap, which is inductor? I'm willing to learn, just need a little guidance. It's a bit of a mess in there, I am learning. I am happy to begin to understand why my sweet speakers weren't working right. At least it's cooked crossovers and not the woofers, tweeters, etc.
Yes, they are 200W speakers being fed by 780W mono blocks each, it is quite possible they got too much volume, I could smell it the day it happened.
Thanks UserAbuser, I will check each of those components individually: inductors, electros, film cap, resistor. First I need to learn what each one is. I know now what the resistors are. Which one is an electro, which is film cap, which is inductor? I'm willing to learn, just need a little guidance. It's a bit of a mess in there, I am learning. I am happy to begin to understand why my sweet speakers weren't working right. At least it's cooked crossovers and not the woofers, tweeters, etc.
If we assume both crossovers need all new parts, where/how do I find the exact parts? I don't know what store/website to use, how to look up specific parts, or how to replace a specific part if it is no longer made.
Before we delve into the crossover, we should pay more attention to the yellow woven Kevlar bass/midrange driver (which I will simply call the midrange).
Although the midrange measured the expected 4 ohm, this does not exclude the possibility that its voice coil has been heat damaged along with the components in the MF section of the crossover.
A voice coil that has been overheated may have expanded/distorted and now be fouling the magnetic gap in which it should be free to move.
If it has gone out of true, you may hear a scraping sound when you gently push in the cone of the midrange driver using with your thumbs.
Another test would be to connect the midrange driver directly to the output of a spare amplifier to see if it is still capable of producing undistorted music.
Once we are positive that both midrange drivers are working properly, we can turn our attention to rebuilding the crossover.
Although the midrange measured the expected 4 ohm, this does not exclude the possibility that its voice coil has been heat damaged along with the components in the MF section of the crossover.
A voice coil that has been overheated may have expanded/distorted and now be fouling the magnetic gap in which it should be free to move.
If it has gone out of true, you may hear a scraping sound when you gently push in the cone of the midrange driver using with your thumbs.
Another test would be to connect the midrange driver directly to the output of a spare amplifier to see if it is still capable of producing undistorted music.
Once we are positive that both midrange drivers are working properly, we can turn our attention to rebuilding the crossover.
The big black cylinders are the bipolar electrolytic capacitors.
The yellow rectangular blocks are the film capacitors (cylindrical ones are also available).
The coils of wire are the inductors.
Perhaps the Monacor Webshop?
Capacitors, resistors and inductors are all there under the heading of "Electric Components":
https://monacor-webshop.com/product...eaker-systems/electric-components.html?page=1
Outstanding, thank you, happy to proceed. The thumb push test reveals 0 scraping, 0 distortion, and is free to move on both midrange drivers.
I am happy to connect the midrange drivers directly to a spare amplifier output to test them.
How exactly do I do this, just connect the speaker cable from the amp directly to the tabs I tested earlier on the midrange driver?
Which polarity of the speaker wire goes to which tab on the driver? My red/black speaker cable does not correspond to the speaker's internal yellow and green wires to the driver.
Do the drivers need to be connected before I turn the amp on?
Can I do one at a time, or do both drivers need to be hooked up in stereo before I begin?
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do this properly and not break more stuff.
Yes, connect as you have stated.
Polarity wise, just connect both midrange drivers the same way round on each channel when using a stereo test amp.
It is always the case that you should make connections before powering up equipment.
With the midrange drivers hooked up in stereo, you could use the balance control to concentrate your attention on each driver in turn.
Sorry - I just pointed to a place where they have several options. I'm aware that it might not be the exact value. But since you might have more components that might be broken, then you should start by finding all the bad/broken components, and then we make a list of spare-parts to buy 👍
So, like others wrote - find and measure everything - one by one. Then we make a shopping list 🙂
Thanks guys so much for your help so far. We are making progress each day; it is very exciting for me to finally climb the mountain. The thumb-push test revealed both midrange drivers without problem. I will test the drivers directy to an amp tonight. I have ordered an LCR meter, flux cleaner, desoldering braid in preparation for the exciting soldering crash-course ahead. As soon as I have the LCR meter, I will remove/measure all components on both crossovers. I have looked, but have no idea what "wicon inductor" is, it must be different from "air core inductor", since both are listed on the B&W parts list. I'm going to assume both crossovers will have just about the exact same broken parts.
I believe a B&W Wicon inductor is one with a pressed iron powder core - what is known as a ferrite core inductor.
The two large inductors on the left hand side of your crossover image are end disc (rather than ones without end discs) ferrite core inductors.
You can confirm this by referring to your service manual's crossover board layout.
Here's an example of an end disc ferrite (Jantzen call it 'Permite') inductor.:
Thanks for the answer.
Another speaker assembly question, what is the coil of black rubber goo around the wires where they go through a hole in the plywood? My guess is "3m butyl rope caulk"? It is still pliable, looks like a coil of black toothpaste, I guess to seal the sound between the compartments. I will have to remove it to pull all the wires when I remove the crossover. What is it, and where can I get more of it?
Another speaker assembly question, what is the coil of black rubber goo around the wires where they go through a hole in the plywood? My guess is "3m butyl rope caulk"? It is still pliable, looks like a coil of black toothpaste, I guess to seal the sound between the compartments. I will have to remove it to pull all the wires when I remove the crossover. What is it, and where can I get more of it?
3M™ Strip-Calk 08578 or any butyl rubber sealant will do the job.
For example, the above product is around £2.50 for 300 ml.
Progress update. I got 1 crossover out, that alone took me 3 hours.
Here are the values; I tested each one several times:
C1 -32 wtf
C2 55 close
C3 7.03 close
C4 9.85 close
R1 00.5 close
R2 1.6 close
R3 1.6 wtf
R4 1.1 close
L1 1.8 good
L2 .995 good
L3 .712 good
L4 1.007 good
L5 .080 good
What is "acceptable range"? How far off does the number have to be, for the part to need replacing?
Which parts should I replace?
Should I replace the ones that are miscolored or partially melted, even if they measure normal?
L5 measures perfect but is rather squished. Should I replace him?
I'm in Denmark. Where can I order parts from, what is a good brand?
Here are the values; I tested each one several times:
C1 -32 wtf
C2 55 close
C3 7.03 close
C4 9.85 close
R1 00.5 close
R2 1.6 close
R3 1.6 wtf
R4 1.1 close
L1 1.8 good
L2 .995 good
L3 .712 good
L4 1.007 good
L5 .080 good
What is "acceptable range"? How far off does the number have to be, for the part to need replacing?
Which parts should I replace?
Should I replace the ones that are miscolored or partially melted, even if they measure normal?
L5 measures perfect but is rather squished. Should I replace him?
I'm in Denmark. Where can I order parts from, what is a good brand?