Hello everyone,
As far as i know the dB//efficiancy of tow drivers in one cabinet schuld be close to each other? Culd i artificialy decreas one drivers dB reating in order to match them?😕
Culd tow drivers be dB-matched via. the cross over ?
Or simply by adding a series resitsor in order to lower the dB raiting?
In my example are tow drivers with 83dB and 90dB.
wuld like to know if using drivers like those together wuld make sense?
As far as i know the dB//efficiancy of tow drivers in one cabinet schuld be close to each other? Culd i artificialy decreas one drivers dB reating in order to match them?😕
Culd tow drivers be dB-matched via. the cross over ?
Or simply by adding a series resitsor in order to lower the dB raiting?
In my example are tow drivers with 83dB and 90dB.
wuld like to know if using drivers like those together wuld make sense?
Thanks verry useful,
One more question: Do drivers need to have the same Impedance?
But impeadenc matshing tow drivers is simple right?😕
just add an non inductive series resistor wich add´s up with the speaker impeadenc to the desired value?
By thanks have a nice day
One more question: Do drivers need to have the same Impedance?
But impeadenc matshing tow drivers is simple right?😕
just add an non inductive series resistor wich add´s up with the speaker impeadenc to the desired value?
By thanks have a nice day
A resistor will have the same resistance at differing frequencies, a driver has an impedance that changes with frequency, not "simple".
Dropping 7 dB of high frequency driver's level to match a low frequency driver is not a problem, the reverse would be.
There is also the issue of voltage sensitivity versus efficiency, one watt/1meter requires using a different voltage for each nominal impedance, 2 volts for 4 ohm, 2.83v for 8 ohm, 4 volts for 16 ohms, etc.
Some manufacturers use 2.83 volts regardless of impedance, which inflates the sensitivity of a 4 ohm driver by 3dB.
Dropping 7 dB of high frequency driver's level to match a low frequency driver is not a problem, the reverse would be.
There is also the issue of voltage sensitivity versus efficiency, one watt/1meter requires using a different voltage for each nominal impedance, 2 volts for 4 ohm, 2.83v for 8 ohm, 4 volts for 16 ohms, etc.
Some manufacturers use 2.83 volts regardless of impedance, which inflates the sensitivity of a 4 ohm driver by 3dB.
It is common for the tweeter to have a higher sensitivity (dB/W/m) than the woofer, in which case it can be attenuated to match the woofer by using a single resistor or an L pad arrangement of two resistors.
Pairings where the woofer is more sensitive than the tweeter are best avoided.
Pad down the more sensitive driver, or consider bi-amplification, where you can et the amps' gains separately.
First answer is no, you could use a 4 ohm tweeter with an 8 ohm woofer.
Second answer is only add a series resistor to attenuate a tweeter. Do not do this with a woofer as lots of power will be wasted as heat in the resistor.
Don't hesitate to tell us more about your project.
We may be able to give more targeted help if you give full details of your two drivers.
We may be able to give more targeted help if you give full details of your two drivers.
I´m building a small t-line(it´s the third one; but the first time i try to actualy desing it acording to calculations)
Originaly I wanted to have a full-range driver, but the Dayton Audio ND65-4/8 (technikaly it is a fullrange driver) fits my size requirements and wuld enable me to extend the low end down to 60Hz but at the cost of poor high´s wich led me to thinking why not make a dual driver Speaker wich lead to this thread.
Mid-Base:
Dayton Audio ND65-8/4
View attachment Dayton Audio ND65-4.pdf
View attachment Dayton Audio ND65-8.pdf
As fore the tweeters i´m eyebaling with:
1.Dayton Audio PTMini-6 (my favurite, Planar, not to expencive)
View attachment pdf_Dayton Audio_PTMini-6_1.pdf
2.Monacor RBT-56(i like the look a lot; more expencife)
View attachment pdf_monacor_RBT-65_1.pdf
3.HiVi T20-8 (8Ohms)
View attachment T20-8.pdf
Peerless OC25SC65-04 (no Faceplate; shielded, more expencife; "bad off axis")
Dayton Audio ND16FA-4 (just because it´s from the same manufakturer)
Peerless OC16SC04-04 (no Faceplate, not to expencife;"bad off axis")
If you have suggestions on what tweeter to use let me know😱.
Or in generel any information wich might be useful fore me😉
Link to the original Thread (but i guess there are no inzeresting/useful information´s for you)
small speaker driver for a T-line any suggestions ?
thanks
have a nice day
Originaly I wanted to have a full-range driver, but the Dayton Audio ND65-4/8 (technikaly it is a fullrange driver) fits my size requirements and wuld enable me to extend the low end down to 60Hz but at the cost of poor high´s wich led me to thinking why not make a dual driver Speaker wich lead to this thread.
Mid-Base:
Dayton Audio ND65-8/4
View attachment Dayton Audio ND65-4.pdf
View attachment Dayton Audio ND65-8.pdf
As fore the tweeters i´m eyebaling with:
1.Dayton Audio PTMini-6 (my favurite, Planar, not to expencive)
View attachment pdf_Dayton Audio_PTMini-6_1.pdf
2.Monacor RBT-56(i like the look a lot; more expencife)
View attachment pdf_monacor_RBT-65_1.pdf
3.HiVi T20-8 (8Ohms)
View attachment T20-8.pdf
Peerless OC25SC65-04 (no Faceplate; shielded, more expencife; "bad off axis")
Dayton Audio ND16FA-4 (just because it´s from the same manufakturer)
Peerless OC16SC04-04 (no Faceplate, not to expencife;"bad off axis")
If you have suggestions on what tweeter to use let me know😱.
Or in generel any information wich might be useful fore me😉
Link to the original Thread (but i guess there are no inzeresting/useful information´s for you)
small speaker driver for a T-line any suggestions ?
thanks
have a nice day
Not sure about your situation, but most likely the answer is no.
The efficiency or sensitivity ratings of the drivers are usually given for 2pi / half space, assuming an infinite baffle. However, in the majority of all speakers out there the woofer will see 4pi / full space at low frequencies. The woofer therefore needs to be twice as loud as the tweeter, i.e., you'd need 6 dB more from the woofer.
As the "average woofer" is usually not 6 dB more efficient than the "average tweeter", tweeters usually have some resistors to adjust the levels.
OK, I did ask for more detail! 😀
I'll stick to the Dayton examples for simplicity.
ND65-8 ohm full range has sensitivity 80.8dB (@2.83V/m)
ND65-4 ohm full range has sensitivity 83dB (@2.83V/m)
PTMini-6 ohm planar tweeter has sensitivity 90db (@1W/m)
ND16FA-4 ohm soft dome tweeter has sensitivity 93dB (@2.83V/m)
As long as the tweeter has a higher sensitivity than the main driver, you will have the ability to attenuate the tweeter to match the level of the full range driver. A lot will depend on your crossover design.
Other than that, I have no suggestions on which of your six tweeters to use.
Maybe mbrennwa can elaborate further.
I'll stick to the Dayton examples for simplicity.
ND65-8 ohm full range has sensitivity 80.8dB (@2.83V/m)
ND65-4 ohm full range has sensitivity 83dB (@2.83V/m)
PTMini-6 ohm planar tweeter has sensitivity 90db (@1W/m)
ND16FA-4 ohm soft dome tweeter has sensitivity 93dB (@2.83V/m)
As long as the tweeter has a higher sensitivity than the main driver, you will have the ability to attenuate the tweeter to match the level of the full range driver. A lot will depend on your crossover design.
Other than that, I have no suggestions on which of your six tweeters to use.
Maybe mbrennwa can elaborate further.