It's the only way to do it like the theater!! Timbre matching and all!! I'll show you guys the whole system when I'm don't if your interested. I have a powermaster 2000 running 5 channels each 400watts at 8 ohm and 1000watts at 2ohm. Rbh front stage and two rbh in walls for the rears. Then I'm building this sucker for the sub
Got the primer on now it's just waiting for paint and then the final touches
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I just realize I never showed you guys the dayton driver I have that it's going in this cabinet.
Mmmm driver looking sweet. Pepsi can? Were you getting some bass-driven fizziness into it? hahaha!
ALL the sugar!!! And twice the caffeine!! That's what I need to stay up late tonight to finish it.
I really will try to paint it with a nice sprayer tonight. I decided on going with a nice satin black paint mixed in a gallon. Not the stupid spray paints. I'll let it dry then I can wire it stuff it mount the driver and be done.
The only problem is I ordered the binding posts from parts express and they won't be here till next Tuesday[emoji24] it's killing me.
I really will try to paint it with a nice sprayer tonight. I decided on going with a nice satin black paint mixed in a gallon. Not the stupid spray paints. I'll let it dry then I can wire it stuff it mount the driver and be done.
The only problem is I ordered the binding posts from parts express and they won't be here till next Tuesday[emoji24] it's killing me.
Whenever I can't find a terminal, I just drill a hole small enough to pass the wire through and put a little glue to seal it up. Then, when you get the terminal, just cut the hole for it where you already drilled 🙂
Yes I have thought of that. To get the wire out I have to unscrew the driver again weakening the screw holes. I would just like to screw it once and leave it
If that was a worry for you, you should have put in nut inserts before gluing it all together.
Yeah I know about the nut inserts. What i should have used was a fetching jasper jig so that my holes were perfect. right now they are just a hair on the big side so i need to angle the screws out. thats why i don't want to unscrew them again. the nut inserts don't fit as of right now. i bought some very big teethed sheetrock screw/anchors to fasten it with. it should work fine but i still don't want to unscrew it again.
Oh lawd, I would have re-cut the fronts, those drivers are pretty heavy and fairly strong, I know, I've got two of them myself 🙂
Hopefully the MDF won't come apart over time.
like i said its just a hair on the big side. it fits fine. I just hope it doesn't leak air out the front. if it does i'm going to scrap the whole damn thing and start over. i didn't cut the fronts out i let someone I trusted cut them out and i'm a little upset over it. but i'm hoping it will be fine. It looks like it will be fine. but you never know until you give it a go.
The two clearance holes in the MDF tab (which could be made out of plywood FWIW) will allow the insert to "float" before the tab is finally screwed in tight. This gives you more play to center the driver screws just in case you are a bit off somewhere.
1355A170 from McMaster-Carr would look pretty nifty.
Obviously don't let the tab screws poke through the front otherwise it will do bad things to the gasket under the mounting flange. You can seal the hole with silicone caulk, epoxy, or even white glue after everything is aligned and tightened, but don't do it until you're sure everything is dead-on.
I drew the tab screws as countersunk/flat-head, but you should use screws that AREN'T for counter-sinks. You don't want any sort of centering action when you tighten the screws.
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Hey thanks ill look into that. I got the final coat of primer on tonight. Its just drying now me and a buddy picked up some flat black paint at Lowes for like 9 bucks and then I'm going to do a final poly urathane is going to look nice but nothing fancy. I'm more excited about how its going to sound
Ultimax can handle more. And I got it for $150 shipped so at that point I was like ummmm yeah its a no brainer. I really liked the stereo integrity specs but found some opposing arguments to it. I'm sure the ultimax has some too but after I paid 150 i couldnt be happier. If I see it that low again I might pick up another
The Ultimax is a better driver. It has lots of copper in the motor with really low inductance. You got the right driver and will be really happy with the results
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