A cap coupled phono input is still a sonic disaster. At uV levels electrolytic caps seem to be really non-linear.
At uV levels electrolytic caps seem to be really non-linear.
I have found any cap i had at hand at the input a serious degrader of sound.
And so on. . . .
I agree, I would not prefer a cap in series with the signal, but it was the safest, most expedient option to block dc. The amp is very quiet (less noisy than with a moving magnet cartridge and without the head amp), and sounds good.
And what I know, most modern RIAA Phono amp have no input cap.
This is because they are using dual supply, V+ V- and input at Ground level, 0V.
What I am dealing with is a pre-preamplifier, or a head amp, for a low-output moving coil cartridge. There is no RIAA EQ in it, and it has a dual supply rail (V+, V-).
I got it used for about $10 a few years ago, and just recapped it and replaced the gain switch. Now that I know it works, I will probably replace the NP electrolytic (Nichicon ES) caps with 10 uf Blackgate N, or something like that, and call it good for now (space is limiting for a film cap). The input cap may be unecessary, but I'm not sure, and don't want any DC going to my cartridge.
Thanks for the interest and help!
Hafler dh 101
Tested an estate sale dh 101 preamp- everything works good except for phono2. Any ideas what could be wrong.
Tested an estate sale dh 101 preamp- everything works good except for phono2. Any ideas what could be wrong.
There's just a switch, so clean the contacts, and check the connections between the RCA jacks and the phono PC-4 board.
https://hafler.com/pdf/archive/DH-101_preamp_man.pdf
https://hafler.com/pdf/archive/DH-101_preamp_man.pdf